Rebelord

There are more ecm and IGN fuses in the other fuse panels Sent from fat fingers on S6

There's several in there to check. Did you pull and test all the IGN ones? Sent from fat fingers on S6

Fuse link. Under hood next to the battery. Sent from fat fingers on S6

From the owners manual. It only comes on if the vehicle is driven over 20mph for 10 secs and the tire pressure is low. Should come on and beep or tone for 10 seconds. If its on, but no tone. May be bad tpms? Not sure, you may be only one with it on here.

Nope definitely don't with lift springs. However my OME do ride a lot firmer than OEM. Sent from fat fingers on S6

They will stick out the sides. 4" back space is fine. What most guys run here Sent from fat fingers on S6

Installed the adapter and harness to install a new style Siriusxm antenna to the factory one. Works awesome! Sounds much clearer and not so foggy. Considering that the PO dynomated the rear of the 04 I wonder if he also replaced the speakers? Sounds 1000x better than my 99. Even though the amp in the rear is same part number. Sent from fat fingers on S6

You can only swap clusters that have the same plugs that connect to it. And you can't use a 96/97 that has the mechanical odometer. There are companies that repair them if they require more than you can do. But usually cheaper to find one in the pull yard and try it. If it works. It's either pay the dealer to flash correct mileage. Which would require the original for verification of miles. Or you can go to your dmv and file a odometer adjustment. Basically a permanent record of new miles on odometer on the title. Gives validation for it. Otherwise if you ever try to sell it, it will be flagged for fraud. Sent from fat fingers on S6

If you read the fsm it tells you how to read the ABS codes. There is a separate plug for the ABS system. It doesn't piggy back off the ecu standard obd2 data link. You will read which pins to ground out to read the flashes. If you've ever read codes from a obd1 system it's pretty much the same. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Coverking. Can be pricey. But high quality products Sent from fat fingers on S6

I don't run Monroe. I run Gabriel Ultra. Stock moog replacement shouldn't bottom out. If everything is fine. I'd replace the shocks. See if the parts place will exchange them for you. Which part number Monroe did you get btw? Wonder if they gave you to short a shock. Therefore already compressing the suspension. Do note the Gabriel do ride a bit stiff for a while Sent from fat fingers on S6

Alkorahil. From what I remember there is a superceded part number that is the whole assembly. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Remember the factory lsd is very weak. So if one is a lsd in the yard. Rebuild it to increase its breakaway torque. Sent from fat fingers on S6

Fill the void with silicone? It should hold and is a good dampener of noise Sent from fat fingers on S6

That's why I bought the whole arm for $45 each. Didn't want to hassle with that Sent from fat fingers on S6

Odd. Mines a RE4. Is it a R51? Sent from fat fingers on S6

Liquid wrench and BFH Sent from fat fingers on S6

Fan clutch may be your whoosh noise. When they fail, should fail locked as to always spin the fan. Second, rpm increasing on its own? Vacuum leak somewhere. Check the intake tube from the MAF to the TB. Common for those to crack and its like a giant black hole vacuum leak. Squealing noise is, well a belt. Just check em all and tighten. Since we dont have spring tensioners, need to tighten after a bit.

Can you imagine if someone made spindle designed for a lift for the R50? That would be something, wouldn't it? Just not popular enough to warrant it. Sent from fat fingers on S6

I would double check all wires. Make sure all go to correct plug and seated. Even double check your distributor is set right. Real easy when dropping it to have it go a tooth off. Which can cause mayhem. Heck with that much miss fire I'd pull all plugs too. Sent from fat fingers on S6

It's a interesting concept. Like you said gotta start somewhere. Just need to build up, test, thrash. Find weakness and improve. I feel the same way about subframe drops. They kinda stilt down the front in a way that I am wary of them. Maybe a 2" isn't so bad. Sent from fat fingers on S6

He said in 1st post he did. At least what I see reading it on mobile. Sent from fat fingers on S6

The ignition coil is built into a 3.3 distributer Sent from fat fingers on S6

The reason for the "missing link" is that it stiffens up the front subframe. Lessons the amount it twists and flexes. Which you don't want to happen in a subframe vehicle like ours. You want the suspension to do the work. Sent from fat fingers on S6 Edit: As for disconnects. On the rear, it's hard to find a spot to secure the sway bar and links to keep them out of harms way. Probably easier to remove the sway bar completely for a technical ride. The front has options though.

No. Those are a Mxxx (M200) type. Only way would be transfer the whole rear end by welding on the control arm brackets and all Sent from fat fingers on S6