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fixinto

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Everything posted by fixinto

  1. Good Jerb, love seeing a small cut in a hose rather than it being deeper. It is recommended to change the bypass hose, water pump, thermostat, and so on, all at the same time. THAT IS WHY RIGHT THERE!!! Again, great jerb finding it and fixing it. thumbs up pat
  2. similar things happen around here all the time. Only the jerk offs will get in the "right turn Lane" skip about a block of traffic and then try to cut in. I record my drives every single day with a free app called AutoGuard, got a universal phone mount have it on my windshield just under my rear view. Even if someone wants to merge you are not obligated to make room for them. If there is no room for them to get in, they should wait, not ram into your care. so the "NO FAULT" is BS. KY is a no fault state too. Basically its a get out of tedious paper work law for the officer, he figures insurance will sort it out. in the end a guy just trying to make it through a light gets shafted because some jack ass wanted to cut him off. soooo VIDEO DONT LIE. Every accident i have ever been in, even if the person was like ohhh totally my fault before the cops got there, after the cops get there their story changes and they lie. So i never go anywhere without my app on. no more BS no more court, no more "no witness" . Now there is always a witness. ;P Like many other folks have said. Junk yard fender and light cover, after market bumper, fabricated or bought and bam better than ever. I am very sorry this happened to you, believe me when i say i have been there i hate it for you. People need to learn driving like D**** Heads is bad for your teeth. They would have learned during my last "accident" but they wouldn't get out of the car. Driving is a privilege that only 8 percent of the entire world enjoys. People need to stop acting like you owe them something and should bow down to their wishes. Merge if there is no room stop. dont pass in the turning lane. Dont brake in the drive lane then switch to the turning lane. "STUPID" drives me nuts. Put your phone down and drive. that about sums it up lol. AGAIN sorry. it sucks man. Pat
  3. No idea man, would recommend downloading the factory service manual and try to figure out what matches up and what dont. Go from there
  4. what k9sar said. when the crank and cams are lined up with the marks on the pulleys and the dimples on the "rear plate" behind the pulleys ur good. "crank mark is hard to see where it lines up" that is where the teeth counting comes in. from the mark on the crank to the driver side mark on the cam pulley is X amount of teeth. "x" being 43 i think but don't quote me, it is too important to take my word for it. GL
  5. as far as i know, there is a signal to open the EGR valve and as long as it opens when the ECU tells it to you are ok. Don't think a resistor will work since it is looking for a response from a component.
  6. thermal element. The way i knew mine was sticking is as such: warmed up pathy to operating temp. after it was fully warmed up, i looked at the marks on the idle cam and the position of it. when i saw it wasnt rotated to the warm position, i unhooked it completely and fired the pathy up. idle dropped down to normal. all fixed. hehe
  7. ya it will misfire if the bearing is going bad
  8. i know a bad lower balljoint will cause stiff steering not sure how bad it would have to be to completely freeze up though. i would put my money on the rack or the sensor fixing it. but just throwing out another option to check.
  9. either your idle air control valve is sticking, or you cleaned the throttle body recently, or the high idle cam is stuck and needs to be unhooked. Top 3 guesses there. To check you idle air control valve bump the steering wheel left or right with the clutch in while at a complete stop, rpm should rise about 50 to 200 rpm. visually inspect the cold start or high idle cam, there are marks on it for warm and cold. get a free fsm and look it up in there for a better explanation of it. if those two things don't work out. i would put the money on the idle air control valve which is located under the rear of the upper intake plenum. If you do end up having to change the IACV it is a great time to throw new Valve cover gaskets on it. Hope it helped u out. Pat
  10. didnt really see anything that said different in the manual. yours could be 750 too. maybe what the fella said ^ about the idle air control
  11. auto idle is 1k? manual idle 750 + - 50
  12. short version he will still be fine going down the road ;.P
  13. a nubby wrench, and 14mm 3/8ths socket and ratchet. bout an hour and some blood sweat and tears later, and BAM she fires off. good feeling aint it?" congrats and good for you man.
  14. going up a few inches in tire size will simply make less rpm on the interstate at speed. less torque or pull at lower rpm range but it wont be drastic like you cant move or anything. 3 inches will probably give you somewhere around a 3.8 or 9 i know 1/4 mile guys that run 3.73 so you should be fine. back in the day of 3 speed transmissions 3.08 were common in the rear. short version you are fine. less rpm on interstate, speedo reading wrong.
  15. cut mine out of a gasket making kit i got local. got my iacv from a wrecking yard. 20bones instead of over 100. also deleted the hose to the thermal element since mine hasnt worked in a million yrs and was leaking well did a bypass loop i should say. p.s. no rtv on gasket, works fine
  16. my 96 just has the strut mount to the knuckle and the upper body of the spring / strut goes to the strut mount built into the body, just put on some gabrial ready mount struts that came with the spring bearings and strut. bout an hour per side if ur bolts are on there good like mine were lol. one was bad so i put the old one back on till i can send it back to rock auto though, pissed me off. do have rancho 5000 on the rear. love em.
