fixinto

do you have a timing light? 3rd stripe on balancer is 15 degrees btc. If it dont do it when you first start it up, Like before the truck is upto temp. that just says it has to do with the sensors and ecu or possibly timing. The ecu dont start reading the sensors till its upto temp. until then its in open loop.

Hey guys, i just wanted to post this because i had a little extra time before work. i made this video while i was reassembling the Upper intake manifold. forgive the quality its on my phone, and the lighting is my shop light. sorry. At one point i called the throttle linkage the TPS. again my bad. but if your looking to adjust your TPS and struggling with it. This is the easy way. im not sure if it copletely uploaded yet. but here is the link if you are interested. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrM1lQjJVn4&feature=youtu.be also the timer on my phone for how long the video has been running is upside down while the picture is right side up. didnt know this at the time. ":maybe i dropped it a few too many times": hehe. but u should still get the just of it.

OK, fellas as of 5:30am tuesday morning, SHE IS ALIVE...................ALIIIIIIIVE.!!! drove it to work one day with a power steering fluid cap over the EGR nozzle cause i couldnt get the stupid tube out of the ol exhaust lol. Was also throwing a bank 2 sensor 1 code. according to torque app the o2 sensor was shot so replaced it. Wednesday morning got the tube out, and replaced o2 sensor. put the tube on the egr. set timing and idle, and everything seems to be doing fine. I have a BUNCH of pics to post soon as i get time to sort em and post em. thanks for the support guys.

can u get it to knock if u rev it real quick at idle while not moving? if so possibly a motor mount?

one wanted 250 for the pressure test, machining if it was called for, and a 3 angle valve job. Took it to one that cleaned, pressure tested, made sure the heads were true, and put in new viton valve stem seats for 110. good stuff.

I have a 96, and so far, its pretty bullet proof as a daily driver with mild off road use. It really just depends on how well its been taken care of. only thing ive had to do to mine so far is a clutch, and battery in 5yrs. Has 190k miles on it.

Heads are at the machine shop. New upper end gasket kit came in this week, along with the knock sensor, head bolts and Driver side exhaust manifold and new lifters YAY! mr pathy will live again sooon!!!!!!!

Heck while he is at it tape a cheap LED flashlight or "zip tie it" hehe

You have probably moved on since your last post, but i will comment anyway. You probably dont need the copper sticky gasket stuff, the dowel pins (spelling ? ) should hold them in place while you put the heads on. The FSM says to pull the head with the exhaust manifold on it. to put it back in, if you dont have help or a hoist, u can get a couple of cheap ratcheting straps and cut a 2x4 to 56 inches and put it on the inner part of each fender with the ratcheting strap around the head so you can slowly lower it down and position it. worked pretty well for me being i was working alone and didnt want to muck up the gasket. sometimes it just pays to have an extra set of hands there =( Patrick

sounds like you have some sort of electrical whammy, couldn't tell you what because personally i haven't seen anything like that before.

nice, did u notice any significant gains in throttle response or anything?

im not sure of the year of your pathy, but a knock sensor does not throw a CEL when it is bad, mine has been bad since i have owned the it for 5 years and no CEL unless something else is amiss.

Sweet, happy its getting lined out for you.

Ok, heads are off and broke down and shiny and probably happy. "not sure about that last one because im not the pathy whisper'er"...................yet. Maybe, a small stress fracture in the lifter guide plate. *scratches head. other than that the heads seem good to go. Probably going to order new lifters and euro cams and just take it to the machine shop in the next payday or 2. Knock sensor has a massive crack down the front of it, so have to get one of those. Driver side exhaust manifold is cracked almost all the way around in two different places. Will update you guys again and try to get a bunch of pics and possibly a video or two if i can find someone with a steady hand that can rock a phone video of the re assembly for me. hard to find good help these days though =) Patrick

If you were able to adjust it down that far i would say the fast idle cam is not stuck on the high setting, "maybe it is" but that seems ok. the searching idle may just be the ecu having to adjust to the changes in air flow do to the throttle body cleaning and iacv adjustment i would give it a week and see what happens unless its throwing nasty CEL's at ya.

IACV on a 96 is under the upper plenum in the rear on the driver side. the little black box that has 3 tubes going to it is under the throttle body and ya, its a pain unless u take some stuff off, but the single tube running out of one side that goes to the underside of the throttle body is what popped off during mine, and i was getting the same exact things as the poor fella workin on his. " Also my thero element for the fast idle cam was bad"

^ amen to that, dont be directly under it and i highly recommend safety glasses or a scuba mask hehe.

Harbor freight has em, well at least around here, i bought one for 20 dollars when i had high idle issues after cleaning my TB also. And to get any real adjustment out of moving the dizzy u need to unplug the TPS. Also if you cleaned everything all shiney and happy. I hate to point out the obvious. But be sure your your high idle cam is working properly. Look in the FMS to see what its supposed to do. After that adjust the IACV screw at the rear driver side of the intake. "recommend a nubby phillips head screw driver". My TB looked like it hasn't been cleaned in years so i cleaned it while i was doing the valve cover gaskets. then i found out my cold idle cam or "thermo element" was jacked up and stuck at a higher idle than it should have been. Instead of dropping 150 dollars on it i freakin backed the screw out all the way till the little arm that pushes out no longer touched the "bent" bracket that adjust your idle on start up. that way its always the lowest idle it can be. when u first start it on cold mornings it will putt putt for a couple of seconds then the ecu kicks in and it goes upto 1200 or so. I was 750 on idle before the cleaning and after i was 1200 to 1500. After the thermo element thing was resolved i was able to adjust the screw on the idle air control valve to get the idle resolved. got it down to 725 at the moment thats where i prefer it. normal for manual shift is 750 plus or minus 50 so i just went on the low side. PS after you do the adjustment, if it doesnt run exactly right give it a week or so of just driving it, and it should calm down a little. Also check that small little crappy hose that plugs into the bottom of you throttle body inlet. very hard to miss but kindof easy to knock off. I hope my endless blather helped u out. but i have been where you are. Best wishes Patrick

I will get in on That. right bank or "passenger side" bank 1 sensor 2 ftw I have a 96 and thats the one that died on me, its more exposed to the elements coming from the underside of the truck than the driver side one.

