fixinto

Thermostat is in the neighborhood of the waterpump. and the bypass hose. If this is the standard 3.3 that i am used to seeing, i would verify that the head gasket is blown before i replaced it. there are some tubing and hoses under the plenum that can fail and a thermo element that attaches to your idle cam that goes bad. But if its puking coolant from the water pump someone may have overheated it. =( good luck with your project. Pat

na they shouldnt, they just free wheel if they are unlocked. and your front diff and front drive shaft just sits when the hubs arn't locked as well. Probably a wheel bearing, or bad struts making uneven tire wear, Or a warped brake rotor. There are a few checks you can do to try to track it down. I believe someone mentioned the tire wiggle test. grab it at 12 and 6 and wiggle, should be no play, and 3 and 9 and wiggle, should be no play also. 12 / 6 = wheel bearing, 3 / 9 tierod end. while you have it up spin the tire and see if you hear an uneven drag, there should be a little drag from the brake pad riding on the rotor, but you will be able to tell if its uneven. Thats all i have, hope you track it down. but mine is doing the same thing. I am thinking the bad wheel bearing wore the tire uneven because it was a while before i could line out the bearing. "like a year" Good luck Pat

or throw on some manual locking hubs and while your in there replace and or repack the wheel bearings. ;P if its the front shaft it wont do it with the hubs unlocked. I have the same thing, 50 to 65 ish. pretty sure my tires were worn unevenly because i waited to address a wheel bearing issue. the longer i drive it the less it does it. (after the wheel bearings were replaced) pretty sure once the tread wears down past the crappy part it will go away, at least that's what i keep telling myself hehe. Pat

Nice upgrades, i like build threads in our Yr area too. because its what you have and can relate to the best. Good job Pat

mine leaked oil for a while until i fixed the valve cover gasket seals, i could have tightened up the "phillips head" screws in them and probably got a little longer out of it before i had to change them because several were very loose, but i went ahead and changed them. Upon changing them, i found they were hardend like plastic and came out in broken brittle chunks rather than being soft and pliable. so they were pretty much toast anyways, probably Original ones. If lower RPM fixed your oil consumption problem, unless your covers are leaking bad then it is probably a different issue, rings or something getting tired. could be gaskets i guess, if its extremely loose near a drain back in the head or something. Also if your PCV valve sticks open it can cause oil consumption too, especially at higher RPM. so i would investigate that as well considering its easy to get to. Pat

cool, so just lay off the ol girl and she will be happy ;P

Copy that, same thing happend to me when i cleaned my TB too. So i understand completely. ;P Pat

Mine was 7 times in 10 seconds, i was backing out of the drive and it just started flashing one day. Reset it and haven't had issue with it. About the airbag exploding. " i know its a zombie thread" but just disconnect the batter and it shouldnt be an issue. pat

Did you change anything to make it idle high? If not its probably your thermal element on your fast idle cam took a crap. If you cleaned your TB it can cause it to idle slightly higher until it compensates for the extra air. I dont know if you have the drive by wire "no cables going to the throttle body" but as far as i know there is only a relearn procedure for that type of throttle control. The other one is all manual adjustments and after you turn the key on and off for 5 seconds 21ish times it locks the idle in as perma idle happiness. with a rainbow? /shrug GL with her Pat

^ ECTS ohm it. ^ if you havent changed the filter since you have owned the truck throw one at it Knock sensor code is always there on our rides "well just about" it wont throw a check engine code. If it detects a Knock, it retards the timing to prevent ../shrug supersonic rod ejection? because if its knocking that bad then its probably having issues anyways. I had a knock sensor code on mine every time i read it for 6yrs, and it drove perfectly with no CEL. when i changed it "it was split in the middle" Also if you did a relocation investigate the vacuum hose in the back of the manifold. But check all of the free stuff first. all of that being said, before you get crazy with the cheez whiz, ohm meters, and box end spanners / wrenches, check the tube from the air box to the throttle body VERY carefully for cracks. After you start it rev it and see if it will stay running while reving. Vacuum leak will kill it at idle. make a note whether it dies with your foot on or off the brake or both "quick and dirty way to exclude the master cylinder for your brakes" Also if you did a relocation investigate the vacuum hose in the back of the manifold coming from your fuel regulator, as well as the one under the TB. Check and make sure your relocation wiring is sound. If you have an ohm meter the knock sensor should ohm.... tentatively between 200k and 600k, all i remember if memory serves is 420k middle reading on the ohm meter. "your fsm should have the range" Meter the connector to make sure you don't have an open or short between the pins. If you can spray it and it says running it should be either a fuel pressure or air leak fix. GL with her. Pat

