fixinto

dang, threw a rod. thats no good at all = \. did the same thing on a 305. clatter clatter. died. popped clutch at 60 to start it. clang clang. hole in the side of the block driver side just above oil pan. "root cause" old motor, and didn't have oil in it. so hopefully u didnt have an oil leak that went unchecked. but very sorry to hear it. On the bright side u have a "project truck now" if u can get u another daily =)

ya mine wouldnt budge on either side but it was more of a mild ickyness rather than change. i used scotch brite on em with wd 40 and work like a champ. Believe soft drink spills was probably the reason.

be sure u wiggle the wires where it plugs in at the 02 and the harness to make sure u dont have a bad connection. And post cat sensors on our vehicle has no effect on the engine control. im almost sure ur o2 sensor 1 swap outs will help ur gas a lot. we shall see

just something to chew on, i think on some vehicles the flywheel is different from an auto to a manual, so u may need a spacer so that your starter and such lines up correctly. /shrug. GL with that, it seems like a worthwhile thing to do. heck just find a 350z and swap ALL of it over. =)

may want to check for a vacuum leak, when you go over uneven ground maybe something flexes under there and causes a small gap to open, other than that, im with that other fellow about the loose sensor plug. =) Sorry i couldnt be of more help. have a good day

ya that sounds right. i think my thermo is like 190ish and when its doin right its just below the middle mark and dont really deviate from there. it will be getting warm soon and i can do several things to it that i have been needing to do. "all hoses, all belts, "including timing", possibly seals in the front of the motor, cam x2 and crank. and water pump and thermostat. probably knock it out in one go. shouldnt take more than....1/2 a decade or so ;P realistic if i dont have to do the crank seal, im thinking 3 to 4 hours. if i run into probs 8 hours plus, usually the way it goes. im sure everything will function normal after i throw that bag of parts at it. ps dont forget the belt tentioner for the timing belt.

oh and another thing that makes me think my thermo is stuck open "sorry forgot to include this i guess" when i ran the heater this winter, it actually made the needle go down so that usually a sure sign of a stuck open thermostat, im just happy it is stuck open rather than closed because i didnt want to mess with it till it warms up a bit.

well, in the winter time it never reaches it instead of the gauge being at 1/2 its at around a 1/4 but if we get days in the 50's it comes on upto half. winter time 10ish miles to get to a quarter, summer time bout 1 to 2 miles to start coming up. the main thing that concerned me is i can drive it 20miles at highway speed and the lower rad hose is still cool. i mean as in outside temp cool. like nothing is flowing i just did a rad flush a little while before winter. so maybe my water pump is on its last leg or something because the return hose is supposed to be "warmish but cooler than the top hose" if your rad is cooling the liquid. .../shrug maybe everything is fine and my pathy just is cold has a cold nature in the winter but im thinking there is something going on. my gas millage in the winter was 15 to 18. 18 was when i babied it hardcore. those numbers were after a complete tune up right before winter. before that it was 19 solid. so when the summer rolls back around it should go back up to 19 + because gas is a little different in the winter from what i understand. we will see. I know for a fact my fast idle cam "thermo element is toast" and the other day i was changing the radio antenna saw a pretty steady coolant leak and found it coming from the thermo element so i will have to yank the intake again and probably just unplug it and cap the connection. leak solved. i found a thermo element for 150 bux but fast idle at start up isnt worth that to me. ever since i bought it would start kindof trip out a little for 5 seconds or so then come upto idle speed. so im thinking the thermo element hasnt worked sinced ive had it. i have some upcomming projects comming up that i will try to document at least with pics, maybe some vid. i still havent figured out how to get the antenna into the cab i see the original grommet where the original power antenna goes, i will probably just cut it before the power antenna motor and splice it into the original antenna way easier than pulling the entire dash, i already loosened up the fender to get to where i needed to go. sorry to get off topic. take care guys

tnere u go thats the one i saw. Although my intake gets upto about 54 to 80 and my coolant never got above 177. but i think my therm is stuck open. i have the free version of torque and got the same readings. mine still went into closed loop tho, its been doing a lot better since i got a 2 and 1/2 inch chrome painted plastic crap bent at 60 degrees from the parts store. my little boot that connects the throttle body to the rest of the intake system had a small crack in it. ran fine, then it became a big crack and not so much. would be happy to buy torque but was laid off from my job friday so.....probably not right now.

Hey there just an update for you, i downloaded the free version of torque and ordered a wireless bluetooth OBDII reader. there is a widget in torque that actually tells you when you are in opened and closed loop. i would check and see that yours is switching over. I suspect i have a bad thermostat and mine still goes into closed loop after a decent warm up.

Without getting into too much detail, it would appear that there is a bracket on the front behind the pulley, "may or may not have to remove the pulley to get to the 3 bolts" and a bracket in the rear with 2 bolts. "bolts = fasteners" just depends on how you were raised as to what u prefer to call them. other than that i think thats about it unless you want a full description of how to get to that point. i would probably take off my radiator shroud so i didnt lean on it. they r brittle. "well my 96 is anyways" and for the belt u can undo the keeper in the front and adjust the "bolt" on the side right to loosen and left to tighten the belt. tricky to spot it if you have never done it. the fsm pic is a little vague. im not sure how to link the FSM or i would just do that, but the power steering pump section that i saw didnt really have instructions on how to get all the way down to it. just sortof an exploded view starting with the pulley and brackets. hope this helps u out.