If its running good ^ secondary O2 prime candidate

Update on the progress. I finally had a chance to pull the heads off. Oddly enough there is no damage to the top of the pistons or any of the valves. they have a good seal. I pored some liquid in each chamber and let it set while i was working on other things. Came back about 20mins later and the liquid was still at the same level as i left it. Needless to say the search continues for the....what I'm calling the "mystery knock" hopefully the bottom end of the motor is ok. but i don't see why it wouldn't be. I will update u guys as i progress through this, just in case any of you are curious. Thank you again for your input Patrick

Thank you to all u guys that replied and tried to help me out. I will keep you posted as best as i can on the progress. For those of you that are interested in knowing if i get her fixed or not. I have a loaner vehicle for the week, and next week too, so i have a fairly small window on the weekend to rip it back apart and pull the heads to get em to the machine shop on monday. I hope they arent too backed up, and i can get em back by friday at the latest to put them back on. Pat

thank you very much for the advice about how not to kill my heads after i get em machined. Yes sir i have the FSM. I counted the teeth,....sigh its a long story really, i tried to explain it in a reply to another post down bellow but like i said there, im not sure it was entirely accurate, thats just to my best recollection. I like the trick with the crank bolt. i tried it the first time and it kept throwin my breaker bar off. =( i did get it loose with the old AC compressor belt wrapped around the crank x2 and put through a leverage bar twisted tight and help with my right hand while i pushed on my breaker bar with my left. came right out. good idea on the cam gears also, i do still have the old timing belt and i will be sure to give that a try, it worked on the crank it should work on the cams as well. Again, much thanks for your time and advice sir. Pat

Ya I had the WP and thermostat on, I lined up the timing marks, the driver side was one tooth out, so i set it where it should have been, swapped the belt out and was getting ready to put the lower timing cover back on. The darn crank bolt got stuck and i couldnt get it out. I had a 28" 1/2 drive breaker bar on it, with part of the handle to my 3 ton floor jack for extra leverage. the issue I ran into was kindof stupid on my end, "at this point i had been up over 24 hours and was trying to get it done." so to say the least, it wasn't really my most shining automotive repair moment. I will try to explain how i killed my valves to the best of my recollection. I tried my chain wrench on the crank itself, and it slipped. so i put a 3/8 drive ratchet on the cam gears and wedged them to lock them in place, well instead of the bolt letting go, the timing belt skipped teeth. If i would have stopped there and reset everything i think i would have been ok. Like i said tho i wasnt really thinking clearly at the time. "funny about the hind sight" So instead of stopping and backing up the crank that turned and reseting the timing belt and tensioner, i gave it a couple of more pulls, i believe the 3 time it slipped i actually hurt a valve myself. more than likely the number 2 intake valve. After the third failure, i stopped to take another look at everything and noticed that the timing lines on the belt didnt line up anymore. " ok at this point what i should have done was stop messing with it, pull the belt off of the crank sprocket and back the crank up about 6 teeth and put the belt back on. then it would have been in time again. since the crank spun some but the cam gears didnt. but i didnt, i took everything another full revolution until i was TDC on the number one and then looked at everything. the cam gears lined up but the crank gear was about 6 teeth off. so i removed the belt and turned the crank till it was where it should have been, put the belt back on, counted the valleys in the belt from the crank to the drivers side cam gear mark. 43. so good to go right? i thought so, but when i started her up bad joo joo passenger side. so i think i hurt the valve when the cam was rotating because the belt wasnt holding it against all the torque i was putting on it. ya i know its all kindof crazy, but like i said not my most shining moment. so ya i killed it myself. and it kindof kills me in the face to think about it. the only thing left to do is take the heads off this weekend and get em out the the machine shop, and hope i didnt crack the piston when i started it up. thinks havent really been going my way of late so im not holding my breath. it could have went down differently, im not sure that im remembering the details correctly or clearly, the only thing i know for sure is the belt skipped, and tdc was on the money cause i shoved a straw with a shop towel wrapped around the bottom and taped in to the spark plug hole on number one. i turned it over and when the straw was blown out of the sparkplug hole, i flipped it over and put it back in the hole till it went all the way up, and then started down. then i backed up the crank a hair till it was all the way up again. Thank you for your time and your input, it is much appreciated Pat

I wasn't sure of the size, so i just grabbed a couple of bolts i had laying around and tried the threads. The 10mm went in smoothly with no slop so that is what i went in search of. couldn't find any that size to fit to the holes with the puller tool, so i just tapped the pulley to a 1/4 inch. bought 2 1/4 " x 4" bolts and pulled the balancer off fine. maybe the previous owner did a mod to it and didn't document it or something. /shrug. worked well though. Thank you for the info much appreciated. Pat