  17. mine did the same thing, seems to depend on how dirty it was. There is an idle adjustment screw on the driver side toward the firewall on the intake manifold. Use a PHAT phillips screw driver so it dont strip its only plastic and kindof old. right or clockwise to lower idle.
  18. When my clutch went bad it would just rev up to like 3k rpm when i was doing 45 in 5th, there was no shuttering. Has your clutch been slipping at all? at this point it could be anything, not enough air, wrong air reading not enough fuel and so on. Usually fuel pumps run worse when they warm up, so that could account for the 10 miles with no issue. Or the infamous temp sensor went bad. Fuel pressure, bad sensor for temp, or clogged fuel line. a couple of basic tools and a little research can help you trouble shoot the problem. Pat
  19. ive had my pathy for about 9 years, the boots have been ripped since i bought it. About 3 or 4 years ago i put manual hubs on it, cv's are still going fine. need to get them out of there and boot kit them or replace them eventually i guess. Pat
  20. sounds like the temp sensor reporting the wrong temp, and the injectors responding accordingly. in the 3.3 the one you are looking for is under the intake plenum. the one on top is for the gauge. also there is a switch on the evap system that sticks open and that will cause the same symptoms. if i had to make a guess, and its only a guess since i am not there to messure the resistance of the sensor or see if the switch is working properly, i would say it is one of those 2 things. When my fuel pump was weak earlier this year it would start, and idle but if you touched the gas pedal it would die. hope you get it sorted out, and remember, don't waste a s-ton of money throwing sensors at it, everything can be tested. I highly recommend either taking it to a "good" and "fair" qualified mechanic, or testing the items yourself before replacing. If you just throw parts at it, you may end up spending more money in the end than if you would have simply taken it to a mechanic. an example is, a temp sensor reads x amount of resistance based on the temp outside. if you ride is cold and you measure the resistance at 100 ohms "for examples sake" and the air temp outside is 32F. after you warm your ride up, the resistance should be significantly different when it is 90F under the hood. A 6 dollar run of the mill multi meter can accomplish this for you. the person that suggested cleaning the throttle body up top wasn't a bad idea either. if it restricts air flow the air wont match the fuel so it wont run. very cheap and easy to do, tons of vids on utube about it, just dont dump a crapload of carb cleaner into the intake, may not be good. some people like to clean them while the vehicle is running. just be careful not to get into anything if your shroud is missing. go go gadget "throttle body cleaning" utube. =) hope i helped you out some. Pat
  21. .09amps dont seem that bad. i am not sure what mine draws sitting. havent ever had to check it. i have seen draws of .3amps with the vehicle off, that was a bad one. again i am not sure if 90ma is horrible or not. maybe your alternator isn't charging fully or your battery has a bad cell that continuously leaches the charge? the 300ma one was a bad diode in the alternator and the battery was leaching backward to ground. be sure to clean the top of your battery of dust and debris, believe it or not that crap is conductive, you can get a v reading from the negative post to the top of the battery if it is dirty enough. Good luck, i hope you get her sorted, car problems in the winter are no fun for sure Pat
  22. almost forgot, need the pilot bearing for the xmission input shaft to mate to the motor. hmm i am sure i am forgetting something but that is all the info i have.
  23. I have a 96 SE with a manual. If you swap a manual into your ride there are a few things to consider. I saw one person mention some ecu differences to get around that i would probably ninja the ecu out of the manual truck u pull your trans from if you get it at a yard. (just an idea) not sure if the trans sensors are the same or in the same location. but what i do know is the spacer between the block and the trans is different so you will need to take the spacer and the flywheel off of the rig u pull the trans from. You may want to grab the radiator too because an auto has provisions for trans cooler lines. "probably just plug them up in your radiator" also the lengths of the trans itself may be a bit different requiring the drive shaft out of the manual trans vehicle. mine has 4.63 gears and is 3100rpm at 70mph when everthing is doing well i get about 21 hwy and 13 to 15 city depending on traffic. was getting 19 before i put on manual locking hubs and did a bit of work to the exhaust , intake and heads. Pat P.S. that beast is heavy a F*** with the tfer case on it. plus @ least on my model nissan was nice enough to rtv the spacer plate to the block and the bell housing, after all the bolt were out i had to do the new jack swing on the back of it for about an hour to get it to let go. "be sure you pull your crank sensor before the trans, dont ask me how i know"
  24. Are the back brakes drums on the 02? Rear brakes and proper adjustment is responsible for a lot of the pedal feel on your brakes. If you saw a leak around the master cylinder i would probably start there. Just as a cautious side note, be sure it isn't spillage from someone adding fluid. Also you can leak fluid at the wheel cylinders for the drum brakes in the back. "its like a 6 dollar part on rockauto". Hope you get it straightened out. When i did my brakes a 3 years ago i ordered a set of drilled and slotted rotors and pads for the front and it was like 105bux for the whole set. ebay ftw. hehe repacked the bearings recently because she was sitting for a while. pads and rotors both were still mint! like brand new. i was impressed. good luck PAt
  25. Will give all of the details after the job is done. Right now i barely have time to even turn my computer on, only have 1/2 a day or a day on the weekend to tend to the clutch replacement, and sometimes really late at night. But its coming, just hang in there till i get er done. Pat
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