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Got my replacement O2 sensor for 38 bux at autozone. its Bosch i think and its the kind you splice in instead of just plug in. Have to cut original wires and reconnect them to the new sensor. Pat

yar seems like cleaning the TB, if it has been a long time since it was cleaned idles em up. Mine is a VG33 and it idled up after the TB cleaning. luckily had the screw in the back of the manifold to make it happy. Of course, mine is cable drive instead of drive by wire. Pat.

The thermal element is under the upper intake plenum. Probably just needed an idle adjustment. but if its lined out and it was worth your 400 bones. Have a good one Pat

little peaceful time with Mr. Pathy.

fast idle solenoid? I know we have a Fast idle cam, and a Thermal element "under the intake" that controls it with an arm thatrotates the cam. Usually the part that contacts the cam arm is bent "just from what i have seen on several different R50s I am not so sure about the Solenoid. I hope he didnt adjust your intake screw and call it good and charge you 400dollars. Thats why i dont take mine to a Mechanic" parts mark up 200 percent plus, labor, 75 to 150 an hour. Half the time they BS you and when they dont, they gouge you. "shrug, to each their own" Happy you got it lined out. Pat

Tried to EDIT and it was too late. Just wanted to add as an alternative. 1. You could Drive it for a while and see if it self corrects, "like a week or a few hundred miles or whatever" 2. Make sure the ground wire on the MAF sensor plug is ok. but if it drives normal after fully warmed up it should be ok. 3. I wouldnt mess with the TPS to try to correct it, because nothing you did would really effect that, it just is a resistance vs position based sensor and it cant really get "dirty" inside it. OK thats all i have for now, hope it works out for you. Pat

Same thing happend to me after cleaning the TB, "the fast idle part" May have dislodged some crusty stuff from the throttle plate and it is interfering with the IACV, or if the throttle plate was very dirty, it just has a higher idle and is trying to find the proper idle and cant quite get there. I would recommend "double checking" the MAF and make sure no debris was left behind when you cleaned it. "MAF spray OR high percentage rubbing alcohol "90 percent plus" and a Q tip, very light touch and do not do it until the truck has cooled down for a while. Your MAF is a wire that uses the heat of the wire to determine air flow, if there is a piece of debris on it, it will jack up the temp reading. If you double check the maf and it looks fine, Make sure your fast idle cam is set properly, IF the Fast idle cam is set properly, You may just need to adjust the idle screw on the back of the intake to bring the idle down to normal at fully warm operating tempature. The increased air flow through the TB will increase idle. So if it was really really dirty its a large change to the computer. Hope this helps you some. The only reason i had input is because the same thing happend to me as well. Only the IDLE CAM wasnt working, after i figured that out, it was simply a matter of flipping it over backward to take it out of the equation, then adjusting the idle screw on the intake. Pat

IF i recall correctly u have manual hubs? and run them unlocked? well generally if somethings is vibrating while in motion its a rotating force, so cv's and front drive shaft, "propeller shaft" front universals, rear universals, unless it feels like its in the front. "slightly" warped rotor, bent rim, obviiously these are all just shots in the dark, but maybe i had something in there you didnt think of. Did you change the inner and outer wheel hub bearing? Also the cones themselves can get enough where on them to cause bad joo joo, did you drive out and replace the inner wheel bearing race as well or just the set of bearings on each side? hmm been a long day, thats about it for now. hope you find it. have a good one. oh, worn trans mount? even though thats not technically a rotating mass. Roy

wow a clogged coolant overflow hose? i gotta research that for sure, its the strangest thing i have heard to date about the pathy. lol well if it fixed you up, congratz bud. "again" very interesting problem you had there for sure. but hopefully u can ditch that starting fluid. happy holidays and Merry Christmas pat

I had grinding in 4th very slightly for a while so i just mostly skipped it, then when it started grinding in first every now and then i changed the fluid with Penzoil Synchro Mesh "spelling is probably wrong" being as MT-90 and Amsoil are hard to come by around here and MT-90 is pricey if you order it from summit racing. I noticed an immediate difference when i changed the fluid. It doesnt grind in any gear, and shifts great, better than it ever has in fact. The synchro mesh says right on the bottle that its friendly to gold colored metals, thats the only one i found that even hinted at being friendly to the synchros so i gave it a shot. Throw out bearing "release bearing" been bad since i purchased the pathy. Clutch is starting to slip a little bit when its cold so its time for a clutch for sure just as soon as it gets a bit warmer and im not working dark to dark. Pat

