MatterHorn

the 300zx twin turbo motor will not fit without taking out a signifigant portion of your inner fender wells ... also I belive that the turbos sit a little too low to be able to fit under the hood, and between the frame rails of the pathy ... so a whole engine swap wouldn't be possible without first custom fabricating the manifolds ... a body lift might make this more possible, but I cant confirm that for sure ... the thing I hate about questions like this is that there are no manuals for doing this ... you just have to be willing to do whatever it takes, and see it through to the end ... is it possible? yes ... depending on your dedication and pocket book, is it probable? probably not ... would it be cool? without question! :cool2:

you will need to replace the reverse light sending switch which is located on the passanger side, upper and most forward point of the side tranny

that of course all depends on your definition of performance ... you'll hate those things on the street ... especially in wet conditions ... i'd look at some of the more aggressive BFG's, Goodyears, Kuhmo's (sp?) or Toyo's ... all produce great tires at competitive prices ... Pro-Comps and Mickey's are good ... but darn expensive ...

but that would be noticed without the brakes applied ...

chances are you are going to want more lift anyways ... the best way to do it is to get new torsion bars that are 30% stiffer than stock, which will allow you to run a lower spring preload (basically the initial crank to get the front where you want it) and then get a pair of aftermarket UCA's to make it more alignable and gain a little bit of flex as well ...

i'd get the rubber ones personally ... they are smoother and more quiet ... and I would say last just as long as poly's that DONT have grease fittings installed ..

it will be way too stiff with double shocks ... its too stiff with the single shock on the 4" lift ...

you can get away with front shocks that will accomodate a 4" lift for the front ... because you aren't increasing the travel, just making it more alignable with cranked torsions when you are using the calmini lift ... the rear's should be easy as you will just need a double eye'd shock, but you will need to do some measuring and figure out the length you want ... be aware that with that much lift in the rear, you may or may not need to mod the cross member that sits just aft of the rear transmission output due to clearance issues with the driveshaft ... especially if your shocks are too long ...

lean can also be caused by worn out rear coils as well ...

if the rotors are under or close to their minimum thickness limits, they will need to be replaced ... if there is plenty of thickness available, they will need to be "turned" or machined true again. Many places will do a free brake inspection, so you can determine whether or not they need replacement. I would recommend doing this asap so as to not reduce the life of your brake pads and hardware ...

yeah ... get some manual locking hubs ... i've heard of that problem before, and it was related to the hubs ...

I have the TM 4" lift with some coils and a slight torsion crank and a 3" body lift... its been good to me so far ... I would like to get the calmini UCA's and torsions to match and then I would be happy ...

ahh ... good point .. hadn't thought of that ...

a short somewhere that only happens why the wiring loom moves left as you turn right?

may I ask why you want that? and secondly ... are you expecting things to just fit up? cause I'll be the first to say that it will not ... you will have to bend, grind, cut, weld, re-cut, and measure a million different things ... if you are most comfortable with the 350 and tranny ... then it seems that you need to just get to it ... there are no right and wrong answers to your questions, just right and wrong ways to do things ... just be sure to take your time, expect the unexpected and have a little fun with it ... :cool2:

looks great man! ... need to get a couple of closeups on those rims ...

there is no swap that would be "easy" to do ... just less complicated ... besically ... you can put whatever you want in there ... but it is up to you to figure out what that is ... maybe you should do yourself a favor and look for a few books, or even magazine articles on engine swaping before you get neck deep into it ... the more informed you are, the easier it can be to make decisions ...

just curious as to the purpose of this post?

glad to have been able to help ... keep us posted of any other changes ... and possible upcoming upgrades! :cool2:

there should be a vacuum line between the aircleaner and the egr valve I believe that has a T in it that the cruise control should hook into ... also in regards to that shock, a bad wire or a boot would definately cause that and should be replaced ... and as for the air filter, if you took it out, and the idle fell, that would indicate a vacuum leak ... it wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace all of them ... a quick way to find a leak in the vacuum is to take a can of hair spray, and spray some quick shots around various locations of the throttle body - if the idle jumps a little, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the area that you sprayed ...

it has an oxygen sensor which meters the amount of air/fuel that the engine is burning ... and adjust the mixture accordingly to attain the best fuel/air ratio ... perhaps you need a new oxygen sensor .... but you may need to consider that adjusting the mixture may be out of the range of the ECU at those higher altitudes ...

there are two cams coming out of the front of the TBI - the top, smaller one is the fast idle cam. the bottom one is the thottle cam... to the right of the fast idle cam is a dashpot looking thing, that has two hoses attached to it - these run coolant through it, and in turn heat the thermo-element and cause it to expand, thus retarding the throttle as it warms up ... I seriously doubt that you have a burnt valve, as the engine would have to have been run extremely lean to burn a valve... and that puffing sound ... I almost guaruntee that it is a result of your idle not being set correctly ...

small price to pay IMO ...

that problem sounds like something associated with a carbureted engine... and to my knowledge the only carbureted 3.0 liter Nissan engines were available in the middle east ... is your truck throttle body injected? if so, it may just need a tuneup to get everything back into working order again ...

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