fixinto

Good evening guys, I am currently in the process of replacing the clutch on the 96 Pathfinder. When i pulled the drain plug on the Trans, I had a large piece of metal in the drain pan, come to find out the input shaft bearing was toast, seems to be fairly common. Clutch was bad enough when i parked it, that it took out the Flywheel as well. So I figured while i am in there i will do all the stuff that is needing done and anything else I may Notice on the way, here is where i am at so far. 1. The clutch 2. Trans mount " to cross member" 3. Crank sensor, "my own fault more on that later" 4. U joints front and rear, "may as well while the driveshafts are out" 5. Flywheel "clutch ate it due to wearing past the grip material into the rivets before i could park it." 6. Rear main seal, " its time 216k" Needless to say it has been a journey, after being together for 20 years and 200k miles, a lot of stuff did not want to come loose or off or out. I am planning a pretty extensive write up on this including tools, tips and tricks, part numbers , and brands of parts i ordered, as well as where i purchased said items. All said and done, the write up should give you the tools you need to take this on yourself and skip a lot of the head aches that comes with something like this. Other than stuck fasteners of course, everyone has their own method of getting those out. Just a quick update to let everyone know it is coming, May be some time yet before i can get it together, i will have the truck back up and running again before i sit down to do the write up, so far i am all the way down to the rear main, i will be replacing that and installing the new flywheel / clutch tonight if everything goes well. Tomorrow i will be working on getting the input shaft bearing out and putting in the replacement. so a week or 2 maybe. Have a good one Pat

I had a fog light that was out, the connector was corroded where it plugged in, i just cut it off and hard wired it, soldered it, put some heat shrink tube on it. works fine. and has for 5yrs lol. keep in mind when i say corroded, i mean it was done. no saving it. pat

Yep,when the MAF gets dirty it causes all kinds of stuff. probably went into limp mode or something. strange how the vss crapped out at the same time. sounds like you found the just of it. happy to hear it. Pat

Yep,when the MAF gets dirty it causes all kinds of stuff. probably went into limp mode or something. strange how the vss crapped out at the same time. sounds like you found the just of it. happy to hear it. Pat

Ya i havent heard anything like it either, it is starting to smell an awful lot like a miscommunication or some simple trolling or something. im not sure our motors would run off of one bank. and if his cam really isn't spinning his valves would be smashed to bits. probably a troll.

np at all, happy you have it going, it is a killer tool for 30 dollars. Saves a lot of guess work about sensors Pat

try obd car doc. just DL the free version on your phone. Unpair the adapter from your phone, then re-pair it and try car doc. that way you at least know if it is the app or the adapter. If yours is a newer model nissan may have changed protocol. also, be sure the key is in the on position. thats all i have. hope you get it working pat

Go Go Gadget Factory service manual?

LOL, gotta hate that. But at the same time, at least it was easy, so you gotta love it too. The classic love / hate relationship. Glad you got her going Pat

was going to upload a pic of the elm, but i left my usb at work so that is a no go. I have the FW version and the numbers off the label though which is pretty much the same thing. it is as follows. ELM327, Part # 1008 Firmware Revision: 1.5 Baud rate: 38.6k hopefully that helps you out. Bought it off of Amazon 3 maybe 4 years ago for 30 bones to the door step. Pat

Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good, happy you got her going bud.

sounds like you have a bad connection on the ground. "or the hot" If you probe the connector without the speaker hooked up it should show you the voltage if it is there. while the meter is hooked up to the connector, wiggle the harness where it plugs into the speaker and where it plugs into the amp, see if there is an issue that you can duplicate with the "wiggle test". find where the shared hot / ground is hooked up and give that a wiggle also. the wiggle test should get you in the ballpark at the very least on a problem that is a connection issue. Also check the mini amp / hi pass board to make sure you don't see any cracked solder joints at the connectors. make sure there is no debris laying on the pcb taking the signal to where it isn't supposed to be. If you have a solid power source and a solid ground with no increased resistance do to a loose connection or bad wire, as well nothing laying on the board or no cold solder joints where it is powered or goes to the speaker, it should be working. the wiggle test is more of a quick and dirty type check. but being that it works sometimes and has voltage and then doesn't work with 0V it works, just not all of the time. so has to be a loose wire / connector / cold solder pretty much. hopefully you get your tunes going. to answer the question about running it to your head unit. yes. just run speaker wire from the head unit over to the speaker bypassing the mini amps / hi pass filters. you can substitute capacitors in series with the hot wire for the high pass filter, some quick google research will get u close for the cap values. "probably wouldn't use polorized ones, go with the bidirectional if you go that route, but i am hoping you can find the problem and get it going because bose are supposed to be a really nice sound setup. pat

