SkiBumBrian

++ on distributor. My first thought when I was reading the post and not the first time I have confronted that problem. One thing I don't know about the Pathy (yet) is what controls A/F mix on cold starts. Another possibility.

Yeah, I hear ya. I just can't justify even 20 bucks when you only need every few years and one more thing to clutter the garage...

I have always hated having to buy a pump just to change diff gear oil, T-case fluid or any other inaccessible fill holes... Made this today in about 3 minutes in expectation of changing my T-case fluid. Looked so good I left it for now but thought someone might like this idea or at least give them a giggle! Wasn't it Mae West that said "Just put your lips together and blow..

Just an update, maybe just thoughts. After some time now I cant find a thing wrong or worn on this Pathy. I was a bit concerned with the 700 dollar price tag and the fact that the PO really had no maintenance records and a worse memory, all he could say was "I've changed the oil every 3000 miles since it was new"... OK. He could not remember when (or if) the T-belt was done (did it, the belt looked new), the exterior was badly oxidized, but straight. The windows had sooo much hard water staining that NOTHING would take it off, vinegar, Lime Away, CLR, Tile cleaner, nothing worked. Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper has them looking sparkly clear (not kidding). Crawling around underneath I could see no signs of contact off road, no scrapes, dents, nothing. It all looks pristine, no rust, even all the fasteners are still free to the turn of a wrench. I found the sticker on the diff, LSD. Awesome. Checked the gear oil, full and looked and felt fresh. Even when I drained the tranny and installed the cooler the fluid was a bit dark but smelled fresh and was still purple. All the rubber bushings underneath are in tact, look good and have good resilience. Got home today and decided I was gonna change the T-case fluid. Bought the ATF, crawled under and loosened the fill plug and some fluid came out (my driveway is not perfectly level)and it look and felt brand new. Buttoned it up. There were a few "Chico Nissan" maintenance stickers on the inside of the windshield which was a good sign but without some invoices they are just stickers... Now my only question is how did he get 111K miles on this thing with no visible signs of wear? I am beginning to think I really scored. Oh, there is one thing. There is a rattle behind the dash, sorta sounds like it is coming out of the defrost vent. Wish I would have noticed it when I replaced the voltage regulator. Anybody got any ideas?

Isn't that the same area that gets filled with pine needles, leaves and crap that can start a fire on the fan resistors? I haven't opened mine up yet but will in the near future to see how much stuff has accumulated in the last 22 years....

Could be a ground issue. Some systems have.a floating ground, some don't. I have no idea about the Pathy speaker system but you may find a schematic or block diagram in the FSM for your rig. Look on the main page do download your manual.

Cool! Thanks a lot. Looks like another trip to P&P next week. I knew there had to be an easier way....

The mount looked factory but this is considerably more substantial than off the other Exploders. I am guessing factory upgrade? I saw no in or out so I won't worry about feed and return, barbs are pointing down so not worrying about air pockets either...

here it is. it is installed now.

Here is the cooler I found today at Pick&Pull. It does not look stock of the other ones that I saw, the others were tube and fin types. Is this aftermarket? There is no thing as too big right? It is 11"X71/2"... If Mount it upright I want return at top? How about mounting?

Hey guys, I went to Pick&Pull and got a tranny cooler. Most of the Exploders had a little tube and fin cooler but I found a one that had a pretty big plate cooler. Score. But when I got to a JGC to yard out the springs, it looks like a PITA. Can I take off the bottom capture for the spring, use a spring compressor and take it out that way? Other than that it looks like I have to get into the engine compartment and disassemble half of the crap in there to get to the top mount and release it that way. Before I BMA trying to get these springs I wanted to ask the pros if there was an easy way. After I clean up this cooler I will post a pic of it.

Hardware for a cabinet latch (magnet and plate) from your local home improvement store would work well too.

Thanks! After I spring the rear end and preload more(or reindex) I will have them do the alignment .

Brand new tires(on the front) came with the 700 dollar deal..... Only went up an inch, if that. Just wanted to try out the procedure. Suspension was flat and even when I started, I didn't want to go up too much until I got the rear springs. Just looked it up on Pick&Pull website, springs are 21 bucks a piece and a tranny cooler off a Exploder for 17......

Yeah, I read that. I haven't even driven it yet so I can't wait to see how it feels. I had a very slight ( almost unnoticeable) shimmy at freeway speeds. I hear most alignment places can't get Pathys right anyway...

Thanks! Just adjusted the TBs today, don't know how much adjustment is left but took it up an inch. There are several JGCs at the local P&P so will be yarding out some springs soon. It looks like this thing never saw a rock, not a dent, nick, scrape underneath. I look forward to using all this new knowledge I am gleaning from everyone here. Thanks all!!!

Nice. I am gonna head to P&P and see what I can find. Just bought my Pathy and tranny seems fine but want to flush and replace filter. Might as well bypass cooler at the same time.... I love these forums!

Auto. It shifts smooth and reverse feels good but I still wanna throw a new filter in it and new fluid. I'll try the JB Weld just for kicks, gives me something to post

700.00 but whose counting.... I think I am gonna like this truck!

I bought this Pathy for 700 bucks. Seems like a great deal, clean inside and out, motor sounded healthy and drives fine. The gauges didn't work and from some info I found on here I replaced the voltage regulator behind the dash, replaced the broken door handle, corner running light up front, all taken off the '90 D21 I had ripped off 2 weeks earlier and brought back by the CHP with a blown out clutch plate, windows broken, graffiti all over the interior, door panels ripped off to get to the speakers, etc. I sold it as parts for 400.00. The PO couldn't remember when the TB was done last so I replaced it along with the WP, thermostat, bypass hose..... So everything is working well except the rear windows don't roll up and down. You can hear the motor doing its job but regulator not attached to window. I took one apart and found that the tab that is captured in the regulator had broken out of its slot. I know the regulators are pretty cheap but I was thinking some creative JB Weld would work. Anybody tried to fix this issue without buying new regulators?

Thanks Kingman !

I hate starting new threads when the info is already available but I have searched the forums and Google to no avail.. I just bought a '91 Pathy with a V6. I smogged it the other day and it passed with flying colors, that tells me the engine is fairly healthy, right? (Ilive in California). The PO let the TB go for 40K past it's recommended change but just got that done. I was wanting to do a compression test but I can't find the info anywhere telling me the PSI numbers. Anybody wanna fill me in?

Right on... I will do a search for the regulator on fleabay. After I get the real important stuff done that will be next on the list... Hey Trog, we will do some roads soon! I'll PM my e addy and #....

OK. I did a search and couldn't find it, so forgive me. I know that my issue with the fuel gauge and water temp gauge no working is probably the voltage regulator behind the dash, I just need some help on how to access it. New to the whole Pathfinder thing but wanna breathe some life back into her...