RF600

Take the wheels off. Sit the vehicle as low to the ground as you can. That will help when using a floor jack. Use some long boards to put against the body to distribute the load. Be prepared for the body to shift some. Like B said, You may need a come along or another vehicle to help shift the body.

Don't silicone the hole on the starter. That is a drain. If you plug it and take on water, well you should be able to figure out the rest. Honestly I didn't read the whole thing. It's really difficult to read without paragraphs. Just trying to help.

I assume the cylinder is not working? If so take the cylinder out and attempt to clean it. If it is frozen you will have to get a new one and have it keyed to your current key. Until then crawl through the passenger side.

Is there a reason you want 33's? 31's fit nicely and don't require upper control arms when going with a 3" suspension lift. I have a 2" suspension lift with a 2" body lift. Aftermarket wheels and 31" tires. No rubbing. No messing with the speedometer. I'm not trying to convince you to do something different. Just an example.

When I was looking for a 4x4 I narrowed it down to the 4 runner and a pathfinder. I went with the pathfinder because of the engine. I have not taken it out on a hard core trail. It has done everything I have asked of it. So unfortunately for those who haven't experienced the pathfinder, sorry you are missing out.

I still have to make front and rear bumpers to compensate for the body lift.

Did you fix it? What starter did you put in it? If it is an Autozone or equivalent, it might be bad. They say there parts have a lifetime warranty. You spend your lifetime replacing them.

Wiring isn't that bad. It is time consuming. Can be frustrating. I still get confused on wiring. It's not easy. Glad that is was an easy fix. Hopefully the new harness fixes it. Please reply back and let everyone know.

I forgot something. Ground clearance is relative. Yes you will gain some clearance. The differentials will still be low. The transfer case will still be low. Unless you are looking for a hard core trail rig, it is mostly for looks. IMHO

I did both on my rig. I did the suspension lift first. It was approx 2" lift. I had some wheel issues and put some aftermarket wheels on. The offset was different and the wheel stuck out more. With the 31" tires on the aftermarket wheels it would rub when turning. So I was forced, if you will, to put a body lift on. It was a 2" body lift. Honestly I like the look of 2" suspension and 2" body lift. It also gives a little space between the nerf bar and the body.

Good to hear you got it figured out.

If fluid is leaking the boots are torn. The first sign of bad cv joints is that clicking noise. Sounds like they were bad before the lift. The easiest way is to replace the whole shaft.

Wheels are too big for sure. Pretty cool looking ride.

The idler pulley bearing is sealed. It's best to replace it.

I don't recall the part number but just go to the dealer. It's not that much.

You have to make sure #1 is on TDC. Then stab the distributer. Then get a timing light and time it. You are probably 180 out.

I know this is old, is it fixed? If not try the idler pulley bearing.

If you have not painted anything yet, get some Adhesion Promoter. Go to your local paint shop and get some good rattle can paint. I painted the vinyl cover that covers the convertable top on my car with that stuff. If remaines flexable. Use the adhesion promoter first then paint.

Possible corrosion on the socket? My guess is there some resistance somewhere. Put more power to the wires and it pops the bulbs. The fuse should go first. Check the fuse. It sounds weird but maybe there is an issue with it?

Some of those cheaper bulbs, the silver bottom, are not very good. I prefer the gold colored bottom bulbs.

That's a lot.

Obviously she likes you and doesn't want to be sold. One or more injectors is out of spec. Mine has the same codes. You can ohm out the all the injectors using the plugs near where the upper radiator hose mounts. Do a search, there are a thread or 2 about which wires to use.

Kind of hard to pinpoint without seeing the rig. Start looking at things. Driveline, u joints, torsion rod bushings. Don't automatically assume transmission til you have ruled out the other things first.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39925-95-4x4-clutch-replacement/?view=getnewpost This might help

The transmission is really heavy, not joking really heavy! No need to drop it to the ground. Remove the shifter and slide the transmission back. If you have a 4x4, leave the transfer case attached and slide both back. To do it properly you need a transmission jack.