Hi there, Thumbs up for keeping your rig. Bad luck with the tire is all, could happen to anyone. "your right about the rip for shocks / struts." the "four wheel alignment" is nothing more than adjusting the toe on the front end. As far as i know that is the only adjustment on our rigs being that the other part of the alignment is handled by the tolerances of the good parts on the front. The strut tower and inner fender support "rust" issue is a factory recall and they can nip that in the bud before it even gets bad FOR 0$ being a recall and all. =) Also stated above about the best tire for the spare, yes that is correct. good practice. I highly recommend getting the FSM for your truck, there is a thread on here where you can download it for free. It is something that comes in more than handy. It gives you every nut and bolt with exploded views and torque specs and such. Even if your sons friend will be doing the work, having the manual on had will help out quite a bit. HECK YA ON KEEPING HER, thumbs up again. Take care of it and it will take care of you for many, many miles to come. Pat

make sure you dont have valve cover gasket leaks. Around that year its a common thing to need to change them. Also, if your driving it at 3 thousand rpm plus, try driving it at 2500 ish rpm, just leave earlier. If you still consume oil at reduced RPM, just "not as much by a small percentage" then ya its probably using it. Look at your tail pipe when u first start up in the morning and see if you get blueish smoke until it warms up, in that case probably valve stem seals. hope some of that can at least point you in the right direction. But im leaning toward valve cover gaskets. do you have any dots under the truck after you park it overnight? If they r leaking that much they r pretty bad, im betting when you get them out of there they will be more like hardened pieces of plastic than rubber seals. good luck with your pathy Pat

Congratz bud, happy it gotcha lined out.!!!! Cant believe some of my advice or endless ramblings actually helped somebody for a change, LOL.... Congratz again man. Pat

passenger side behind intake? fuel regulator for the lose. =) should drive a lot better. Mine didnt hard start when it was unplugged but it sure did hate when u put a load on it on the interstate. hope that fixes you up. Keep us upto date. in the mean time i am looking for a place but anything i can throw at you on the quick and dirty i will keep firing until i run out of ammo. After i get settled somewhere i will do some deeper digging if required. best of luck Pat

Late edit to my post, it would appear that the Crank position Sensor doesn't control the engine function, it is there to monitor for misfires, "according to the service manual" So maybe scratch that one too. so now we r down to TPS / MAF / Temp Sensor. Also i would ohm out the resistor for the ignition system. "dizzy" you can find the Pin outs and the plug location in the EC section of the manual. it is supposed to read 2k ohms i think it said. So if you are heat soaked, and it wont start and u have a meter handy, there you go. I am hoping that the sensor disconnect tells you something though. bed tired Pat

I will have to take a look at the FSM to see whats what with that feature. But im thinking that it may not cause your problem. But it never hurts to check it out. Let me see if i have it straight so far, Fuel pump / Filter, / cleaned maf, / cleaned throttle body / new evap canister / new dizzy / cap / rotor/ thought i may have seen plugs / wires in there too somewhere.... So if we look at this objectively, i guess a good question to ask would be, What causes fuel cut off, but not spark cut off while reading from the sensors? Temp Sensor, MAF i believe, Malfunctioning TPS possibly, Crank Sensor, Cam sensor, ....O.K. i think thats about it. There are probably a ton more things but thats all i have right now, as i look behind me and see my butt dragging the ground about 4 foot back. Now another good question to ask would be, What causes "said" issue without throwing a Fault code and tripping the CEL. hmmmm... Considering that your truck starts cold and runs "normally" I'm assuming until you cut power. then upon restart it says F.U. basically. well you can unplug the M.A.F. and see if she fires next time you turn it off hot. Just dont rev it overly much. let it idle. U can do the same with the TPS. As far as bleeding fuel pressure it would have to be bleeding super fast for it not to start when u turn it over right when u turn it off. so in my opinion thats out "for now" so just for now i would say, try the sensor trick, if it dont work, DOH, but its an easy and free test. Also when you turn your key off be sure its off for at least 5 to 7 seconds and then when you turn it forward again, listen for your fuel pump to hum the happy song. That will let u know if it is even acting like its going to comply when you turn the key. So if you have a hum, and the sensor trick dont do it for you. We need to ask, what cuts the actual injector pulse needed to fire the injectors on startup. But after its started runs fine. Still having me leaning toward MAF / Crank / Temp sensor. the temp sensor is the one under the intake not the one on top of the intake. I hear that thing causes all kinds of flakey stuff to go on. I am hitting the sack. Thats all i have for now. But if you cant nail it down and do decide to go after something where you remove your intake, i highly recommend replacing the Valve cover gaskets while your in there. But hopefully one of these works. I am not sure that you can unplug the temp sensor and fire it up i have never tried. Anyways, let me know how it goes. I am rootin for ya. Oh and before i forget, your speedo / tach is working fine right? Anyhow, Have a good one. hope i didnt on and on too much, i do that a bit when im tired Pat P.S. i would say the cam sensor is out because you replaced the dizzy.

