MatterHorn

LMFAO!!!

I just looked at that again ... lol ... my mistake ...

actually I tend to think that superlift is better than rancho ...

you could do a suspension lift, or you could do a body lift ... the body lift is the cheapest being only in the 70-90 dollar range ... suspension lift depends all on the quality of a product you want there is Calmini, A/C's lift, Rancho and Superlift(a-arms only) do a search either here of google it to find more answers...

off topic ... but I remember when I put my 4" trail master lift on ... it was 4 in the morning monday by the time we finished it... and I had to drive to work ... didn't even have a chance to test drive it ...

the kit will work with any rig of the same year regardless of transmission type ... you will be fine ...

check igntion fuses and fusible links ...

mine was making that noise too ... so I replaced the throwout bearing ... noise was still there ... turns out it was the pressure plate ...

yeah ... they suck in general ... just cut a little at a time, and be patient ... those things serious suck a$$, but look good if you take the time with em

more acurately, the thermostats for most engines are attached to the inside of the housing that the UPPER raidator hose connects too ... that should answer your question, though I really do suggest that you get yourself a vehicle specific manual...

well ... in my case I decided to go with 2" schedule 40 round tubing for my sliders ... the biggest reason for this was because the amount of surface area a round pipe actually strikes with a rock versus using square tubing is signifigantly less, thus making it easier to "slide" off of obstacles ... so from there I decided that since my sliders were round tubing, I wanted my front and rear bumpers to match ... I haven't done the rear yet... but I think that it was a wise choice to go with all round tubing in my case ... the only real downside to using it is that it is more expensive than sqaure tubing ... but seeing as you are a welder, you probably have a good resource to get steel at near stock value or better like I did ...

nope ...

is your clutch fan actually engaging to pull air through?

most people forget the coolant drain in the side of the engine block (drivers side/forward part) that drains all that fluid out too ...

you'd likely have to replace the whole lsd ... I dont think that anybody has rebuilt one before ... but it could be possible I suppose ... just a thought here - when was the last time that you changed the fluid in the thing? could help and wouldn't hurt if it has been a while ...

yeah I fabbed those up ... it's not as hard to do as you think, and even if you dont have access to a tubing bender, you can buy prefabbed bends in all different radius' and thickness' ... you only have to be a marginal welder in order to do these things your self ...

if it is doing that, then it is probably just a good idea to replace those seals that are leaking ... replacing seals is just a part of regular maitenence on a vehicle and isn't something that should be overlooked or "band-aid" fixed ...

you'll break axels, ujoints or drive shafts before you'd ever twist the frame ... our frames are pretty rigid for what they are ...

well ... sliders use square tubing or round tubing to mount to the frame in more than 2 places, which is much stronger than having just flat bars from the nerf's to the frame ... PIC

cool man ... I have been meaning to do that for a while ... never quite get to it ...

I live in Phoenix and used to live in Seattle, and I use just regular 10W30 and have no problems ... today it was 108 degree's ... toasty! ... I would stick with that as it is pretty much a multipurpose oil ...

bump

ok ... those gold brackets get bolted to the outside of the origional holes which are accessible through the wheel well using the original bolts... the gold brackets should also be pointing STAIGHT UP to the sky ... after you have those bolted in, then push the bumper mounting brackets through the original holes in the front of your rig ... it should become very obvious from that point ... when you mount the gold tabs, be sure that they aren't all lock tighted in there or anything ... you will still need to adjust them to make it look right ..

Ebay .... there are a lot of online parts stores that carry them too ... plus you can order them at any parts store that deals in Raebestos (sp?) ... the part numbers are BR9909L and R respectively

I already found a source for the wheel bearing socket HERE You guys have suggestions on a brake pad to go with these rotors? Or even a paticular type and/or brand?