96 Pre facelift here, so no help. However when my driver side door handle broke off leaving work one night when it was really cold outside, i was thankful for the passenger side key cylinder. ;P

congratz. good thing u got the manual rad, the auto one has places to hook up the trans lines Happy to hear you got it running right again. wouldnt sweat the compression check if it feels normal and all, it would run "different" if you had a head gasket leak. May wanna do the exhaust gas in the rad test just to be safe. But if it feels right and its running normal. The thing you have to tell yourself is.....if its not broken....dont "fix" it. hehe. Really happy to hear you got er going. Pat

FSM for the win. Generally when the marks on the cams are lined up with the little metal dimples of the rear timing cover, "the one behind the cam sprokets" and the mark on the crank sprocket is 5 o'clockish your there. But search around for some info, because as far as i can tell most folks just count teeth from the crank sprocket mark to the driver side cam and then the distance in teeth from the driver cam mark to the passenger cam mark. I would tell you what the teeth count is supposed to be but i would only be "close or 99 percent sure" so i dont want to risk it. But tons of information out there on it. Just take your time, double and triple check while your in there. Pat

Go Go Gadget balancer puller, gotta pull it. If you end up going with a 3 jaw, u may as well buy a new balancer. But the puller should work just fine. put the crank bolt back in and thread it in several threads to anchor on that with the puller. pretty straight forward. Pat

Replaced the driver side exterior door handle that broke off when we had a cold snap. "rock auto 12 bones plus shipping" bout 30 to 45mins worth of work depending on the tools you have. Pat

Ohhh, the good ol number 6. I remember him. was probably original plug in mine as well, changed it while i was doing the valve cover gaskets, and again while i had the heads off the next year, figured why not. But i can in fact see how it would make fetal position weepage. =( Pat

couldn't he put the xmission and the xfer case in neutral, shouldnt spin the rear shaft then? Pat

sounds like the guys have it pretty well in hand from what i have read. I have rubber bump stops mounted to the bottom floor inside the spring for the rear. not sure about the 01 if im honest. but see if those are missing or fell off or something if you have them. there is somewhere on the forum u can grab a FSM that will help guide you as well. Pat

if your ride is like my ride the crank position sensor is located on the trans bell housing. " if you swapped the motor and it came with new everything it only leaves 2 things." 1. Crank position sensor 2. your wiring harness. if the harness is open or shorted to the sensor it will throw the same code meaning its not responding or fixed in one position. poking around with a digital multi meter could tell you a lot. i googled the P1110 real quick because i didnt really know what it was. so here is the first thing that popped up Possible causes - Faulty Intake valve timing control solenoid valve - Intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness is open or shorted - Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty - Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty - Camshaft position sensor Hope this info can at least get you headed in the right direction Pat

nice, happy to hear it worked out for you man. Pat

Ya, have to take apart a lot of stuff to make it easy. almost as much stuff as a timing belt job. before you dig into it that far. how bad is the damage to the pipe? would it be possible to grind down the part thats jacked up and just slide the hose further back? /shrug. I always look for money / time saving alternatives. some of them work out, some of them dont. Pat

ya, DL the FSM, it will show u step by step how things come apart and such. I would say ur Power steering fluid tank, is in the way, your PCV, hose on the side of your intake, the coolant line on the side of your intake, your evap charcoal canister, and the metal pipe running from your exhaust manifold to the EGR valve is in the way. Only reason i know is because i replaced mine last year. ;P take all of that off, or loose, relocate it, slide it down or move it over or w/e you need to do to get in there. There isn't really a whole lot i can tell you other than, extensions and take your time. think it through. Sorry i cant be of more help. Pat

sweet, hopefully that fixes you up on the cheap, always a good thing when you can hit the yard and save some $. GL Pat

most of the coolant is on the ground looks like =( If your going far enough to do the thermostat, may as well do the WP while the junk is out of your way. "unless" you plan on trying to do it leaving the pulleys and such on the vehicle. pat

^ ya i can see that, exhaust leaking into coolant = over pressurizing = bad joo joo for radiator. wow i hope that isnt what happend, would be reallly really bad luck, and when u get it together, u still have the hard start hot issue. hasn't been a good few months for you jeff. Sorry for all your misfortunes. pat