SkiBumBrian

I feel pretty dumb then pulling the forward mount off.... Geez

The 3 bolts that secure the torsion bar to the lca. Gotta remove them to replace the bars right?

I want to shoot a Nissan engineer. Everything about this truck has been straight forward until I decided to install the Sway-a-Way torsion bars tonight. Who was the DMF that thought putting some blind (might as well be) bolts behind the LCA for the forward mounts of the torsion bar? How ****ing stupid is that? Something that should have taken an hour or so had me working with a trouble light trying to hold this ****ing bolt head to secure the forward torsion mount. I wanna find this guy and stick his little nip fingers in there and pinch them off for good measure. Don't get me wrong, I lived in Japan for 6 years and as a people I love them but this guy has to go

Lotsa guys here from Western WA. Just check out the members map and PM a few. I spent many years in the Mt. Vernon/ Burlington area so I am sure I could come up with a mailing address in a pinch.....

Well, after going the JGC spring route and pushing the limits of the stock torsion bars and the ball joints I figured it was time to do things right. Trogdor hooked me up with Heloflyboy and I bought all his old suspension stuff. It is all in really go shape with less than 10K on it but he went SAS as we all know! So this morning was my time to do the swaps. I swapped out the UCA's, I was short one front RS5000 shock so I am gonna wait to install the idler arm bracket until my front shocks come. The JGC spring idea is OK but the way they are cut they really don't seat right and kinda wanna spring in an arc so they now have been replaced with the 4x4 Parts 3" lift heavy duty springs. A bit of a wrestle getting them on but I did it. Installed the RS5000 shocks and the Panhard rod drop down bracket and got the rear end back on the ground. I still have to install the 2 stage Sway-A-Way torsion bars but no rush, I kinda wanna see how it feels with the stockers on there before I swap them out so I can make a comparison. Here is a pic from this morning after I finished. Maybe looks like I should crank another 3/4 -1" more in the front? Everyone have a good weekend!

Smartass!! (actually it was pretty funny....)

Sorry, gotta vote for the articulation king, Heloflyboy.

Welcome Sudo......can I have your rear legos? lol

Well Heloflyboy just sold me all his old suspension stuff since his SAS killer rebuild. The whole IFS with aftermarket uca's, Sway-A-Way torsion bars and the needed parts from Calmini to strengthen the steering system. He also included some rear springs (look MUCH beefier, more coils, etc. than the JGC coils I got at P&P). I look forward to the weather cooling down so I can get to wrenching. Much thanks to Heloflyboy for the great deal and Trogdor for steering me his direction. Awesome guys!

I think we should all take a knee, bow our heads, and admit defeat to Heloflyboy......Ludicrous speed !!!!

C'mon Addrian, that pic is AWESOME!!!!

No AVG IE Just slow to load on IPhone and to some extent the 'puter the last few days...Oops. I guess the phone would be Safari, wouldn't it? It.is the worst , some times 1-3 mins...

Good idea ahardb0dy... I may do the same next time around, the stock placement is ridiculous!!

Did my first oil change. The PO said he did it right before I bought it {2K ago) but the filter sure didn't look like it. I took it to Wally World yesterday, picked up a filter and some Valvoline synthetic and parked in the driveway. Drained the oil and attacked the dreaded filter... I got it loose with some grunting and a few blisters (I like changing the oil when it is hot but whoever designed the filter placement had his HUHA). I figured I could outsmart the whole oil on the starter thing but nope, I think no matter what you do it is a mess. Filter relocation would be nice but I cant see putting it under the truck......

Thanks all. I'm gonna try spinning them 180 to see if it changes anything. I will post after I find anything out....

Why are mine kinda bowed at a static state? they seem to work fine but if I look at them sitting still they don't look like they are traveling in a linear manner... Any thoughts or am a bone head?

Pretty cool pics! Your new ride looks sweet too!

Welcome Bob. Find more power let me know. I am starting with headers, full flow cat and some obnoxious muffler. Maybe with a better intake the two together may make a difference I have to do my exhaust studs anyway, leak sounds like crap until everything comes to temp...

What happens to the water that goes in through the hood vents??? I bet there is a passive drain in there somewhere. Maybe someone else knows for sure, if not I would wait for a dry day and start hitting suspect areas with a hose and see if you can duplicate the problem. Open the hatch behind your glove compartment where your heater resistors are and see if it is full of wet leaves and such. Windshield seal? I would say door seals maybe but it is on the dash not the doors. Hmmm. Keep us posted!

Welcome Badger! Yes, you came to the right place, lots of knowledge on this site and good guys willing to share it. Congrats on the new Pathy!

If a fire was that close to my property I would be standing on my roof pointing at the pool, hey!, there is water over here! Come and get it!

Unless you live in the San Juan islands of Washington, then you have to wave to EVERYONE!!! Just one of those island things I guess....

Looks like the clear coat could be lifting, if it is it's a pretty easy fix. It has nothing to do with the paint underneath, just the sealer. If a buff like ezlife shows the clear coat is releasing get some 2000 grit wet sand and carefully sand the whole hood, removing the clear coat but DONT SAND THROUGH THE COLOR COATS!. Just take your time. After you pretty much have the clear coat off then go over the whole hood again with 3000 grit wet sand (of course you are sanding with water all this time). This should get your hood looking pretty good by now. Use some finishing compound paste and buff out the whole hood again then wash it really good. Use a good light and look for any imperfections left over or caused by your sanding and buff them out too. Go to a paint shop or good auto parts store and buy an automotive grade clear coat in a rattle can making sure the surface is clean, dry, masked, and ready to seal. Several light coats is MUCH better than thick ones. You can YouTube this, just look up repairing clear coat and there are mega videos on the subject.

It was just a base model whatever, I really never knew what actual model it was....

I guess it would protect your factory finish from scratches, dings, and UV too. Pretty cool!