SkiBumBrian

You nailed this on the head... CARB legal is the issue in Commiefornia, I am looking toward a Jim Wolf ECU too.

Replaced my suspect headlight switch... Yep, that was the problem. Thanks to those who helped steer me in the right direction. On a side note, the Set/Coast letters had been worn off over the years so I was using the accel/decel switch because I knew no better... Now I know there is a button on the end of the switch. GEEZ! Oh, and thanks again to Rob for getting it in the mail so quickly. We should feel very fortunate to have someone like him watching our backs.

I remember seeing a device that keeps a very small amount of current running through your frame and body to inhibit rust formation. Do they work? I am just glad I have never lived in an area where rust/cancer is a problem. The only rust on mine is the battery tray, for obvious reasons. Good luck on the repair!

Ordered a HD wiring kit for the headlights and a new switch from Rob. Not only should that fix my one non functioning low beam but bright lights and a new control wand to boot! Now to wait for snail mail....

It will be a good learning experience taking the switch apart anyway... The silver lining to the cloud!

Thanks! I think I will be talking to Rob..... But wouldn't I have a lack of voltage at the socket? You are probably right but I think I am gonna run some jumpers from ground, possibly 12V from battery to confirm other connections first. Thanks for the input, I was leaning that way but was hoping to avoid buying a new switch, I bet they are not cheap!

Maybe one of you guys can point me in the right direction on this one. For the last few weeks I had noticed that the drivers low beam took a couple seconds longer to come on than the right when I first turned them on. Last night I noticed it did not come on at all so I checked it out this morning. I pulled the bulb and it looked OK, the left side fuse was good and I also had 12V at the socket for the low and high beams. I figured it had to be the bulb so I went and bought a set of Silverstars but the same problem exists. Highs work fine, just the drivers low beam will not work. Got 12 volts, maybe not enough amp draw due to a crappy ground or something? Throw me some ideas, I hate just pecking around at electrical problems...... Thanks!

I am voting for the Nissan GT-R too. The most technologically advanced vehicle for sale for use on the public roads. It is built in a hermetically sealed room by hand for heaven's sake and is supercar fast wit the looks of a coupe.....

Go to the garage section and download the Factory Service Manual. It will walk you through the steps. Pretty straightforward, just gotta count the blinking lights.

Never dealt specifically with those Nissan ski/board racks but truck boxes, gang boxes, utilities, etc. have similar cylinders and usually have a 3-4 number code stamped right by the keyhole. A locksmith can usually make one from that code. I have done it more than once, most recently on a Yakima roof mount tote a buddy borrowed for a trip. Locksmith made him a key for 9 dollars...

Those cylinders usually have a code stamped in them. If you find the code, no need to even remove it, just call it in and pick up the keys....

XE, SE, doesn't seem to make much difference on the WD's. You see options spread all over the place. I just want a Nissan that has a GT-R badge on the back..... Yep

Nothing big, jewelry, coins. Found a hundred dollar bill once. Beezer gave the jewelry to his wife so who knows if it was worth anything.... Big chunk of hash once. We didn't get much done that day.

Kyle, If you go to an auction, look for one that does not allow dealers. They know exactly how much they can pay for a vehicle and don't let many slip though their fingers without reason. Don't get discouraged, if you are going to check it out great but friends have gone once thinking that they were going to find the deal of a lifetime. Doesn't often work that way. They are fun though, every time we would bring one home (a buddy does this for a living) we would thoroughly search the vehicle, looking for stashes of untold riches.......

Look for the orange sticker on the pumpkin or get the rear tires off the ground and spin one. If the other goes the same direction, LSD. Opposite, open.

Sorry that I just caught this Rob..... One question. Where the "F" are the tire tracks????

Yeah, right. I just my VIN and discount code and saw that their "discount" was free shipping that they were trying to say was 97.00. I was thinking of buy a locker from them but running a scam like that just helped me decide. No matter what locker I buy it WON'T be a LOKKA. Thanks for the good idea though dj!

Soak that puppy a few times over a few days Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc) and try a left handed bit slightly larger than the one he used. Might back out. You could still try an easy out with it off center that much but the only drawback is they are brittle. You break one off in there and you are ****ed. Not as bad as it might seem. If you are REAL worried about it being off center you could build a jig using the other bolts with a sleeve and drill your own hole more centered but I think you can get it out just the way it is. Good Luck! ( maybe Mr. Machinist will chime in with some expert options...)

Don't give up on your Pathy. There are a lot of guys in Florida on the forum and I feel sure one of them could help. Those problems sound minor and cheap to fix....

I am sure either will suit your needs. I don't think you can find a Blazer that qualifies as "classic" until you go back to the K5s. The first gen Pathys have kind of a cult following and have the old "rugged and boxy" look. I love mine. I like trucks with a frame under them but to each his own, unless you are a hardcore off roader the luxuries within might be more of a selling point than its' off road capabilities. Congrats no matter what you end up with!

Lots of rust free Pathys for sale here in NorCal , east of the mountains of course!

That surprises me a little.... It seems the older vehicles would need the service more, right? If your speedo isn't working you gotta fix it anyway, the light might just go away. Happy 4th of July! (yesterday)lol

+1 on the CEL Coming on due to the speedo. Mine was on and replaced the cable on my D21 and the light went out.... Presto!

Since the DT headers and exhaust Ibam averaging a bit more than 17 around town. I took a short trip on the freeway and was getting much better than that but not far enough to refill and calculate. That is on 33s

Removing the instrument cluster is very straightforward and it only takes a screwdriver! lol To run the codes is simple too, just follow the instructions in the FSM. I think the LED colors and pattern had changed between my '91 and your '95 so I don't want to confuse you with my ECU. It is under the passenger seat, just read the codes as directed and it will point you in the right direction. No where near as precise information as an OBDII reader though....