MatterHorn

I gotta say man ... I find your post's the most difficult to read ...

yeah that would be sweet ... would that be a fogger type system? ... or would you try and patch one into the manifold? dont they have a system available for the vg30e's? ... I thought I saw that on Summit or something ... that would definately be cool ... mine does ok accelerating untill about half way through 3rd gear ... then it sucks ... I hardly ever use fifth at all unless I am cruising a long distance ... of course that is with my 35's too ...

basically yeah ... but more or less it is changing the compressability of the fuel, so as it is squeezed, it is less likely to pre-ignite causing a ping ... since we dont have high compression, large bore motors, it's a complete waste to think that 91 or better octane fuel is needed ... if you are getting a ping, its because you need to adjust the timing and or have the injectors cleaned or replaced because of an excessively lean mixture ... at least with our motors ...

use the inners from your same year, then use the outers from an earlier model Pathfinder ... both the inner, outter and adjusting sleeve need to be cut down - not much but it's just part of the lift no matter what year you have.

I thought I heard somewhere that it was an eaton ... but that is uncomfirmed ...

yeah ... but how much would a 350 swap cost to do it right? ... a lot more than that ... for sure - I do agree though that NOS would be the better way to get power fast for cheap ...

I've had mine up past a 105 (thats as high as my speedo goes) ... so who knows?? of course it wouldn't do it now with the 35's on it ... hehe

I think that more people would be happy if they just regeared their rigs instead of hunting for a ton of horsepower ... you basically acheive the same thing, for a fraction of the cost, and still get reliablitly ... .

yeah ... electric fan not only saves horsepower, but lengthens the life of the water pump bearings too ... there is also the option of Camshafts ... you can go the full bore race cams, but your idle will be higher and emmisions will suffer ... they have a milder cam set available for a 10-15 percent increase in horsepower ... again ... those are expensive as hell and you will also need a new lifter and rocker arm for every valve ... that gets REALLY expensive quick ... also you can upgrade the ignition to a multi discharge type ... it wont increase power a whole lot, but it will keep things running at peak performance ... it basically allows the spark to be ignited several times within the 0-3000 RPM range instead of just once, and you can run a higher gap on your plugs for more complete burn ...

i've had my trail master shocks on for about 3 years now, and I dont have any complaints about them. The ranchos, from what I have heard are comparable, however rancho has the abilitiy to adjust their shocks with the 9000 series, which I think is better so that you can fine tune your suspension for off and on road capabilities.

hehehe

let me put this disclaimer in then ... if any of you would read the post, it isn't MY sketch ... secondly, you are right, it is a quick fix to an annoying problem ... but I belive that most people are intelligent enough to not start their rig in just any gear ... am I right?

this is a common problem with older pathfinders where the electrical wiring gets corroded internally, or is worn ... Click HERE for the starter fix ...

maybe next time bro ... I had a night flight to Tucson ... thats why I couldn't make it ...

I found them to be more noisy and generally ineffective against wind and rain ... maybe I was expecting more ... lol

the rolling motion doesn't cause the shocks to move as much as say hitting a speed bump or pothole ... the wear is most likely negligible

Here's a post from the 4x4parts forum - this fix was developed for old/bad wiring to the starter solenoid ... be sure to check out the attachment at the top of the first post ... I believe that this should help you clear up the problems you're experiencing ... Starter Fix

another thought would be the actual ignition wiring ... coroded or otherwise not having a good connection would end with the same results ... but more than likely the wiring to the starter selenoid ...

I remember seeing some video of a little wiener dog that had narcalepsi (sp?) ... thing just run around and BAMN!!! ... he'd fall dead asleep ... lol

could be a leaking injector ... leaking just enough while there is still pressure in the line and the motor is off, causing an excesivly rich mixture until you go a ways to burn it off and then it is fine ...

there wouldn't be engine type oil in the transfer case .. .if their is ... you have problems beyond the scope of this BBS! ... hehe ... actually you should just have gear lube in there ... I dont remember the weight right off ... but that should get you pointed in the right direction ...

bigger tires = added stresses ... so sure it will likely be felt more by a guy with a lifted rig ...

for the most part it is pretty much a bolt off/bolt on kinda thing ... but you should be wary of the condition of the brakes and bearings ... other than that it isn't very hard at all ... it would be wise to get all new bushings while your at it ...

a larger or additional tranny cooler is always a good idea ... and it might be a good idea to put an auxilary fan on the cooler so at slower speeds you can cool the fluid faster ...

technically your switch should be the "circuit" that completes the ground for the relay so that it switches on... that way it isn't carrying any signifigant amount of current and is all handled by the relay