fixinto

Water valve? The one on top of the intake? Did u ever fix the problem? And you don't have to have the fan on while topping off, just turn it to hot.

Water valve? The one on top of the intake? Did u ever fix the problem? And you don't have to have the fan on while topping off, just turn it to hot.

Dont forget you have about an inch to an inch and 1/2 of adjustment where it hooks to the throttle body. Pat

If trapped air isn't escaping the tank it would fight filling it up as well. Evap purge valve charcoal canister and so on. I know it is a little vague but hopefully that is a decent place to start if you don't get it lined out. Pat

Ya probably just needed to sleeve the cam surface but don't matter now i guess. Pat

Thanks for the update, glad you got home safe and the problem solved. Pat

on 3.3 injectors they should be on the top of the injector. Anyone know the real difference between the colors? Is it flow or length or pin outs or what? Pat

Battery to fuse 59 and fuse 60, fuse 59 goes into the combo light switch on pin 5 R/Y wire. fuse 60 goes into the combo switch on pin 8 Red wire. outputs are as follows. Pin 7 R/B wire is passenger side low beam pin 10 R/G is low beam driver side. Pin 6 R/W is high beam for passenger side and R/L is high beam for driver side. that should give u all u need to fix it. "shortcut" skip fuses and switch all the way to the headlight. R/B "pin 2" to Black "pin 3" should give u voltage. If voltage is there wiggle the headlight connector at the back of the headlight and see if it lights. "skip fuses because the high beams would not work either if they were blown" if you have voltage at the head light and wiggling does not help, it is probably the bulb. Maybe your alternator had a spike and smoked em at the same time. /shrug Hope this helps man, i only had 3 to 5 minutes to look at it and another 5 minutes to post because i am on my break at work. Pat

Back brakes are more responsible for your brake feel than the front ones. Adjusting them correctly will stiffen up the feel a lot. other than that, if the lines are old and getting wore out, when u first hit the break the lines expand slightly and that will cause that squish feeling, pumping it makes it feel more firm because the lines are finished expanding so there is no "give" so to speak on the second pump. ;P Hope this helps P Pat head mother effer ;

On lunch and didn't have time to read all of the comments. Sorry if already said above. VALVE COVER GASKETS! ;P mine were leaking really bad and i could never find the oil trail because it was leaking out of the valve cover onto the header and burning off. When i pulld them out they were like hard platic instead of soft rubber. hope this helps at all man Pat

would probably blame it on a filter flow problem or if it has been a long time since it was changed i would entertain something broke loose and clogged the lifter rail or something like that, but more than likely it is the filter that collapsed internally and or the bypass valve didn't work. Glad it is clearing up for you though. Pat

ya leave that idle screw alone, its bad joo joo, the idle is in the back of the intake on the driver side but does sound like bad dizzy hope it worked out for u

Good Job sir. Bet your spark is a nice hot white now. =)

About the die when u put it in gear. does it die because of bad idle or does it seem like it is killing power to the Ignition? If i am not mistaken you mentioned die from park to gear, but not from neutral to gear. in that case it is probably a "switch" or sensor that sees it come out of park. Neutral safety switch maybe? not sure on an auto, i have crawled all over my manual xmission one, but just not sure about the auto. sorry. and keep in mind everything i am suggesting is just that, a suggestion. so if it idles rough and hard on startup, or after warm up that is all clues to what can be wrong. if it runs fine in the morning but idles crappy and dies at lights after its warmed up or seems to have a really rough idle after warming up, but smooths out with higher rpm that is classic symptom of a vacuum leak. so every seemingly minor detail could be important. either way, there is a way to check everything on that vehicle. so don't start throwing parts at it. it can get expensive fast. be sure to verify whether it is bad or good first. Plenty of utube material that is good about testing stuff out there. even if it doesn't specifically say it is for your vehicle it still applies in general to a lot of it.

If you are getting spark, thats good, it eliminates several possible faults, smelling fuel and having fuel injector pulse are 2 different things, also not starting on starter fluid is a big deal. So as said above it could be an air thing, or that orange spark should be a hot white spark and your new dizzy is not getting the job done. I would get a spark checker and see if it arks properly, because in some instances a weak spark is the same as a no spark. Try to unplug the M.A.F. and see if it will start. If you pull the plugs again and one of them is really washed down with fuel you may have a stuck injector. thats about it for me.

evap stuck open will make it run funny on startup or idle wrong or not start at all. also if the temp sensor is stuck in one spot how it drives in the morning will depend on weather because the ecu uses that to judge how much fuel to dump in on start up. hope this helps.

not sure if anyone else said this or not, but usually the flex plate and flywheel on the back of the motor are different. also the plate that separates the motor from the tranny may be different as well. so transfer what u need off of your old motor over to the new one. have a good one and good luck

I am not sure if you guys love it as much as i do, but i just LOVE it when folks post symptoms get suggestions and then dont update anyone on whether or not they resolved the issue. =\

The more symptoms you observe the better, more data = better diag. surging during warm up could be misreported fuel or air. Pull the plugs and see if they are wet and smell like gas. If not it is probably an air thing. The idle air control under the upper intake plenum causes problems when it sticks. so does the coolant temp sensor in the top of the lower intake. "there are two" one is for the guage and the other for the computer. "wish manufactures would just use the same one for both". would make life so much easier there lol. Anyways. Put ur hand over your tail pipe and make sure you get a good rhythmic thump thump thump from each cylinder. if not possible cats stopped up and motor cant breath. If egr is still in play, you could have a stuck open egr making a perma vacuum leak. could be a malfunction with the valve that controls the outflow from the charcoal canister making another "perma vacuum leak" sometimes you can hear an air flow sound coming from the fill cap area in that case, not always though so take that with a grain of salt. could be a lot of stuff. But narrow it down to too much fuel or air or not enough spark and you can go from there. Start with the stuff that is easy to check, idle air control, example...if you are idleing at operating temp turn the steering wheel and see if rpm goes up 50 to 100 "sometimes more" that is a quick and dirty for the idle air control. clean the MAF stuff like that. probably something relatively standard in the end. I am rooting for you. hope this helps some. Pat

Dirty MAF causes issues. At wide open throttle it does not apply because it goes to max duty cycle on the injectors. or at least a pre programmed max. so you could simply have something going on where it takes a wide open throttle ready to get any acceleration. check the ground on the MAF plug and clean the maf. dont clean it after the truck has been running a long time. let it cool off. that hot thin wire may not like cooling down quickly with maf spray. Whatever it is, you will probably know it if you find it. everything is check-able. do a check on suspected components.

uv dye works really well. as stated above. i would look under / around the throttle body. The thermal element for the fast idle cam gets bad and the seals leak. i dont live in a really cold area so i deleted mine. there is also some rubber under the intake. look on top of the valve cover under the upper intake.....but ya get a dye kit and go from there that is the fastest way to find a coolant leak that is making it outside your motor. as said above. Pat

YEP that worked for me a few years ago when it just started flashing for no reason. Pat

i purchased a brute force clutch from ebay i think. or brute power, or power force heck i dont know lol. works really well, was a whole kit with clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. had to do the transmission input shaft bearing while i was in there because of a noise that sounded like evenly spaced metal teeth rubbing on metal when i pushed in the clutch pedal sometimes. whole job was a minor pain in the butt to do by yourself, and yes nissan RTV's the spacer plate to the black and the trans housing so cut that before u yank on it. "if you do your own work" crank sensor is important to remove also pat

Don't let it go too long, it will burn up your flywheel. then u will need to do that too.

Not sure, very sorry.