MatterHorn

yes they are the same ... same cams, same valves ... its all the same ...

just a thought ... to at least eliminate any easy problems ... if there are any obstructions to the linkage that could be causing your problem ... you may just wanna have a quick look underthere to be sure there isn't something sticking in there like a stick or rock ... just a thought ...

Probably close to, but not quite, max for on-road, and lower (or MUCH lower) off road, depending on if you're in mud, sand, etc. shouldn'd you use the published pressure that is written in the door jamb?

what kind of head unit are you installing?!?

yeah I have never heard of one cracking on our rigs ... but studs are a very common thing to break ... it only takes one ...

its the lifters ... it would only be harmfull if it were to continue to do it all the time ... it's perfectly normal and there is no real good way to fix it ... some have used different brands of motor oil with some success ...

try searching for chevy forums instead of 4.3's ...

KCDX-659 for me ... I've only ever owned kenwood ... and I like their stuff ...

if your crank angle sensor is messed up, you MUST replace that ... that is definately what is contributing to most if not all your problems ... its one of the most vital components of your ignition timing and fuel delivery ...

if your cap has a hole in it, it is because it is arcing off of another post inside the cap ... that would DEFINATELY cause a misfire ...

the knock sensor just advances/retards the timing as neccesary to eliminate pinging ... you can do the same thing by adjusting the timing ... was the timing ever verified to be sure that it is correct?

look in the phone book for import engines ... you can get many reman. refurbished engines with a complete install kit, and pretty good warantees for under a thousand dollars ... sometimes you can get lucky and find one on ebay, but shipping is a pain and really expensive ...

Grumpy - whats with your Avatar man? hehe ... poor dog looks dead!

so did I ... with a little lock-tite for insurance ...

94 ft/lbs

it could also be your cap too ... I have burned holes in caps before and got the same shock when I got my hand near the distributor cap ...

yep ... the outer most edge of it (basically the part closest to the tire) ... I also ground a bit of the balljoint too ...

I bought mine from a specialty shop ... about 80 bucks ...

any pictures?

all right ... well that is kinda what I figured ... anybody else have any suggestions or comments on this?

ok ... I have looked in both my haynes and chilton's manuals and neither one of them says anything about just removing the hub/rotor itself with the inner and outer wheel bearings and all ... so my question is - can I just take the hub/rotor off with the bearings intact, and not have to worry about the spindle or cv shafts? from what I gather I can, but I am not sure as the manuals are really vague on it. one suggests removing the spindle, drive shaft and everything that goes along with it ... the other doesn't really specify much of anything ... my guess is, that once get the manual hubs off, get the snap ring off and then take the drive clutch, lock washer and wheel bearing lock nuts out, that I should be able to pull the whole wheel hub/rotor combo out which will allow me to replace the inner and outter bearings and grease seals at the same time I install my new rotors ... am I correct in this? I shouldnt have to pull the spindle or drive axel, and shouldn't the drive axel be supported by the needle bearing in the spindle to help in reassembly? thanks guys!

yeah you should run at a maximum 3.25 of backspacing ... and that would actually work for a 8 inch wide rim too ... I run a 15x8 rim ... and I only have 3.75 inches of backspacing ... it does occasionally rub the UCA, but I have ground quite a bit of material off and smoothed it out to be less abrasive ... the other alternative is to run some wheel adapters, which I have, but am waiting to get some opened ended lug nuts that fit the wheel hub ...

you should be able to get a coat hanger in between the window and weather stripping ... then just take your time and you should be able to pull the linkage up to get the door to pop open ...

Jim Wolf doesn't offer a chip add-on for our ECU's - they have to take yours apart and add in some chips of their own. When/if you do this, you need to specify the type of mods you have to your rig. Like if you have headers, exhaust and intake and possibly new cams. Then they will 'program' it to get the very best out of those mods. That is why it is best to do as many of those mods as you would like or intend to do before you get the ECU mod'd so you CAN get the best out of it, and wont waste 500 bucks ...

yeah maybe an inch ... maybe a little more ... with a full tank of gas and all my crap in the back it levels out ... the main reason I want to go back to 33's is because I want to reduce the stress' on my steering ... as it is right now, seeing as I have been doing no off roading since I got in Phoenix, I dont have a problem ... but I eventually want to get back on the trails ... its not so bad that I want to imediately dump these tires ... you just have to be conscious of it while on the trail, and adjust your driving accordingly ... the second reason is because of cost and availability ... i'm a broke student now, so I have to try and conserve where I can ...