SkiBumBrian

Just went through this when that lady T-boned me. The bearing has to be pulled and pressed on with great force. Take the axle and everything to a machine shop and have them disassemble and press everything together, believe me!

I think if you didn't grind into a water jacket, hit a seat or something similar you did just fine. Sure would be nice to take a stock set and your heads for a flow bench comparison though!!

Cant wait to hear your results!

On my '91 WD21 it is plug and play, I am not sure about the earlier ones but the only thing I can think of that might make a difference is the computer settings because of the difference between MPFI and carburation?

F&$@ing Owner Really Dumb.......

I found those but none for a WD21. I guess I can do what it did for bumpers.... modify!! I see. The Rugged Rocks sliders are kinda universal, choose your tab locations and weld away....

They are on the list but I guess I have to fab them? Haven't found any available anywhere......

Took the tube/steps off the truck. Definitely gives a lot more clearance between the tires but I did find out that I miss them when I am washing the truck to wash and dry the top. Not sure if I like the new look or not.... If I decide to leave it this way I will have them to sell to someone who wants them.

^^++ Common problem. I doubt the rail itself is leaking, I am betting on the junction hose and it may be following the rail and showing up where you saw it. Replace the hose and see if it cures the problem. It is a little tricky getting the hose on there, push it all the way on one side then feed it back on the other side. Taking the dizzy cap off helps too, along with keeping the hose in your pocket for a while to warm it up to be more flexible. If you are in a hurry use a hair dryer, heat gun, what have you. Make sure you use high pressure hose clamps and not the typical screw type, they wont hold the pressure for long... That is the cheapest, easiest fix. If that doesn't work keep looking but be sure to fix it. Like Nefarious said fuel fires are not fun.....

Don't even think about the pan yet. Look at your valve covers. VERY common leak.

Have you tried the cutting ball? I know absolutely nothing about the VG30E heads so I am no help whatsoever. The work you have done looks very uniform and carefully worked. It is a tedious, meticulous job, that is why it is so expensive. The labor involved is brutal.... Good looking job, I look forward to following your progress!

Polishing exhaust does help, less restriction although limited.

Nice write up.

Even someone with good knowledge of the head is just guessing if he doesn't have access to a flow bench. Porting of the intake is one thing polishing is another.

The valve covers can leak, run down the back of the motor and look an awful lot like it is coming from the pan. Crawl under with a flashlight and look for the highest place you can see fresh oil. You can feel from the engine bay too between the firewall and the valve cover. Some of the screws/bolts hold the cover on are accessible without some dismantling, some aren't. Look around real well before you shell out a bunch of coin and find out it wasn't the pan after all...

Been eating at me ever since B said that running BOTH the stock cooler and an auxiliary cooler was best. I plumbed in a nice aftermarket one but bypassed the stocker.... Went back today and blew the stock one out and plumbed it back in line with the other. No filter or gauge yet but I don't do any towing. Never had an issue with the tranny, fluid is always a nice, fresh looking purple. Might get around to the filter and gauge soon. Kinda hoping it will give out so I am forced to install an Xterra tranny.

From the head guys I know (no jokes, please) they will polish the exhaust ports but no the intake because they say the added "mixing" from the rough surface of the port aids in a more efficient air/fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber. I am no pro so I take them at their word and it makes sense to me. Ever seen those vortex assemblies?

IMHO, trying to port without the proper tools and flow bench is asking for trouble. You can actually do more harm than good to the mixture flow. Polishing intake is never a good idea, you want as much "turbulence" as possible. If you are gonna do any head work, let the pros do it....

I had a System 1 cleanable, reuseable oil filter on my old race buggy. I loved the fact that I could see what the filter caught at each oil change. I might have to see if they are still available, that was years ago. I am jumping on the bandwagon for the Frams with the rubber dipped grip, for now.

I really haven't had a chance since I have owned my Pathfinder to really get out on some open, flat highway until a round trip I made to the big city yesterday. Around town I get between 16-17 regularly but have really been curious about max mileage on the freeway. Since I have owned it I have installed Thorley headers, a cold air intake, 33x12.50's and use a full synthetic oil, other than that it is pretty much stock. Granted I only travel at between 60-65 but was astounded to find I was getting over 22 MPG. Wow! I could tell it was a lot better than normal when I was over 200 miles when the needle hit half way but I am highly pleased with the highway mileage I was getting....

Don't forget about our resident parts guy, Alkorahil. Tell him what you need, he will e you an invoice, pay it and your part is on the way for a substantial savings.... You can PM him or post on the "Genuine Nissan Parts" forum.

Nice truck and nice work!!

I bet with your VIN Alkorahil could tell you, give you a good deal on genuine Nissan parts too!

Haveta look that up !!

So true.... I can tell there is a car/ truck/something back there by the blur......