fixinto

yes sir, sounds like either you have fuel pressure bleeding off, or you have a bad sensor. Temp is a good one to start with from what i have heard. It's the 90 second thing that make it interesting. Please let us know if you fix it. Pat

Today, i took a day off work do to having way much to do and not enough time to do it. I have been moving my stuff for the past week and needed to turn in the cable box and get a change of address form, so on and so forth.... this is the only time i have taken a day from work in ....it has to be 3 or 4 years. Well Murphy being true to his law concerning me, when i came out of the cable office after turning in the box for the TV, the pathfinder wouldnt start, just click, click, asked for a jump from a guy beside me, threw the cables on there, click click. Needless to say with everything on my plate, i threw up in my mouth a little bit because that my friends is the sound of a starter telling you to ***k off. so i called around on my phone until i found a starter, Only one in stock in town, I then push started the pathfinder drove to the store and bought one. 140 smackers plus a 30 bone core. OUCH IM MOVING FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!!! I cant really gripe because the truck has been pretty much flawless for the last 6 years. So after a 15 dollar cheapo tool set purchase i pulled the pathfinder up on the parking curb in the "autoparts" parking lot crawled under it and removed the old starter and threw the new one on. Its a little tight in certain spots but with a good set of either open ended wrenches or shorty ratchets its not a hard job. "unfortunately the shorties and good boxies are in storage at this time" what you will need to change the starter, 1. Either ratchets or box end 2. 14mm socket 3. 12mm socker and or box end wrench 4. about 20minutes to 40minutes of your time. (depending on available tools and level of experience) an interesting side note is that the new starter came with 13mm nuts on the terminals instead of 12mm. the threads are the same, just the outer part of the nuts were different. Process: FIRST DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY. cant stress that enough. Next I recommend if you can reach the terminal nut at all with the starter still bolted on, go that route, as it makes the starter stable while your loosening the nut. there are 2 terminals and one plug on the starter. One of the terminals are hooked up "the top one" and it has a rubber dust boot covering the 12mm nut. Pull the dust boot back and throw a shorty ratchet with a 12mm socket on it and loosen it until u can remove the cable attached to the post. After that go ahead and remove the two 14mm bolts that run through the transmission "bell housing" into the starter At this point pull the starter toward the front of the motor and give it a wiggle and it will come out, position it to where you can see, and reach the "clipped in terminal" being i have big hands and arms and i dont see well in the daylight, i had to position it so i could see it, then feel around it giving the plug a gentle squeeze with two fingers until i found a part that was springy or had a little give to it. Then i depressed that tab and pulled the plug away from the locking connector to disconnect it. after this just compare your starters to make sure you have the correct one for your make and model, "there were several for my year according to the tech bulletin" once you determine you have the correct part. I recommend plugging the connector back in, then placing the starter back where its home is. Start the two 14mm bolts that go through the bell housing into the starter by hand. " i personally go 4 to 5 threads to make sure there is no cross threading" after it was seated i then put the terminal with the dust boot back on the post sticking out, "the top post" put the lock washer on, reused my 12mm nut and got it started by hand as far as i could. At this point i went ahead and torqued the 14mm starter bolts down, and torqued the 12mm nut on the top post down. Slide the the dust boot back over the terminal and nut. "double check your work" once satisfied that you have put it on, crawl out from under your ride, replace the battery cable and give her a crank. Mine fired right up and ran fine, turned it off and tried it again giving it 30seconds to cool down in between. Fired right up. No strange noises rattles or otherwise. I am very sorry for not having time to take photos or videos, but being as i was busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest at the time, that wasn't really an option. I hope this can help someone that was in my position in some small way. Have a good day fellas, and females. Other notes of interest: My pathfinder has cranked a little slower than i was used to since i bought it. but generally didnt take much to fire it up so no big deal. This went on for six years. This morning i started it up and had sort of a lingering hum, like the solenoid was sticking just a touch longer than normal. It caught my ear being that you know what the "normal" start up sound is, if you have owned your ride for a while. Well it may have done this once or twice before over last couple of weeks but this time it really caught my attention, after that, the next time i tried to start it, all i go was a click. I am relatively sure that i could have beaten on the solenoid with a screw driver handle or let the truck cool for several hours and it probably would have worked again. But i guess my point was, the lingering hum of the solenoid was the only warning i got for my starter crapping out. so beware =) Pat

hmm, after its in gear when u let out the clutch? or while the clutch is in? have you tried it at different RPM? heat shield rattle? come to think of it, i think i have a gangle in 1st i think its the throw out bearing, "aka release bearing and or clutch release bearing" because it has a sortof, "metal slip sound while depressing the clutch petal sometimes and a very high whine when in neutral." other than that heat shield? lol pat

