MatterHorn

I had that problem for a while, and all I had to do was re-adjust the thermo-element so that throttle cam was in the correct position while warm, and while cold. it isn't really hard to do, and you will most likely need to readjust your idle as well ... just make sure that your truck has been warmed up to normal opperating temp before you make the adjustment, and if full adjustment is not possible you will need to replace the thermo element. there are alignment marks on the fast idle throttle cam which need to be lined up while warm - there should be a mark labeled "A" which needs to be lined up to about the middle of the roller that is on the throttle lever. there is a small adjustment screw located at the top, which may have a small black cap on it. simply remove the cap, and adjust until they line up - be sure the truck is warm... then adjust your idle then you should check to see that the fast idle selenoid is properly adjusted. you can do this once the above is done, by running your engine, then turn on the blower fan from inside, and you should see that the RPM goes up about 150 - 300 RPM or so ... if it does not or moves too much, you can adjust the fast idle by turning the dash pot on the passanger side of the throttle body

i've never seen one on our rigs ... at least the early model pathys ... check fuses, ignition relay, fuel and igniton fusible links and check to see that the wiring loom that goes beneath where the hood rests is not damaged or severed due to your accident ...

A/C carries some at www.4x4parts.com - they are meant for a Hardbody application however, and have the bulge for the fenders ... the hood(s) look alright, but they aren't a perfect fit, but really could cut down on the weight if that is what you are after ... so whats your project just out of curiousity?

I beleive that Summit Racing can get both Thorleys and Pace Setters ... but I am not familiar with the paticulars with your application and what would, and wouldn't work ... best bet would be to try and get a hold of Mike over at A/C and let him know what you have, and what you want to do ...

a 1990 2 door Pathy? ... ummm ... did I miss something or is this in some other country or something? I thought they were only from 87 to 89

if it does it while it is running, then there is a very good chance that it is the alternator ... a good way to check is to see what the voltage is at the battery, and then check it with various accessories turned on, like the headlights, a/c or even the blower... it should be anywhere from 12.5v to 14.5 volts ... a little over or under wont hurt anything, but presuming it is the alternator, you would likely see something more like 11 or or less depending on how much load there is, and how much charge the battery actually has... in this case, it is an easy fix to swap the alternator... shouldn't be more than 90 bucks tops to get a new alternator with a lifetime warranty from say shucks or Napa, depending on where you like to shop ...

it is true that Nissan has replaced those studs - what isn't true is that they are from a vg30et - but they will work ... and they cost the same ... so it'll work out anyways ... all you have to do is ask for the "revised" studs, and they should know what you are talking about ... if not, get a mechanic, and he will definately know what you are talking about ...

ecu problem or a problem with the injectors themselves ... or a problem in the wiring harness somewhere ... like a short ...

looks like he got hung up on something and tried to back off of it ... bummer deal ... now its just a real good excuse to get a new ARB ...

My rig doesn't have A/C so I just cut out a slot in the blank insert where the A/C pipes run through the firewall, then underneath the carpet, to the back seats and ran the wire in from the side walls of the rear ... its out of site, and works well ...

I'm not a purple kinda guy myself ... but the custom powdercoat is sweet man ...

BTW - a crank angle sensor problem will definately cause a rich running condition ... it is not something that is servicable either. It is part of the distributor and would have to be changed out as an entire unit ... have you verifed and checked the timing after your general tune-up? if not, I would start with that, reset the ecu, and see how it runs ... if it comes up code 11 again, you will need to replace the distributor ...

problably just a gas line ... you probably would hardly be able to tell if it waqs gas from the exhaust just from the heat and movement of air, the gas would evaporate ...

do a diagnostic on the ECU to find trouble codes, if there are any ... you may also try resetting your ecu, by disconnecting the harness' for about 5 minutes ...

not all the chevy rims are that way ... i've had them on my truck before ... it seems to be more brand specific to the wheel ...

your problem seems to be more like a starter/ignition problem ... if you do a search, there is a lot of information on correcting this by adding a simple relay into the mix...

my transmissions bearings have never been replaced and they have been in there for over 260,000 miles ... I also really haven't abused my rig that much either ... just a thought - when/if you get your tranny gear oil replaced, you may have to lift the shifter off the top to fill it properly with the right amount ... the other idea is to jack the drivers side up so you can fill it more ...

better yet ... buy a Chevy and drop a VG30 in there ...

you dont neccessarily have to replae the valve springs so long as they fall within the specs of free hieght and compressed height ... but the lifters you will definately want to replace if your engine is over 10k thousand miles ... keep in mind that the race cams signifigantly increase the idle, past the point where you could get your rig to pass emmissions if that is required in your area ...

going with the trailmaster huh? if you need help with the install, I can definately help you there ... I did mine myself ...

a buddy of mine had a late model ford that would do that all the time ... turns out it was the drivers side door sensor that kept giving false signals ...

check for any O2 sensor codes as well ...

prolly under 200 dollars ... not really sure on the specifics ... i've always done it myself ... and it all depends on the shock you are getting, where you are getting it from, and what they charge for labor ...

I agree ... thats kind of an area that you want to do right the first time so you dont have to go back and do crap over again ... I'd say with the right amount of patience that anybody could do the conversion .... just take your time

my bet is that the UCA or LCA bushings are sqeaking now, because everything is so much tighter than it used to be ...