MatterHorn

for the bumper, just loosen up the mounting bolts and adjust ... i am sure there is enough wiggle room for that ... as for the light ... well ... you could glue it and risk the chance of it coming apart again, or you could just get a new/used one off of ebay or the likes ...

all you really need is a good paint for plastics ... there are MANY MANY companies that make them ... if it is dash/interior repair you are looking for, I recommend www.rightlook.com

mine turns them pretty well ... offroad it isn't bad ... but the gains are minimal considering ... and there is huge stress on TRE's and centerlinks ... not to mention that 33's are cheaper ...

hehe... its ok ... if I were to have a poor experience with them, I would likely not use them too...

a relay should always be used in lieu of just piggy-backing other systems ... this insures a low draw current from the system you are drawing from, and still allows it to be switched with other system(s) at the same time, or be switched independantly ... using only a fuse is not enough in most cases I would recommend using a relay

"the only smart consumer is an informed consumer" take that as you will ...

it is almost level, but not quite ... I dont wanna go crazy on the front until I get my UCA's installed ... the coils in the rear are also only 1.5" lift coils ... and I have a 3" body lift ... that is enough to clear 35's ... but only barely, and with no fender flares or mud flaps on ... Like Pickles said ... do yourself a favor and stick with 33's ... as soon as I am able, I am going to do just that ... if you off road at all ... it will tear your steering up ... oh yeah ... and I do have the coil spacers in the rear as well ... so about 5.5 inches of lift plus the 3" body lift ...

i have had nothing but luck with Schwab ... I think that you guys are just the victims of poor dealers ... hard to find good service these days ...

can anyone recommend a good brand of TBI cleaner that they have used with their rig? 88? thanks guys ... I need to do this as it seems that the throttle is trying to sick open a little bit on me and I cant get the idle down where I would like it ...

www.lesschwab.com I belive has that feature ...

you got your work cut out for you man ... keep us updated on your progress ...

yes ... they also make coilover shocks too ... www.swayaway.com

you can ... just make sure that you use a silicon that is impervious to solvents, oils, and gasoline ... I believe that the orange/red stuff will do the trick as it is also a high temp type ... just be sure that you let the bead of silicon you use gets a little tacky first, and you will be sure to have a good seal ...

you could get an aftermarket bolt on that has an externally located voltage regulator, which would allow you to mount it higher in the engine compartment ... but that still does nothing to protect windings and bearings in the alternator from damage ...; as I am sure lots more will tell you, the only way to protect it, is to keep it away from the mud ...

I had the surco and ended up selling it to Jim ... I liked it and it served its purpose well ... however, if you want something that can handle a lot of weight, go with the yakima ... it is A LOT better constructed, so far as the floor is concerned, and you will not get the rattles that I experienced with the Surco rack ...

your ratteling problem sounds indicative a broken exhaust manifold bolts ... to find out for sure ... open up the hood of your vehicle when it is cold, start it up, and run your hand above below and around the manifolds from the side(s) the noise appears to be coming from ... you should feel exhaust coming out if it is indeed leaking ...

not really ... you'd have to get the items seperately ... like new UCA's and torsion bars ...

I still think that with the right pry bar you can get in between the flange and the drive itself to force the shaft further in ... just gotta put some a$$ into it ...

are you saying that you hit the cv's with a hammer? why?

sounds like you just have some slack on the cv joints that you cant eliminate by just pulling the inner shaft in ... what I would do is remove the 8 bolts that hold the inner part of the cv shaft to the output flange on the differential ... then simply grap it by that end, and push the whole assembly back in or possibly use a pry bar to push it all back into the spindle ... that should do it for you ... it may help to have a friend push it in, while you put the snap ring back on ...

its probably something mechanical rather than electrical ... like a bushing or or something out of adjustment ... check your drivers side before any others as that is obviously the most used door ... BTW - good to see you back on here!

yeah ... its crazy what they want seat for ...

how did you go about asking your girlfriend to sit in the back for weight without offending her? j/k man

I agree ... nobody else is going to do it for you ...

if we just had stickys for everything ... what use would we need in actually communicating with each other? except for posting pictures of eachothers pets, and really horrible Flash games from the net ...