MatterHorn

hmmm ... well if it were me I would check to be sure that all the timing belt cover bolts are tight, then I would check the clutch fan, alternator, a/c pump, and power steering pump by removing/loosening the belts and rotate the pulleys by hand to see if you can duplicate any of the clicks ...

look up some parts recycling centers and call them to see if they have an instrument cluster or two for your vehicle ... that is what I would do before ever considering a NEW one from the "stealership"

then it is probably just the connector for that window that is not connecting some how ...

there is always something isn't there? ... lol ... I have no idea how many bolts I had left ... I was just surprised I had any left ... about the nerf bars, I would ditch them for now until you can either mod. them or get some sliders made ...

would the speed of the clicking noise be similar to lifter noise or possibly injector noise? ... or maybe just a bearing rattling in the alternator or something ...

just got these things today for 80 bucks a piece ... cant wait to put em on ... just to check with you guys, before I get going all this, I wanna make sure that I have everything right ... I should get new bearings (they haven't been done since I have owned it), grease seals, grease of course, brake pads (any recommendations on that)... thats all that I can think of ... oh and on the bearing nut tool, does anybody know of a place that I can get that tool from? i'd rather not tap it tight with a screwdriver ... i'd like to make sure that I get it right ... thanks guys!

its like a resonator tube ... basically to tune down the noise from the air filter ...

patented

they are two different body styles yes ... but everything is identical in the kits ...

sweet deal dude ... welcome to the ranks of lift ... congrats!

I dont remember what goes to what, but all I really remember about it is that I had a crap load of bolts left over ... the body of my rig hasn't fallen off yet so I think it would be safe to assume that it is going to be just fine ...

check all wires, and grounds from your starter first - if their is any sign of corrosion, you will need to do something about those wires ...

yes

first off that line on your first pic is the breather hose for the tranny so it doesn't build up hot gasses and has a place for water to evaporate out of and keeps the air source above most water levels ... secondly, I personally didn't have to extend the shaft on my Pathfinder ... just make sure that you loosen both sides of the collar, spray it like said before and lift slowly ... then when you are done, test the steering to make sure that you dont feel any binding of sorts ... if you feel a little bit, you may just have to hammer the shaft OUT a little more ... but not much ...

just a matter of bolting the new one on really ... then you'll have to consider things like back up switch, 4x4 engage light switch and the likes ...

I had a toque converter go out in a Ford 250 a few years back and it did exactly as you are describing ... we had to replace the converter out in the middle of freakin' no where, and like you said, everything appeared intact, but it wasn't moving ... auto's can be finicky though, so before settling on that as the problem, I feel it would be best if you at least took it out, so you can check for obvious things, and if worse comes to worse, then you already have the tranny out to put a new one in ...

try ebay ... I have seen those on there quite a bit ...

where is the general location of the leak? ... if it is coming out of the seep hole in the water pump, then the pump seal is going ... if it is coming from where it actually meets the engine block, then likely you could get away with putting a new gasket on ... sometimes though the upper hose inlet will leak and drip down to the pump and make it appear as if the pump itself is leaking ... so if you can, clean it all out ... run the truck and see if you can pickup where it is coming from and go from there

you will probably end up rubbing depending on the back spacing ... you should go with an 8" wide rim at about 4-3.75 inches of backspacing ...

if you are going to go with rancho's , get the adjustable kind ... you'll be happier with them ... I have TrailMaster SSV's on my rig ... and I dont really like them ... I am looking into getting a set of bilsteins ... but am first going to get the tripple shock setup

just doing a search ...

on my 35 x 12.5's I use an 8 inch rim ... for me it helps to keep the bead when airing down the tires and allows me to air down a little more than with a wider rim ... thats been my experience anyways ...

This time next year I'll be a flight instructor, so I am definately going to make the trip out for that ... prolly spend a week up there ... only takes like 20 hours to drive up there ...

maybe 10 percent tops I would say ... but the thing that will be the most great is you are increasing your efficiency, so if you actually lay OFF of the throttle a little bit, you can get the same performance as before you did all that, with the benefit of better economy ... but whose not gonna get into the throttle after all that huh? hehe