bushnut

thanks for the clear up!

interested in seeing where this goes. let us know what you found to have been the problem. and congrats on wanting keeping your old truck running.

before the cat. passenger side.

I don't mean to sound rude but... there is a store where you can buy a computer and have you internet access but no store where you can buy a simple C-clamp? I suppose I just take some things for granted. no disrespect intended.

I will agree with what REBELORD said. do a full tune up type job...fluids, spark plugs, keen the MAF. don't for get the diffs. check air pressure regularly. as far as the Royal Purple goes, I have no first hand experience. I do run Mobil 1 High Milage, It tends to keep the engine running nice and quiet and after switching to it the first couple of changes were quite dark at change time. It is noticeably cleaner now. hwy speed is important as well. I've notice a huge difference in milage between driving at 100km/h and 120km/h (60-75mph) temperature is important as well. My fuel milage in winter is half of what I get in summer. As far as the O2 sensors, you have 4. Two in the intake manifold and 1 in each exhaust manifold. they measure oxygen levels that allow the ECU to adjust air/ fuel mixtures. they are part of the emissions system. I'm not sure if you can delete them.

why not just go the local hardware store? buy local help your economy.

sounds like a true Minnesotan.

I'd say do it yourself. get a haynes manual. it helps. the job is frustrating at times but not overly hard.

could be the strut is dead, they don't last forever and heavy duty springs may shorten their life. but I'd also check the sway bar end links and such. one thing at a time and narrow it down.

I'd say it'll last about the length of one lemans race.

my bad! oh so many numbers to remember!

As a proud R50 owner heres my 2.5 cents. It has clean lines, great ride, comfortable driving position, ample room for all my camping crap and my dog. a shift on the fly 4x4 system that has a true low range transfer case, even with crapy tires its unstoppable in the snow. Good on road manners and surprising off road even in stock form. very easy to work on, not a lot changed between 96 and 2004 so lots of Junk yard treasures to be found. usually priced much lower than a 4runner! very reliable has never failed to start for me even at -40*C with no block heater. heres the bad. Northern trucks will suffer from corrosion. especially around fender wells and rear hatch not to mention rocker panels. the kill is corrosion in the main unibody subframe around the front struts (factory recall info is available). the 3.3L VG30e engine is very reliable and bomb proof. though a little underpowered and thirsty. In 2001 there was a change to the 3.5L VQ engine. more power! but with it's own issues, namely the auto transmission has coolant lines from the rad in it that tend to fail. there is a very easy work around. An external tranny cooler is a must upgrade. not as simple to work on as the VG30, but with more power comes more responsibility. Unlike the WJ there is very little aftermarket support. I would say almost none. As you enjoy moding things spend some time on this site to see what is possible. being creative helps. The head lights are a little weak. though again an easy fix if you do your research. would I buy another one if this one needed to be replaced?....... yes though I'd most likely look for a newer VQ powered one with a manual transmission.

sounds like a heater core issue or more seriously a radiator issue. a running engine makes heat, those to things take heat away. If you are not getting heat into the cabin it could mean bad things. does the temperature gauge read proper operating temperature? my advice is to take it to a qualified mechanic.

remember if you are doing a lift it is a good idea to install longer than stock rear shocks. I made the mistake of not installing longer shocks in the rear and as a result the stock length KYBs were always at full extension all the time and not allowing the rear axle to droop as it should into holes. I have since installed Bilstien 5150s and the ride is much better. As for springs I did Iron Man and like Karmann I'm very happy with them. they did 35mm of lift in the front and allow for 400lbs over stock in the rear. the ride quality is fantastic.

I think you've answered your own question brother. my only suggestion is to go through all the bolts involved in your recent suspension upgrade and re-torque everything!

245/70/16 is stock on my 2000. lots of clearance to the strut perch. you should be fine with a 75 series tire.

I'd recommend the IronMan springs if you have to replace your stock springs. they will only lift the front 35mm so with spacers you can lift to about 2" and not change CV angles out of spec. the rear will lift close to 2" even without spacers. more importantly it will allow higher payload without sagging, while maintaining a great ride quality. Remember to replace rear shocks with longer than stock if lifting.

I think is was steve from rugged rocks.

good news, shop down the road replaced my t-case output shaft seal for only $135.00, parts, labour and tax! though it did take them 7h to do it. apparently it took them 3 tries to order the correct seal from the parts depot across town. I can't believe they only charge $80.00/h the bike (bicycle) shop I work at charges $60

in the heavy truck industry they have "glue on" heater pads for transmissions,diff and the like. Looks like I'll be investing in those for next winter. Good news is that tomorrow it's supposed to warm up to -15 and single digit highs on the weekend so I'm going camping. I'll post pics when I get back.

what does the auto leveling switch do?

I knew something bad would come of all this cold. went to start the truck this morning and noticed an oil slick on the snow under the drivers side. The T-case output seal has been weeping for awhile but I guess the cold did it in. looks like the ATF fluid got thick enough in the cold to push out the seal. must have happened yesterday morning. It's too cold to do the work on the street myself so I'm having a shop do it tomorrow. unfortunately it'll cost me about $200.00 for a $20.00 part. hopefully I haven't ruined the T-case.

being a Professional tech, can't you buy parts at whole sale? poly bushings are supposed to last longer.

how does it start now? if it turns over you should be alright. this morning.....-36*C with a wind chill of -50*C.....I like winter and all but I'm getting tired of this. when you take your hands out of your glove it actually hurts.

at those temperatures you'd better have another cold beer so you don't get de-hydrated!