Oh ya i have been meaning to ask you because i dont know myself. The FSM says shorted for the TPS closed position, Well when i set mine, the lowest ohm reading i got was 19 to 20 ohms in the closed position. My question to you is, when you set yours did you use the continuity check or ohms? IF you used ohms did your TPS read 0 at the wide open throttle pins when it was in the closed position? It has been driving me crazy and want to know mainly for my own knowledge. My OBDII reads 94 percent at 100 percent wide open throttle but that is the only strange thing i have going on that im aware of, and i was wondering if the ohms were really supposed to be 0, when it calibrated, did the 20 ohms make 6 percent difference on the backside. thanks for any feedback Pat

Happy you got the fast idle cam sorted, mine took a dump "well the thermal element" and i priced one at 150 and special order, so instead i backed the screw off, and flipped that rascal over backward." ECU still idles it up to 1200 on cold start so that little bastage is a .....piece of $H*& anyways. as far as i can tell you dont even need it. "maybe it makes a difference in sub 0 or something" /shrug, coldest ive cranked it with it unhooked is 4 and wind chill -7 F worked fine for me. About your fuel delivery. 1. make sure you put the filter on in the proper flow direction. 2. make sure the purge for the vapor in the gas tank isnt stuck open 3. make sure your regulator is ..well um regulating hehe. .....wish i had some more free suggestions but i think that will probably do for now. However, if you take care of those 3 things that eliminates everything from the rails backward for fuel delivery. I am not sure if you had the intake off. But make sure the vacuum line behind the intake "closer to the passenger side" is hooked up to the regulator, and be sure the rubber vacuum line connecting one part of the metal piping to the other isnt boogered. Personally i think that if it were a vacuum leak it would make a rough stumbling idle at best and a choked out kindof trying to die thing going on if it were worse. So i dont really expect it to be that, but i just thought i would throw it out there. Also give your steering wheel a bump left and right, and make sure it bumps it up 50 to 100 rpm, that is a quick and dirty way to see if your IACV is functioning. P.S. if the vacuum line is off of the regulator, it will cause, poor fuel eco, slight valve chatter under load, "like uphill on the interstate and such" not telling you how i know that either "cough cough" Making progress, keep up the good work. Pat

sigh, somehow i jacked up and posted early and by the time i typed 800000000 words the edit time had passed so i will just add to it. what i was going to say was...If you replaced the distributor be sure the knotch on the gear and the shaft are properly aligned. Set the number 1 to TDC and when you drop the distributor in keep in mind it rotates a good bit. i generally use about 1/2 way between the number one and the one before that when i do mine. "and dont confuse the hole through the gear for the knotch" can happen in poor lighting, not telling you how i know that "(cough, cough)" If you haven't cleaned your MAF yet, let the truck cool off 1/2 an hour or so, yank it, clean it and reinstall it. I use a qtip and 90 percent alcohol or Maf spray and a qtip. "there are some that would disagree with the qtip thing" just like anything else, but i have cleaned A LOT of mafs and have had no issue with the qtip thing whenever the wire was given enough time to completely cool down. just be gentle with it. If you were thinking of buying something for it, because it might be bad, personally i would hold off on that and purchase a tool to test things with and assist me with the diagnostics process. A good set of tools can be built up slowly and could save you lots of $ over the years. Being that you have a "warm start Issue" i would be leaning toward a sensor of some sort over timing, being as when you first start it and its cold the ECU dont use most of the sensors because its running in open loop. When it gets up to operating temp it switches over to real time fuel regulation and such. "closed loop" but an el cheapo multi meter, and a wireless obdII would be handy "if you have a smart phone" you can get torque and a blue tooth obdII reader and read sensor voltage in real time. "very useful" i got my bluetooth OBDII reader from amazon for 30 shipped, if there is a harbor freight around you, they have digital ohm / volt meters for 6 dollars or so. I would love to throw a suggestion at you about what to change but im afraid with the data i have i would be throwing a guess out there, and no matter how good of a guess it is, i could cost you money needlessly. Wow, kindof going on and on, sorry about that. I will sum up my two cents, Keep a decent set of diagnostics tools and the FSM close at hand, take your time, start with free stuff. "stuff you can clean, adjust, measure" you will probably end up finding a sensor that reads at least questionable on a V or Ohm check. "if it is a sensor". Have fun wrenching on your ride, i know i do. Hope you get it lined out Pat

yes sir, depending on how far out your timing is, it could cause a slow to start "crank multiple times" or a no start, would have to be pretty bad though. Not sure if the timing would make a cold / hot difference. /shrug Before you throw any parts at it, take a little bit of time to think it through. You can easily throw a dizzy, new plugs, wires, and so on and so forth, but still end up with the same issue. so i would recommend not replacing anything before you run some diagnostics.

Ok just drive it a while, and if the timing is correct at base timing then it will get better with time. At least mine did after i had to make a few adjustments after idle cam went bad and cleaned the throttle body. pat

yep, thats what i thought, happy it was simple. pat

ya, probably TPS position, when u let off the gas and the rpms continue at 1250 or so then slowly comes down with your speed. would say tps / timing related together. but would start with tps. Also be sure your fast idle cam is functioning correctly it can be set to where it wont let rpms come down. but if the rpms do return to normal, then ur idle cam is fine. pat

if you used an ohm meter and feeler gauges, and u have the mechanical throttle linkage it should be right. if you have the drive by wire....dont know how to adjust that, havent researched it. but the W/O throttle and feeler gauges work well. here is a link to a video i made for TPS adjustment while i had the intake off. lighting is a little sucky and phone camera is shakey but it will let you know if you got the adjustment correct. fuel bump? rpm surge for nothing pretty much at like a stoplight? pat