Ya man, the vg33e has 2 also. one under the intake manifold a little "i think" and one in the top. been a while since i looked at that section of the FSM. but i remember i have 2 because i priced both @ auto zone.

ah man i posted a similar link over on the 96 to 2000 something forum called pesky tachometer, and ya a reflow fixed it right up for me, works like new, been a couple of days. i will update the link from time to time to let everyone know how the fix is holding up. but 150 bones, or 6 fasteners and 4 screws, ya, i put the work in on it. lol. have a good one

actually i just added flux to the old solder and reflowed it, i could tell what was cold because it came off the pad right when the heat touched it. so i added some solder to those spots, if i would have been thinking about it and not in a rush on my lunch break at work i would have included some detailed pictures. but ya if you wanna remove the solder thats fine, but i find it easier and way less of a pain in the butt to just add solder where needed and reflow with fresh flux. the joints turn out solid, and its less than half the work. Looked factory when i was finished, "probably better than factory" but i have been in the electronics repair industry for over 12 yrs. still yet, its very simple. just take ur time and dont hold the iron on the pad too long. hopefully that helps you out man.

Rock on man, happy i could help with that.

Anybody out there with a 96ish pathy that the tachometer just flakes out on you? I will give you a better description. At first i noticed that between say, 2400rpm and 2800 rpm it would...sortof skip or speed up a little through that range. it did that for i dont know, 8 months to a year. then last weekend i was sitting at a light, and it just pegged out past redline and 8k. i was like...um.... so i bumped the dash and bam, started working again. It didn't flake on me again for a few days then it happend again. bumping the dash did not help her this time. eventually it started functioning correctly, it was tryin to wind it back down as the RPM's would drop. well i finally got tired of watching it flake out ( lets face it, we love our tach's) hehe. Today on my lunch hour at work, i yanked the instrument cluster out of the dash and took the tachometer out and redid the solder on the back of the board. slapped it back in and bam works perfect. the "skip or speed up" from 2400 to 2800 even went away. Not real surprising considering the solder on the back of those bad boys is what? 16ish yrs old now. The whole thing was simple. just the 2 bolts holding on the plastic cover, the 4 bolts in the cluser, unplug a few wire harness plugs, undo a zip tie and you have the cluster in your hands. then pop off the clear plastic piece depressing the tabs delicately, *remember they r 16yrs old and plastic. Take the 4 screws out of the back and the tach pulls out forward. Then put some flux on..i dont know pretty much everything and reflow it. upto you whether you wipe the flux off or not. then put it back together in the reverse order. and there you have it. A fully functional tach without having to replace Jack or dook either one. bout an hour of your time. (thats taking care with the plastic cover on the dash and the plastic front of the cluster) probably do it faster now that i have done it before. Anyways if anyone has a tachometer that is bein a pain in the bum...well hopefully this will help you out. Have a good one ladies and gents, and keep on fixin her, because well.. she is worth it. Hopefully this holds up i will keep u guys and gals posted, but im pretty confident in it since it even fixed the skip. 187k and still rollin strong.

I have an additional question for you if you don't mind. Does your temp gauge come all the way up to normal operating temperature? reason being, a lot of times until the ECU reads the normal operating temp, it will run of preset data instead of reading your O2's, yes your ride will run, maybe not even that bad, but it runs way better and gets better mpg when its reading from the O2's. difference in open and closed loop pcm operation. hmm thats about all i have to add. have a good one.

I was messing around under the hood the other day when i noticed a rust hole in the inner fender well. My heart sank, i thought for sure i got away from the strut tower thing cleanly. (guess not) so i dropped her off at the dealer today and bam, one day turn around, they did the recommended Recall fix on her and she is good to go again. and yes part of that is the undercoating where they fixed it. anyways. I was worried i was going to lose my ride. But nope got it back in 7 hours.

PS, its easy to check and see if its out of adjustment too. just look at the marks on the fast idle cam itself and if your engine is warm and the marks do not line up. bingo

im not sure if your 98 has a thermo element for the fast idle cam but mine went out and caused me to chase my tail for a minute. similar issue. i just loosened the nut on the adjustment screw for the fast idle cam and backed the screw off all the way till the it wasnt touching my throttle linkage. good as new. =) when u first start it, u will get a sputter then the computer kicks in and revs it up till u get up to operating temp. hope this helps.

gotcha thought so but didnt want to assume. =)

i have a pretty good tip, unplug it and get a LOOONG wrench .../shrug not really any useful info hear, u can see it in your exhaust right before the cat. and driver side with all the gobbledy gook....maybe go in throught the fender well? sorry mine have held up so far so im not sure the best way to go about replacement

sigh ^^^^^^^^ just noticed that post was a thousand yrs old

did u tighten up the belt Tensioner before you started cranking it? Also i would turn it over gently by hand with the crank bolt and see if is interfering before i cranked it in the truck. tractor sound = bad. bent valves r no fun for anyone. hmm well maybe the machine shop, but thats about it. hehe. gl with ur project

which one is upstream sensor 1 or 2 or pre or post cat?