fixinto

It could go either way, and if there is a diode in the circuit u have to have a ground somewhere to complete the circuit. usually u can tell hot side by which way the diode is facing " depending of course on the type of diode". However sometimes diodes are used as a safety measure to keep an electronic failure "like a shorted sensor" from hurting something important so that isnt 100 percent. The only way i would give factual information on this is to grab my meter go out to the truck and meter it. So i just gave my opinion based on my experience and what i was looking at on the diagram. My electronics experience is extensive, automotive electronics, not so much, but wiring is wiring and electronics is electronics. Like i said before, a good way to know for sure is meter it. was just throwing in my 6 cents (inflation) on the matter. I may meter it this weekend just out of curiosity if nothing else, if i can find the time. Don't get me wrong, you disagreeing with me doesn't bother me at all, every man is entitled to their opinion. It is interesting if nothing else trying to make heads or tails of a half arsed wiring diagram. Kyle you can pick up a basic multi meter for 6 to 20 dollars depending on where you are. If you are doing any kind of electrical i recommend it highly. If nothing else grab a 5 / 12 v test light or something. it will make your life so much easier. ;P Anyways, have a good 1, hope you get it figured out Pat

Judging by how many things it is connecting together 15 could very well be ground, and all the other pins on the bottom side of the diagram are where the actual "hot" comes from when the said light is activated. It seems logical. Unless all of that stuff is activated by the bottom side being individually grounded by the ecu which dont really seem likely. "shrug" i didnt really wanna venture a guess without more information, is why i said meter it. but if i had to guess ^ Pat

I would say most of the load would be on your ign relay. If i were doin something like this, i would make the acc, activate the wipers, heater controls dash lights and such. the on position would kick the fuel pump and the ign would just be when u engage the starter. If you run it correctly the load will be on the relays and not directly on the wiring to your dash. Lookin at the frappy wiring diagram, pin 11, it looks like it may go to the brightness control nob of your cluster. pin 15. /shrug. i would hit it with my multi meter to see if it were hot when the key was in the on position. sorry i couldnt be of more help Pat

ya i have cleaned mine with a q tip and alcohol and improved the idle and response greatly. Some people dont let it cool off proper before they try to clean it. That could damage the wire, other than that, I have never had an issue cleaning a MAF. Pat

if you were not getting power, you jumped the harness, and have power and everything works. Find the wire in the diagram that supplies power and meter it for ohms, should be low ohms from the start to where it hooks up, it probably reads open. But an easier solution would just say screw it and zip tie the wire you used to jump the harness to the outside of the harness and leave it be. If its not broke anymore then stop fixin it ;P Pat

what did u do to it? ;P i dont know if they vg30's have a fast idle cam. but THEY SUCK. i would check that first if you havent done anything to it recently. have a good one p

Your fuel pressure regulator is wonkey or leaking slightly. A HUGELY WILD GUESS......honestly ....i dont know unless you have an injector that is partially obstructed or something..../shrug. interesting problem tho. have a good one P

U say that ur rpms dip 100ish lock to lock? I can put my pathy in neutral and turn the wheel about 15 degrees and get a bump UP 50 to 100 rpms. if its goin down maybe ur AICV isnt adjusting like it should. does your ride have evap could be a evap leak. misfire at low rpms that improves with rpm increase. runnin out of ideas here man, get er fixed lol. pat

check clean or change your PCV valve. .....the issue is a "stumbling idle"? drops below normal and kindof hunts for the proper place? does it do it when its parked and you dont have your foot on the brake? or is your foot on the brake? or dont matter......turn your steering wheel hard one way while sitting still and watch your rpms u should get a couple of hundred rpm bump in it if your IAC is working. its like the quick dirty check so to speak. ......k running out of ideas.....may wanna revisit that injector wiring, was the wires damaged? or just a loose connector. hope somethin i said helps, at this point im kindof blindly throwin stuff out there that could even remotely effect the idle lol. pat

i dont know if i told you this or not but where u were trying to put the feeler gauge was the wrong spot. anyways, did u get it lined out? hope so. I have a link to a crappy video i made about how to set your tps under the 96 pathfinder forum label of post " i killed my pathy" but i really didnt, it was a lot of work basically to just freshen up the lifters and change the timing belt, drive belts, rad hoses, water pump and thermostat. lol.... anyways hope all is well with ur pathy.

wasnt today but over the last couple of weekends i threw on rear drums and new brake shoes, front drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads, installed mile marker manual hubs, and repacked the front wheel bearings. oh ya, and broke my parking brake adjuster = \ cant find the front parking brake cable anywhere. Oh well, such is life.

clean your MAF. also if you replaced the TPS, use the wide open throttle pins, and get out a multi meter and feeler gauges and make sure it does what is supposed to. after you get it where you want it, Plug everything back in and start it up. if the idle is hunting, let the warm up to operating temp then shut it off. Unplug the TPS and start it back up, let the idle settle down then plug it back in. Snap the throttle a few times then give it a week or so to learn the new idle set position. Before you do all of that be sure that the Fast idle cam isnt flaking out and is functioning properly or at least set to where its always at the lowest throttle position. hmmm thats about it, hopefully this puts you on the right track. Pat

check the small vacuum hose that plugs into the back of your air box. there should be another hose that plugs in under your throttle body. Another good thing to replace is your PCV valve. easy to replace and if it goes bad in the wrong way, it can effectively cause a vacuum leak minor enough that your engine wont die, but will run rough and stumble at idle. EGR shouldnt be used at idle but if it goes bad can cause something similar as well. hope this helped u out in some small way. let us know what u find. Pat

purchased 1.bought grease to repack front wheel bearings 2. purchased drilled and slotted rotors and new ceramic pads 3. purchased rear brake shoes 4. finally bought my mile marker manual locking hubs. fun weekend to come ...yay...!!!

ya that would probably be the way to go. last i priced the thermo element, it was around 150, plus u have to take off the upper intake to get to it. so not really worth it. even with mine unhooked, when i first fire up even on cold days it fires right up and after a second or two the ecu adjust the idle to about 1200 till it warms up. so no biggy

np at all

or u can wait till your truck is warmed up all the way and everything should be correct, if not and it is functional, try adjusting it.

the fast idle cam, i just unscrewed mine till it didnt rest on the thermo element because it wasnt functioning. so disconnect bam. good to go. hope this helped

does it stall only in gear? when its cold, or after it warms up. I know you can unplug the TPS and it will fire right up because thats how u set timing or w/e. try unplugging your maf. see if it will idle. if so. clean your maf. unplug ur tps and see if it idles as well. and x2 about closed and open loop. i had an O2 bad and it just ran in closed loop and got crappy mpg until i could replace it. best of luck to ya

16 foot pounds

try checking your fuel pressure at the rails. Make sure its is upto spec. make sure none of your plug wires are laying against metal where a spark can bleed through if the wire is old or w/e and ground out. other than that. could be a couple of other things. but i would probably start there if it were me.

I just did something similar and I highly recommend changing them. I bought mine on eBay from a company based in CA. 37 dollars for all 26 of them

:aok:

ya x2 on the spinny knob thing being the most probable culprit