factory recall on the TPS related ones, http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0510_nissan.html the incorrect drive gear one...../shrug, maybe if its an auto the torque converter isnt locking up properly because of the TPS issue? heck i wouldnt even know but i would start with the factory recall on the TPS codes. that should at least get you in the ball park. well not a recall but a tech bulletin. so a known issue i guess. Sorry Pat

yes sir, 9 and 3 are tie rods, also causes the wheel shake at over 40mph, so keep it slow until you replace them, if you have one of them go it cost you your steering on that side. Good luck and be safe. Pat P.S. will probably need an alignment directly after that. "also if the new tires have been on there for only a short amount of time the tire tech should have informed you of the faulty tie rod end" They generally wont even touch it until you replace them if they are bad.

All you have to do is turn the engine off, unplug your TPS, start the truck, let it idle for a couple of minutes, snap the throttle a couple of times and let it return to idle. "at operating temp" then loosen the dizzy bolt, adjust your timing, tighten the dizzy bolt back down, turn off the engine, plug in your TPS and there you go, all done. You set base timing and the ECU takes it from there. I wouldnt mess with the dizzy because the ECU advances it as your RPM's go up. Just check the base timing and if it is at 15 degrees your fine, 17 degrees is ok too. I would do a spark test on my plug wires to make sure they are "arching far enough" under load. If it has been a long time since plug change, i would inspect the plugs. Also ohm out your wires to make sure they read correctly. "specs in FSM" Check along the length of the wires for white marks where the spark could be arching through to something metal. May wanna pop the distributor cap and take a look at the leads and button to make sure there isnt any carbon buildup deflecting the spark. be a good time to look for cracks and such as well. I would just tell you to throw several parts at it but im on the poor side most of the time so i have to put in the trouble shooting to save cash. I didn't realize the ecu had specific cylinder misfire codes. kewl. Oh the short answer is yes, i just read the last part of your post hehe. But 2 degrees of timing wont cause a misfire. Pat

i wouldnt even worry about the knock sensor. I bought mine 6 years ago, it had a knock sensor code the entire time i drove it and it drove fine. I replaced the knock sensor when i was down that far for other things about a year ago. I figure if it went bad and it is throwing a code, at least it went bad in such a way that it didnt put you in limp mode so....why even bother. =) got my knock sensor from ebay for 18 bux. Been in there almost a year and working fine. Glad you got er goin Pat

bulb burned out? ;P

My 96 has a HUGE difference between 4hi and 4lo. ;P

If you have an auto trans you will have to undo you trans lines from the radiator before you pull it. Otherwise pretty much as the others said above. Pat

Looks like a nice piece of fab for sure. would have to clearance some things for sure. "clearance" generic term meaning if it does not fit cut it. hehe probably some sort of fabbed cross support attached to the frame. Can't tell from the pic, but i would sure like to see. Pat

wow, off the top of my head i cant remember what the part number was. But 435 rings a bell. i remember it was a pain getting the fella at the counter to look them up. we went round and round until i "refound" them on my phone and gave him the number. that phone is Ka-Put unfortunately. Let me do some browsing and i will get back with you on the part number. Edit: Yep, looks like 435. The kit comes with allen head bolts, just had a heck of a time wrestling with the wheel studs, but the stock nuts will fit just a "bear" to turn them a very small tweak at a time because of clearance between them and the hub. And, LOCKTITE FTW. Really easy to throw on there though. Good time to check and or repack your wheel bearings while your there. And, SNAPRING PLIERS FTW. ;P Pat

nice, glad you got it sorted on the cheap bud, thumbs up. I noticed my element itself was leaking a little bit around the seal the other day. So after i get a few things sorted in the next month or month and 1/2 i will probably just delete the thermal element from the picture by bypassing it. It hasn't worked in years anyways. ;P Have a good one. Pat

Sorry, I may not have understood the question completely, i thought you were asking how to find your AC compressor belt. The one you are pointing at will be one of your 2 idler pulleys. They don't go to any accessories, you loosen the nut, to adjust your belt tension, well that is part of it. You loosen the nut on the idler pulley, and adjust the "bolt" that goes to that idler, depending on which way you turn it, the belt will tighten or loosen. You have 3 adjustments and 2 idler pulleys, the power steering pump mount bolt at the bottom is loosened to adjust it, the adjustment bolt can be a little tricky to find. Sorry if I still did not get your question correct. Pat

You have two, upper and lower intake, or upper plenum gasket and then lower intake manifold gasket. Going after the knock sensor lower intake, going after the thermal element, idle air control valve ect... upper plenum.

