MatterHorn

so which of your cars is that really for then?

never heard of that before ... but I suppose that is a possiblity ...

what ever it is ... it may be a good idea to replace the hoses and the pump ... at least while you have got it all apart ... and the cost is margninal considering the the work to get everything apart ...

the clearance between the oil pan and diff is too tight to just slide the motor out off of the tranny output shaft... so you have to do one of three things ... remove the oil pan and pickup. remove and slide back the transmission. Or remove the diff ... since I have the trail master lift and a body lift with 35's, removing the front diff was the easiest for me as far as room to work... I didn't wanna futz with the oil pan while it was still in the rig, and I didn't have a good enough jack nor the strength to mess with the tranny ... BTW ... I did put the front diff back in ... I have a question for you though, why did you swap the oil pumps? They are the exact same thing on a non-turbo Z? ... just curious ...

glazed, worn and surface cracked rotors will cause that ... mine are ... and they do that exact same thing ... i'm ignoring it for the time being untill I can afford to replace it along with the rears which seem to be really worn out ...

there's a kit out there somewhere to solve that problem with the bracing ... I believe that A/C was offering that some time ago ... worth a look anyways ...

you dont have to swap the crank shaft ... just the pulley/balancer on the front of the engine ... and in case there is any confusion, I put a NON Turbo Z motor in mine .. however, the turbo WOULD be easy, except that there is no room between the firewall and engine to mount the turbo on STOCK manifolds... notice I say stock... if you wanna learn more about the swap, do a search for Datsun 510 swaps ... there are a couple of really good threads and articles on both naturally aspirated and turbo VG swaps ... ... and you would have to carry over the ECU and wiring harness too... there's one guy that I remember talking with about this swap, and he said if he had it to do over again, he would have gone with a small chevy instead ...

you cannot use a throttle body injection computer and harness for a Multi-Port injection system ... you will have to swap the, intake manifold and the TBI all together for the vg30e block to work ... the two computers are miles apart in difference with the various different sensors that it uses... so dont even try it ... hope that helps ... and it isn't the computer that is the problem ... it was the injectors themselves that caused fires ... kinda funny actually .. I pulled up into a Nissan dealer in Seattle and they had a 300 ZX just sitting there ... a tech jumped in and tried to fire it up ... and that's all he got was a fire ... lol ...

he's right ... you'll have to compare the crank shafts between the two ... there's a post about this already somewhere ... and I listed a part number for the Long crankshaft balancer/pulley ... it's what I had to use for the 300ZX motor I swapped in to my truck ...

nope ... 87 to 95 only at this time ... I haven't designed them for a unibody Pathfinder yet ...

do you have some pics of this? ... I'd like to see how you did it ... thanks

I only sold about 6 sets ... most people like the cost ... but hate the shipping associated with it ... they're heavy ... plain and simple ...

all that I have ever put in it was quaker ... and I changed to oil pan out at about 152k and everything was pretty much clean ... then I tore it all apart after I sheared the Keyway keeper on the crank shaft ... you could see the grime and wear in all the bearing jurnals and bearings them selves ... and I was never one to get a few more miles on an oil change ... I was good about that ... it wasn't like it was a huge problem, but that build up caused about a 1/16 inch of constriction all the way around through the oil system ... the stuff looked like it was varnished right on the the sides ... NOT GOOD ...

you like that? ... it took me quite some time to figure a final design for it ... all I have yet to do is as a skid plate and a removeable winch mount ...

using sythentic oil likely will just let you know if you have a leak or not ... it doesn't cause leaks ... personally ... I use SAE 30 and every other oil change I use marvel mystery oil for 1 out of the 4 total quarts just to keep things loose... I've had problems with using Quaker State synthetics glazing on engine internals ... although this isn't a SERIOUS problem, it can have adverse affects on bearings and cylinder surfaces ...

I have done this exact thing and in fact a VG30E meant for a 90 300ZX resides in my orginally equipped VG30i engine bay... they ONLY thing ... and I mean only thing ... to worry about is weather the crank shaft is a SHORT or a LONG ... either way is no real big deal ... all you have to do is look at the shaft, compare it to the other, and you will know ... your stock engine should have a short shaft ... if you find a motor with a long shaft, you'll have to get the correct balancer for it (Nissan Part number -12303-12G01 - 189.00 dollars ) and everything will line up perfectly ... do not use the original harmonic balancer/pulley that came with it unless it is from a Pathfinder or pickup ... the car ones are different ... Everything else will easily convert over.... (manifold(s), power steering, a/c, etc) if you get the motor from a 300ZX like i did, you'll also have to change the oil pan and pickup over .... trust me on this ... even with my TM 4" lift there was only about 1mm of space ... and do NOT ... I repeat - do not use silicon for a gaskget ... only use the rubberized Nissan piece ... you'll end up doing it all over again if you use anything else ... plan on getting a new clutch set w/ throw out bearing too ... unless you have an automatic, this will save you tons of frustration in the future ... I know the exact thing you are going through right now ... I stripped the key and key keeper completely and was the reason I chose to do the engine swap ... you can get by for a while by welding it like I did, but it will be out of balance, and will likely eventually fail ... replaceing the crank is WAY to involved for a novice mechanic like myself, and time consuming for a good mechanic ... do the swap and you will be a lot happier ...

everything on those two models will be the same ... the only variance may be in the actual trim package, I.E. - the interior ... but things like door panels can be interchanged between each other, just make sure if you decide to replace your door(s) that you get yourself a interior panel removal tool ... they are pretty cheep and look pretty much like a ball joint seperator ... if you do it any other way, the snap pins will break or you will tear them straight through the panel ... espescially so with our older model pathfinders ...

hey fellas ... some of you may know me, others have yet to get to know me... My name is Matt Albertson, and yes ... I am a Pathfinder-a-holic ... gosh I feel better now! ... hehe ... anyways ... many of you might have heard the name from the Accessories section back on nissanpathfinders.com - I'm the guy that was offering the rock sliders ... while I am currently attending college in Arizona, I am still interested in hearing from interested Parties regarding the sliders, and if I get enough requests, I will have them made up for you from our home base in Washington. It may take a little time for enough requests to come in, but I have family with a fab shop back home that would be more than happy to fill your orders provided they get enough of them ... take care for now ... Matt