Yes sir, give me till tomorrow afternoon to get a pic of it and get it uploaded. Worked late so i didn't get the question till just now, sorry bout that. Pat

return line will probably be dry until you apply vacuum, then it will regulate the pressure at idle. If the engine fired fine, but had a fuel leak, you replaced the lines, primed the system, now it wont start, the obvious answer is double, triple, quadruple check your work. i have a couple of questions for you. did you remove the fuel line at the rail when you replaced the lines? how long was it off? is it possible something got into the fuel feed line to the rail while you were working on it? did you remove the negative post on the battery while you were working on it? can you start it by spraying starter fluid into the intake? i would recommend checking the fuel pressure at the feed line, all because the fuel pumps all the way through the line doesn't necessarily mean that the pressure is high enough to fire the motor. If you replaced the filter while you were working on the system, are you sure that the filter is on properly? (they are directional) which if you undertook this project, i am sure you already knew. are you getting fire to the plugs? taking out a wire and using the screw driver in the end leaned up against something metal will let you know. I believe you have a fuel pump fuse which is good if it is priming and pumping fuel, also you probably have a relay under the hood which is also good if it is priming and pumping. Hard to say without more info on what you have checked. hopefully something i have said at least gives you a direction to pin down the problem. Keep giving feedback, and i will continue to try to help as best i can. good luck to you bud Pat

If it is running correctly, and there are no Trouble codes, or CEL, i wouldn't sweat it personally. =P

Been a while since i through one up so what the heck.

how do you know the passenger cam isn't spinning at idle? that is the strangest thing i have ever heard. there would be bad joo joo if that were the case because the pistons are still moving, the only way it wouldn't hit the valves is if all were closed, in that case power / idle would be very different than normal. the only way i can think of it not spinning and not have a ton of clatter is if the follower holder was never torqued down to put pressure on the cam lobes and open the valve. /shrug you got me on this one unless something is going on under the timing cover, in which case, the idle / power would suffer again. so i have no idea. interesting and yet just so very wrong. lol Pat

I use the ELM...something or another from Amazon, it works fine with my android phone. U have to sink it to your phone and then in torque if i recall. it was 30 bucks shipped from Amazon a few years ago, black plastic with blue sticker. I switched from torque to to OBD car doc, another free version of a similar app, it reads the O2 in my VW where as torque would not. but as far as the pathfinder, the ELM and torque worked fine. after it is synced to the phone, plug it into the OBD port and then turn the key to the on position, fire up torque and you should be good. pat

Seems pretty close to me, the most i saw out of mine was 21mpg. most of the time 19mpg but it was about 2200rpm hwy driving with a little town mixed in every day. seems like your PF is workign well. as far as the android cal, just make sure you enter your vehicle weight, and the engine size, and it should be fairly close. I switched over to obd car doc, because torque wouldn't read the O2 on my VW. but i used torque a long time and seemed to work fine on the PF. Pat OBD car doc seems to update faster

Started it, turned it around and aired up a tire. It has been sitting since March due to needing a clutch. soon perhaps. cash is tight. i do start it once every couple of weeks or so.

Yes it is a pain to get to the bracket that holds the dipstick guide, there is a lot in the way. I agree with the fella up top about having the shop fix their mistake. Or if you don't feel like the pain dealing with them, it seems like it would be easier just to loosen up the pan bolts during your next oil change, pull the dipstick, tighten the bolts back up and install the dipstick. like 20mins extra work max. Gasket should still be good if they actually used a new one instead of RTV. That is why i do the work myself if i can, I am not going to pay someone a large sum of $ to mess up my Pathfinder, i can do that just fine for free ;P Pat

When you replaced the ECT sensor which one did you replace? the one for the gauge or the one mounted in the lower plenum. If it stuck in a condition that reads "warmed up" it would cause what you are talking about. Fuel psi sounds good, wouldn't sweat the O2 sensors as you stated they are not in play until high 140F. If plug wires are bad it will usually miss all of the time, not just when it is cold. If it were me i would plug in my 30$ obdII reader and turn on torque and see if it is in closed loop on start up. If so it would be the sensor in the lower intake. Also if you want to do a quick and dirty check of your IACV, bump the steering wheel one direction and then stop and the other direction. make sure the idle increases a little bit when u start turning, works best if you are sitting still and not rolling. turn on the AC "if it is functional" it should bump the idle up to compensate for the load. if it idles up under those conditions, it is probably OK.

Well, something was bad for sure, not sure if it was the Dizzy "AND" the FP, sounded like you were losing fuel, or spark. who is to say which, i would lean toward fuel. Still not sure why you dropped the tank considering all you had to do was look under your back seat on the driver side and remove the pump that way. "most vehicles dont make it that easy". the funny part to this entire thread "and the other one" is you never changed what the engine code was.... either way, happy you got it going.

warmed her up to operating temperature, turned her off and locked the door. Trying to move and saving for a Clutch kit. My clutch is barely hanging on by a thread. Driving the other ride i acquired earlier this year. Every time i get close to having the $ for the clutch kit, front trans seal, rear trans seal, and rear main seal. "figured what the heck while i was in there" the car i drive gets jealous and something breaks on it. SO there goes half of my fund.....sigh...... hopefully i will get moved soon and can just bust out some crazy OT and grab this stuff. If you guys want i will take as many pictures as i can during the work and try to make something for the garage section. pat

Did you have any luck with using a grabber, or extraction tool to get at them? If they are brass i am not entirely sure they are magnetic. would be sweet if they were though. =) probably bounced off the top of your pistons and beat the crap out of the valves, maybe cylinder walls ect... hopefully you can get them out of there. they will probably look like a little brass ball from being bounced around in that heat. If you do find them, and you think the damage is minimal, don't forget to loc-tite all the rest of them, and the replacements. be a shame to have to do this again in a couple of months / years. GL with her, please keep us updated. and thank you for the pic Pat