MatterHorn

2 to 3 thousand to fix? ... what the?!?

pathfinders, hardbody's, maximas, 300zx and late model 240's all had the same model engine except for minor differences ... the position of the cap on the 300ZX is a little different than ours, but still works ... and the pathy cap will bolt on ...

the crank angle sensor basically tells the computer when the #1 is at TDC ... so it knows how to time the fuel and the spark to the cylinders ... the crank angle sensor in our rigs is built into the distributor and is NOT a servicable part ... replace your distributor ... I dont know what code 44 is ...

thats why I prefer Napa ... that about what I normally pay ...

I have tried a LOT of other plugs ... and the plus 4's work fine for me ... doesn't mean that I am saying everybody should run out and get their selves a set ... efficiency for a spark plug all depends on how the vehicle is used and tuned ... I personally use mine at high rpms quite a bit, and have a MSD ignition and coil ... so power to the plug isn't a problem and the electrodes actually probe further into the combustion chamber than other plugs that I have tried (ie - its longer) ... so for me this setup works ...

its a good guess though ... a voltage regulator that is burnt out or going on an altenator will do that ... i think that 88' can back me up on this one as I am sure that he's been though as many if not more altenators than I have ...

actually all I did was change the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and cerified that the timing was set ... all of this can be easily achieved by a novice mechanic ...

glazed rotors will lock up like that ... isn't so sweet when you are just barely moving and you use the brakes and your head practically goes through the windshield? LOL ... I laughed so hard when this was brought up cause I just remember getting so pissed when that happened ...

I always liked the early broncos ... I just never wanted to spend the time restoring one of my own ... though .. I wish I had ... here's another site, www.JamesDuff.com

I use the Platinum plus 4's and I love them ... changing them out isn't such a big deal ... but you should get a u-joint style extension and a socket to get the last rear plug on the drivers side out... it can be a little tight back there ... the plugs themselves are pretty good ... and after a 173 thousand miles, all I had to do was pull em, clean 'em and put 'em back in ... they seem to go forever ...

2.02 is about the cheapest that I have seen it in Phoenix so far ...

adjust the idle screw

thats probably cumalative after everything was paid ... I paid 6250 for my 87 back in 99 ... single owner no dings, perfect paint, carpet was spotless and engine ran great... darn thing had these aluminum running boards with the lights in there ... that was cool for a while ... i'll have to dig up a picture ...

yes you will have to remove the seat ... then you'll see the lights ...

man ... I would love to get my hands on that rig ... truly one of a kind ...

87Pathy - I would love to see some pics of your SAS... and is the a bronco axel and control arm setup?

I haven't seen a scorpion yet ... so I havent freaked out and left town yet ...... makes me shudder when I THINK about it ...

puts some muscle into man!

yeah I am sure ... laser is a LOT cleaner ... we used to use gas on an automated machine to cut steel crossing plates to put over utility ditches ... I'm sure you have seen these before ... we anything from 3/4 to 1.5 inch steel plates ... they all turn out just like that ... and for gas ... it is pretty darn good ... CNC aluminum would be nicer ... but of course they would be a little more expensive ...

thats good to know none the less ... I wouldn't mind having some cheapo's around too ...

sad part is ... they actually used a torch on those ... you can tell because of the way the burn bends near the outer edge of the cut ... if they were plasma'd or laser ... it would be WAY smooth ... I bought a set of those ... and never installed them .... they just looked too crappy ... even though I am sure they will work fine ...

I use left hand drill bits ... you only need to get a small part of the way through and the left turning of the bit starts to turn the stud counter-clockwise and out it comes ... I think I got mine from Snap-On

they need to be repacked when you reinstall the hubs/rotors on a Nissan (w)d21 ... you have to remove the outer bearing to even get the hubs/rotors off and you have to remove the whole hub/rotor assembly to get to the bearings which is a total pain in the arse... so they HAVE TO be repacked when you reinstall them ... that is why I ALWAYS recommend just getting the whole thing done - seals, brakes, rotors, hardware, bearings, and packing and a rebuilding/greasing of the hubs ... and asumming that the wheel bearings were properly set in the first place, having slack in the hub is a good indication that they need to be repacked, and set properly again ... either way it is really unavoidable ... most older cars have a hub/rotor assembly that is relatively easy to remove SEPERATE from the bearing and spindle assembly ... hence the ease of it ... basically Nissan just decided to put a whole lot more parts in a more compact space to make it that much more of a challenge ... and that is why it is such a feat whenever we actually fix something on our Nissan's all by oursleves!

not normally ... I haven't done mine in over 100k miles ... a quick way to know for sure if you need them done is to grab a wheel from the top, shake it back on forth in the direction of the opposite wheel ... if you hear or feel any play, you should have them done ...

seems excessive... but it isn't uncommon ... Nissan has probably got one of the more time consuming Wheel bearing configurations of most cars ... thats why it seems expensive