SkiBumBrian

I think I would start by pulling the instrument cluster and check all the ground connections etc. They are known to call issues, when I bought mine I had a bad voltage regulator behind the dash, 10 bucks at Pick&Pull... As far as the CEL, run a diagnostic at the ECU for error codes. All of this info can be found in the Garage section, there is a downloadable FSM (factory service manual) that can help you with both of these problems. Good luck!

Nice. Makes me homesick for Durango.....

No, only real damage was the slightly tweaked hub......

Got the left side rear axle, bearing, and seals installed last night. Found out it is not a shade tree mechanic job. The press needed to remove and install the sealed bearing on the disc brake models was hard to find in small town CA. That lady T boned me right in the tire. Saved the body but tweaked the hub pretty good. That noise I thought was the torque converter? Nope.....

When I got T-boned directly in the RR tire/wheel several weeks ago, I finally found out the hub got slightly bent so I ordered a new axle through Rob but it needed to come directly from Japan. He told me that it could take many weeks for it to come in but he PM'd me today and he shipped it (only 9 days from ordering)! It may make it here by Saturday so depending on the weather I may swap them out this weekend. Awesome! (to be continued....)

You are kidding right? Nice cooler, just like the one I pulled off a Ford Explorer. Aftermarket of course. I have used similar ones desert racing Class 5, durable and efficient. I would have mounted it in/out down though.

Just like the rear hatch/window lock...... right, left......Ahhh!

Every time I come back and check this thread it just pisses me off more. I talked to my sis that lives in Tacoma and told her to keep a lookout for a Pathfinder that looks like mine , but she is not as "in tune" as we would be... What the heck, one more set of eyes out there, right? I am still hopeful she will come home safe and sound.......

Wow! So sorry to hear that. I hope she comes home safe and sound but as most of us know we have to be our own detectives because the majority of law enforcement these days don't care much about cases that do not make them revenue... My hardbody pickup was stolen last year, got it back 8 days later, stripped, glass broken, clutch plate blown out of it, rattle canned and graffiti all over it. Just sold it for parts. I truly hope you find the help you need and your Pathy is returned to you.

Forget the extra room..... GTR!

Should be a tensioner for each belt. Check out the FSM in the Garage section. Free PDF download has all the info you will need!

If I didn't get the 4x4 Parts UCA's in a package deal (whole front end of a SAS'ed Pathy) I would go with Rough Country too. I still may buy a set when it is time for new bushings...

Replaced tension rod bushings and upper BJ's. I will get around to the lowers when I pull the axles for new boots...

I think it is a marketing ploy.... "yes! It has a limited slip differential too!" It does seem pointless....

90-95 have same breakaway torque, 260-285 lbs. working properly of course. I found newer ones have as low as 24lbs. Useless. I like the E brake and not hydraulics because you can keep full power to the front and feather the E brake as needed. I think I will eventually swap out the LSD for a mechanical locker. Only way to be sure....

Looks like you got lucky! Time for some skid plates if you are gonna wheel like that! Thanks for the pics.... Sorta reminds me of my Class 5 off road days when we cracked a case and used a "diaper" to catch the oil, pour it back in, drive another couple hundred yards, pour it back in.... at least we made it to the next check point.

LSD's have a clutch system for each wheel. The WD21s had a break away of around 280 lbs. and the later ones are considerably less, I am sure someone has the #s but it ain't much, 90 lbs. or so I think. If the ratio between the two wheels (one wanting to spin, one not) becomes more than the break away lbs, the free tire will spin making the LSD useless. If you use your E brake you can compensate for the free wheel, braking it to get the clutch for the non spinning wheel to grab. I know this is far from a technical explanation but it may help you understand. There is no true 4WD without lockers....

Sometimes the E brake trick works with LSD but with the wheel suspended like that it would take alot to overcome the break away threshold.... Looks like you could drive right through it !

Don't know about leaving in in power mode but since the headers and new exhaust I do notice I get a lot better mileage around 75 mph than I did at 60-65 on the freeway. Around town the mileage really didn't change much

Yep.

Here is what I came up with. Worked fine with lung power but if I had to do it again I would put the blower tip on the compressor and try it that way, it sounds much easier unless you like the lightheaded feeling....

i was quoting Doug Thorley directly, the manufacturer. The reason for the new production line (once more quoting DT) was the bung location and mods to relieve some stress points or something similar. I am sure someone with your awesome talents would never have an issue with anything because you are soooo great.

I guess before this last mod to the DT headers some were having an issue with the placement of the EGR port making it difficult to fit to the headers. I recently installed the new production line and it lined up perfectly. I also ran the stock exhaust to the muffler shop. It was all very straightforward but some pretty tight spaces for hands and tools, especially the flange from header to downpipe. Be prepared to replace the exhaust studs too, you will most likely find some broken ones....

Finally got the stock fog lights and my new LED flood lights wired up and switched to the center console. Awesome amount of available light now! Too bad it is light when I wake up and barely getting dark when I hit the sack this time of year....

The 2" is the only one I could find that was CARB legal, I really don't see a need to go bigger anyway. Too large an exhaust just pushes your torque curve higher in the RPM range.. The Gibson muffler was a weld in. After I busted every knuckle and nerve I have wrestling the headers on, I just bolted it to the stock setup and took it to a muffler shop and spent 175.00 for him to bend everything and weld it all. He did a superb job. At the crossover a lot of guys just goop it up with some copper based silicone. I took a band clamp with some fireproof wrap and sealed it that way, it doesn't leak. At least so far.