Karmann

I'm curious about these throttle spacesrs too, I think it depends on the application as to whether it actually makes power or not.

Same here! That resonator was worthless, I went with the 18" Magnaflow and had the shop put it as high as they could to help with clearance.

I'm pretty certain the Rola will work, Stioc has a canopy on his with no issues so far as I know.

The question is, does it need a racing harness?

Oh and I forgot to mention, Craigslist, the gift of the gods, is an excellent source! Just wait and jump on whatever you like.

I've heard the best flow is a 2.5, because with our little V6s, we have to walk a line between flow and backpressure. Too big and power drops, but you should be safe with 2.5. Personally, I really hate side exit exhausts unless it's on a Cobra, Viper, 32' Ford, Shelby Mustang, Trophy Truck or something that has the power to back it up. If I could do it all again, I would have twin pipes out the back of mine, though I love my mellow tone.

Discountramps.com has some pretty decent deals, look on Amazon too. Depends on the style, what's your price range? Do you want the basket kind, or Yakima style?

I haven't towed much with mine, but I've had it loaded down on a trip around UT, WY, and ID from SoCal- it does just fine so long as you keep it up in the powerband. I had a rooftop cargo carrier, and again, lots of luggage etc in 115*F with no trouble. Same goes for a trip up the coast to Eureka- 1k miles and had no trouble doing 85 with a motorcycle on a rack on the trailer hitch. Stock pathies are rated to 5k, just make sure you have the right hitch (mine is a Draw-Tite Class IV) and you ought to be ok.

Just out of curiousity, what is the advantage of Poly bushings? Someone mentioned it feels "tighter" could someone expand? Also, what is the usual service interval? I have 91k, am I getting close to replacement time?

That's intense. Looks like Riverside lately (Our brothers and sisters to the East were pounded with flash floods)

Well in that case... I think I may just save my pennies for a while. Is there anything by way of bump stops that might help?

I hear ya! But if I'm not mistaken, I think HIDs draw less than an incandescent/ halogen counterpart?

I like those, but would they help with bottoming out? I'm trying to think, I mean, if it bottoms out at this amount of travel and spring height, I would think just essentially extending the top of the spring wouldn't make a difference? And to an earlier comment- are the pre-facelift springs a higher spring rate?

Here is my setup: Rigid Dually D2 Spots, and some little cube fogs pointed outwards to illuminate the rocks etc. They did an excellent job illuminating in a dust storm in Anza Borrego. Very happy. Total cost for all 4: $220 Any details on the Headlight HID swap? Have you aimed them so they're not blinding to oncoming traffic? (Aka, will I get pulled over )

The cars of that era were rudimentary by today's standards, but intensely durable. As on my 31 Ford Model A pickup, pretty much all cars of the era were purely mechanical- no servos, computers, or even hydraulic systems. There were no computers to fry, filters to gum up, disk brakes to clog, shocks to blow, coilsprings to unseat, ignition systems, intake manifolds, abs, radial tires, aluminum construction; none of it was there really, or it was in it's early stages. This was a time when even starting a car without using a crank was rather novel. They were simple and low powered- basically high speed tractors with skinny tires in big radiuses (pizza cutters FTW!), with cast iron everything, but specifically motors, and steel that could be used on a battle ship. Amazing vehicles, thanks for sharing!

Doesn't bother me that much considering my mirrors are powered, heated, and fold. I'd expect them to be a little complex to replace. The door cards should be an easy takeoff anyway.

I have Phillips Xtreme-Power 9003s in my headlamps- huge difference there. I covered my fogs with a yellow lamin-x film, and stock bulbs. (waiting for alternatives) Overall the stock output is decent, but since I needed more for exploring the desert, I installed some Rigid Dually Spots in my bumper, with small pod fogs as something to light up the rocks etc. Very happy with this setup!

They should've given you a discount, considering you probably saved them time, money, and return headaches.

^ It's always good to know someone out there is knowledgeable about their rig, but so disheartening when they're rather illiterate.

Hmm... I may just do that when the $$ time comes, have a shop assemble the strut and spring and then do the rest myself. It's comforting that the rear is so easy, though I definitely won't replace the shocks, they're less than a year old, and Bilstein so they ought to be good for a while. I wish I had the cash to swap to Ironman all around right now, but school and the gf take precedent.

That still hasn't stopped anyone from calling mine a 4runner My ex-gf asked once if it was a Hyundai...glad to be done with that.

Ok thanks for the help so far. Again, what is the correct factory height for a 2002 R50 SE? Because mine sits level at all four corners, and if that's factory then I could assume my springs are fine right? Also, the main reason I won't lift the rear and not the front is because I really hate the stinkbug stance, and would have to lift the front at the same time- $$$. Because I really had a bad experience with a spring compressor, I'm just leaving that kind of front install to the "pros."

When basic parts are junkyard gold digging at its best.

Any direct link on these? I would love a picture Also, here's a question, how are these supposed to sit? Because I have equal measurements from all fenders....