Rebelord

Then at this point follow all procedures for diagnostic in the FSM. You will have to follow it to a T and it will guide you to the issue. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Idle air valve probably stuck or the spring is broken. Pull it and clean it out good with carb cleaner. Then make sure you can move the valve freely. If the spring is broken then it will need to be replaced. If all is good, then you can ohm check it. Should be about 10 ohm resistance.

SES light on? Have you pulled codes?

Watch it with Chevy rims. A lot have smaller hub bore size. If you can find a set of early R50 wheels or Frontier they are 15x7 and aluminum. Otherwise Summit simple $45 each steelies Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Correct. Was on Tapatalk which has been acting weird for this site. So, probably ended up reading the thread backwards. As for mine in my issue. I had no vibs until 60+ mph. Then the front would gradually shake horribly. Imagine all your lugnuts coming off type horrible. Pulled the hubs off and all the grease poured out like black water. I noticed you also have a 2004. Since you put on manual hubs. Your front driveshaft should not be spinning. UNLESS you left it in Auto Mode. As the AUTO mode will send power to the front from a multitude of different detection's.

Also check out your front wheel bearings. Was the source of my vibration on my 2004 Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Makes sense.

Didnt want to just replace thr bearings? If available locally? Napa can carry them if they also have heavy truck parts or specific rebuilder shops Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

In the rear the LATCH are the ones with the logo. The standard aluminum loops are not to used. I'm glad this has stuck up a good conversation on this. It's good to be informed on the safety of our children. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Sup guys. For us with older Pathfinders, we dont have this. So, I took at look at my 04 to see how its installed. To my surprise it is built into the rear seat back. So, in order to retro fit it. One must replace the whole seat back part. Off to the junk yard it is! Just a FYI for those that have thought about this. As far as the rear tether. Nissan does have a retrofit kit. It cost ~$15 USD for it. Simple to install.

Well it's not like Stoic is running the Baja 1000 crawling around west. It's for trail runs and such. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Just do like Stoic does for runs. Puts some thick washers between the hood hinge bar and the hood. He raises his like 1/2" and it makes something like a 20* difference in the western heat.

Well they forgot mine. Gotta make a call I guess Sigh Sent from fat fingers on S6

Mine came in today. That was fast. Question: Thought this kit was supposed to come with a new HD cross shaft? Not in mine at least.

I run Gabriel Ultra struts and no issues. Plus Lifetime warranty with then from Autozone. So that happens just walk it in and exchange However they do ride a lil rougher than KYBs Sent from fat fingers on S6

Remember this is on a 3.5. Less room than my 3.3. Was not going to remove the power steering pump. Nope. Just take off the sway bar mounts and let it drop. Plenty of room to take it out. No need for a quest alternator. This is already a 110A one. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Welp. Rain stopped. Got back to it. Finally out. Front bearing the separator for the bearings failed. And the rear was failing. Grease was black. Getting replacement tommorow then get it back in. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Sup guys. On top of doing my wheel bearings. My alternator under tension of the belt is squealing. Turns fine by hand. Put the belt on and tension it up, start thr truck for 30 secs. Loud squelch. Turn truck off and the alternator pulley is very hot to touch. Vs touching the actual engine block. I'm trying to get it out. I have the front bracket and bolts removed. Got the plug out and charging cable. But there's another bracket with a wiring harness and a ground? Back there. Don't seem to have enough room to drop it south much more to get to those. Any tricks to this? Kinda stuck and have work this week. Btw, it's the original alternator or a OEM at least. Charges good so just going to replace the bearings in it. No need for a new one. Thanks! Sent from fat fingers on S6

Been so busy with work. I ordered up mine about a week ago. So busy with work. I am in no rush for it. Everyone else get in it?

I did the same ordering rotors. You want to know what the difference is? The caliper mounting bracket. Which are like $20 each at the parts stores. But usually have to order them in. Can just use them with bigger rotors. Done.

So you have to email out the code and they cross check the order ne with the list? Sent from fat fingers on S6

Late to the party. Able to get in thr group buy? $259 is a steal for the lokka. Sent from fat fingers on S6

What happened? They side Swipe you? Sent from fat fingers on S6

Look up ThExbrit. He has a dual battery setup. Also on Expeditionportal.com there are a ton of dual setups. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Unless you have a subframe drop. 31" is a good size. No worries about clearance cutting. And allows tuck on flex easily. Plus the stock size is mostly 29.5" unless you have the funky early LE wheels. If you look at both my Pathfinder they both have 31" and run perfect down here. (The 99 with thr black wheels are actually 29" AT. But the muds are 31") Sent from fat fingers on S6