It goes to your thermal element for the fast idle cam. Little arm that pushes back and forth based on the heat of your coolant. The hose that is busted plugs into the back of that, and it is located under your upper plenum. The pipe is the feed for the EGR to feed the exhaust back into the manifold to reduce cylinder temps and/ or noxx emissions.

you can probably find another motor at a yard for pretty cheap. Just the master rebuild for the engine and the machine shop work alone would probably cost 1200'ish and i cant be positive that even comes with pistons. I think just all the bearings, gaskets, rings, and so on. but like i said i am not sure. I briefly looked at the rebuild kit as a way of getting another motor from the yard and making it pretty much new, then if mine took a crap i would throw her in there in a weekend in the driveway or something. But once i started adding up all the cost i decided just to go with a yard motor if the need ever comes up. Mine has 198k miles on it and is still running pretty strong. Pat

find your AC compressor its the thing on the front of your motor thats not your water pump, or altenator or crank pulley or 2 idler pulleys pwer steering pulley. WOW that was a mouth full. The Ac compressor has a couple of rectangle"ish pieces of metal on the pulley facing the radiator. Or follow that Large shiney line back to the motor it should eventually make it to the compressor. On my 96 SE the AC compressor is top pulley driver side. bottom pulley driver side is power steering and the belt has teeth instead of lines. Thats about the best i can do to help you out there. Pat

find your AC compressor its the thing on the front of your motor thats not your water pump, or altenator or crack pulley or 2 idler pulleys pwer steering pulley. WOW that was a mouth full. The Ac compressor has a couple of rectangle"ish pieces of metal on the pulley facing the radiator. Or follow that Large shiney line back to the motor it should eventually make it to the compressor.

I bought a set of MM hubs from auto zone, this year. so unless it has changed in the last 4 or 5 months you can order them at autozone and have em in a couple of days for around 86 bux.

saw the same thing about the 2mpg with the MM hubs. I have a 96 SE 4x4 and it had 31" tires from factory. Guess i got lucky so to speak. ;P I haven't gotten mine into anything she cant get out of stock. but i have only done mild mud uphill, and lots of snow so far. Its my daily so i dont wanna beat her up too bad. Pat

You just described my Pathfinder minus a thing or two. Bought it at with 154k on it, now almost 200k and still loving it, these things are little tanks man. Heck of a find. 400 bucks? WOW!!!! i gave 3k for mine in 08. I plan on driving it till something major happens and beyond if a local yard has what i need, and I am still able to turn a wrench. all i can say is WOW 400 bux pat

wow that is a lot of quoted cash for the little bit of work required for some of that work. for instance shocks what was it, 300? you can get them for about 80 to 100, and put them on in 20 minutes yourself. its 2 bolts per shock. most of the things on your list i could probably do in your driveway for less than 500 total and thats giving me 50 to 100 for my time. I have done most of those things to mine. let me see. valve cover gaskets yep, 20 bucks and 2 dollars worth of heater hose for the ones i cut in the back of the manifold because i was tired of jackin with it and couldnt get them off. while i was in there i did the plugs, wires, ect, ect. took some time the first time just learning what to do and shortcuts you have at your disposal but i could probably crack it off there and do it now in 2 to 3 hours. Repacked the front wheel bearings. "they were too far gone" so just changed them as i installed my manual hubs. Rear shocks, already talked about that. did all 4 brakes. "hate drum brakes" but oh well she needed them. I guess what im getting at is , if you let the stuff go for a long time the list gets long, but all the stuff you named off are just normal wear items. if you really love your pathy get another daily for cheap and bust out some wrenches and get her back in shape. the only 2 things i have left are front struts and a clutch/pp/throwout bearing. I have right around 200k Miles on mine and it still runs strong, i wouldnt trade her for the world. She has been one of the most reliable and loyal rides i have ever had. Pat

while you are finding your starter. (under the Pathfinder, Passenger side, where the motor and trans meet up.) I believe the above comment was correct about 2 bolts that go through the bell housing into the starter. anyways. While you are down there and after you disconnect the battery, be sure to check the wiring from the battery to the starter itself and make sure it is secure and none of the wires are burned, broken or other wise damaged or grounding out on anything. Other than that, sorry your starter died but ya, it happens. I think mine is still original. Seems to be ok so far, "knock on wood" Have a good one. Pat

Ok, here is the skinny of it. 15 is +V and ground in that area is 23 / 35. If you scroll up a page from where u were in the manual that page tells you about the speedo and some other stuff. As far as using one relay... /shrug depends on the relay current rating. I would put the illum on the current relay for that in your truck. if it burns the relay up, get a large rated one =) Took a little digging but ...there u go. Its after midnight, im hitting the sack. " still more fun speculating" hehe anywho. Hope you get your mod done, its pretty cool Pat