MatterHorn

exhaust leak, hear shield or pipe shielding?

it also prevents premature wear and tear from rusting out, as headers often do after a while ...

great job man :cool2:

I would replace the cap, rotor, wires and plugs before doing anything else ... if you have a timing light or can borrow one, verify your timing after doing the above ... this would be a good start ...

I still havenen't dont mine .. and its been like 3 years ...

we know that it'll bolt in ... the big question is will the harness for the tranny computer plug straight in ... my guess would be no, but I dont have an automatic...

yeah that is pretty sweet dude ... should get the side decals done like that too ...

Here you go

well ... if it is giving you an actual code, there is really only two things that could be wrong with it - either the knock sensor is really messing up on you, or the ECU or its wiring some where are messed up ... that's the only real thing I could think or, without actually being there to check it out ... but as always, verify timing, wiggle all the sprak plug wires, check fluids and maybe even pull the cap to see how it is wearing ... that would just eliminate all that ...

I answered your last post already ...

lol

remove all the trim pieces, and arm rest, unscrew a few screws and pull it off ... not hard ... you guys are so difficult some times ...

the knock sensor senses any time there is detonation (pinging) in a cylinder (pre-ignition of the air fuel due to high temps) and tells the ECU to add fuel to richen up the mixture, which when you add more fuel, the ionization effect of the fuel actually lowers cylinder temperature, and prevents preignition. 275 dollars doesn't sound right ... have you tried asking the dealer first? maybe they were pulling the wrong part number up there at 'schmucks' (wouldn't be the first time) the only problem is that the sensor is located beneath the intake in the valley of the 'V' for your engine ... which means you'll need not only the sensor, but new intake seals as well and you are looking at prolly a 2-3 hour project if everything goes right ... driving it that way really isn't an option ... you could cause pitting and actual cracking of any pistons or rings because of the detonation, and then you will have a real problem ...

YES YOU DO HAVE TO CUT THE TIE RODS DOWN! and you also have to cut the adjuster sleeve... the lift can be done with just jackstands and basic tools, but drilling here and there is going to be very difficult, and having a friend to help you with front diff placement and rear axel relocation is a good idea ... in other words, the more room you have to work under there the better ... the jack stands should be pretty tall ... I would rate the lift about an 8.5 ... dont get me wrong ... it is hard to do ... especially if you have limited knowledge of the Pathfinder IFS ... do yourself a favor and research EVERYTHING FIRST ... you can ask me questions until you are blue in the face ... I dont mind ...

I think a lot of it is not so much the weight of oil, but the brand of oil too ... you may wanna consider trying different brands ... otherwise ... the only way to get rid of that 2 or 3 second noise is to replace all the lifters and rocker arms ... personally I wouldnt even bother doing anything accept keeping fresh oil in it as that startup noise is normal on most vehicles and wont harm anything ...

its not that practical I dont think ... you can just as easily put a rag in there every time and it will catch and soak up the oil ...

mines at about a third on the highway and just under half in stop and go ... I tend to keep my electric fan a little more sensitive just in case ...

thats a really good deal ...

i'd say that the only thing that makes it worth it, is that you have a WARANTEED FILTER that you dont have to replace ... just clean ... it doesn't take long for most of us to gain that money back ...

i've heard of something like that before and turns out the guy had to replace the torque converter as it wasn't holding pressure right or something ... I dont know for sure, I am a manual tranny guy myself ... but perhaps that will ring a bell with somebody

yep ... auto lockers 'Sense' wheel slipage and lock the axels together - thought I would throw that in there as it wasn't exactly clear ...

a posi is a limited slip differential ... just a different brand name that I think was thought up by FORD ... maybe Chevy ... I dont know ... the point is ... you are SUPPOSE to have LSD additive in your diff ... from your test, if both wheels are moving the same, then you have a locker ... not an LSD ... OR ... something is seriously wierd with the clutches in the LSD which is causeing them to bind and thus you have a locker ...

I dont know then man ... all I remember is when I put mine on ... there was a crap load of stuff that didn't seem to go anywhere... so I just used what I thought I needed and tossed the rest ... so far so good ...

I believe that rounded one is the bumper bracket and the square one is to relocate the power steering line adapter ...

there is some truth to that ... if their is too much play, and they align it, all you have to do is drive it and it is out of alingment again ...