SkiBumBrian

Actually those rims look pretty good with your body color. Just start checking the junk yards for other stuff you need, it is amazing what you can find and how much you can save!

I replaced my piece of hose without removing or loosening either side of the fuel rail, just a bit of ingenuity and patience is involved. Performed the whole process with a Phillips screwdriver and a razor knife.....Ooops! throw a pair of curved needle nose pliers in that mix too.

Pay no attention to the gauge, what is the true fuel mileage?

They are West Lake ATs. I had never heard of them until recently and now they are all over it seems.... They seem quiet enough on road and haven't really been able to judge them off road yet but I was intrigued by the sidewalls. Any one knows about them chime in!

I usually run mine to about 1/8th of a tank before I fill up so I have no idea if the light works or not but it usually takes about 14-15 gals. If I let it go to where the needle hits E it takes 16-16.5 gals. I guess there is another 4-5 gals in there somewhere...

Seems like a fun thread! I am so out of touch with the new tread designs it helps me learn some too.... I was gonna spring for some BFG ATs but decided I would wait until I go to 33s and that wont happen until I get Thorleys, exhaust, etc. so I found these. They were a good deal and I kinda like to side bite wedges. Anybody seen these yet? I see them advertised a lot lately in my area...

Just like a hot knife through butter..... Nice!

I first replaced the hose and used the same clamps, still leaked when cold. Had to get 2 new clamps and all was good....Oh, 89Rotary, I did it at work, Shhh!

Just dealt with this exact issue, it was the piece of rubber fuel line in the engine compartment left of the distributor connecting the fuel rails.... Bad clamp was leaking.

Finally got around to stripping the complete front end I got from Heloflyboy when he did his SAS. I had already used the UCA's, the rear springs and shocks,panhard drop bracket and the Sway-A-Way torsion bars but the rest has just been sitting in the garage for a few months. Now everything is in bins and ready for replacement parts and it all looks in awesome shape.... All that stuff for 200 bucks! Thanks Heloflyboy!

I think all of that is controlled by the ECU, isn't it? I think there is an idle troubleshooting flowchart in the FSM, available in the Garage section......

Pg. 69 in the FSM (engine mechanical). All bolts in a center out sequence to 22 ft. lbs. then to 58 ft. lbs., loosen all bolts, again to 22 ft.lbs. With angle wrench 80-85 degrees clockwise. No angle wrench torque to 54-61 ft. lbs.

I found some fluid dripping from my skid plate the other day. I pulled the skid plate off and found the rubber hose connecting the tranny to the cooler had failed. Fixed in 10 minutes. Moral of the story? Pull your skid plate and look around, you'll find the issue....

I like the curved ends.... Wish I could find one in the states!

Yeah, I know a lot of those are just bolted together and you could knock them off with a good kick but I wanted to use one (maybe an old Manik if I could find one)as a base and do my own mounting, gusseting, bracing etc. The ARBs are awesome but REALLY expensive and they look heavy as hell.... Thanks for the heads up, maybe when you do get rid of it it might give me a reason to visit family in Mt. Vernon..

Hey cvdloc, I like that push/brush guard you have.... Who makes that one and do you know if it is still available somewhere?

You can usually get an easy out to bite with just a ratchet and some pressure. If there is enough room the stripped nut/bolt extractors work well too. In a pinch take a chisel in with you and make a slot in the allen head for a screwdriver or impact (better)

Those V-bars look pretty awesome, I might have to pick up a pair of those. I carry both chains and cables. It all depends on how you use your "traction device". Big beefy chains give the best traction but are heavy and subject to the centrifugal forces of said weight and normally don't handle much speed. Yes cables can break just like chains can but they are cheap, fit tighter, are lighter and handle speed much better. Like I said it is all how you use them...

If you are going to travel on plowed highways, roads, etc. that are not deep snow and travelling at speed the diamond pattern cable chains are awesome, available at Schwabby. For off road, deep snow real chains are the best, IMHO.

Nuttin' big, just found some old Manik tail light guards and had to try them out... Thinking about modding a Smitty built double tube front bumper for the back, Flip it over and you got a license plate notch!!

I just put this on my "follow" list too. Gorman is about 1K miles round trip for me, not including wheelin' but if the timing is right.....

I will set up the email to post to but it won't go far with just a few submissions!!

Thanks. That previous post answered my question well. Since I have a 91 I am safe in assuming I have the small taper... Thanks again!

I am ready to spring for the Grassroots center link. Is there an easy way to determine which I have before I order? I think '92 and before is the smaller taper but I just wanna make sure... Thanks

If you wanna see kinda how the subs and voting work, watch the slideshow I made for the last competition. I know there are not a lot of motorcycle junkies here (judging from an earlier post) but it gives you an idea of the process. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqoBHAq1vYo