devonianwalk

Good point. How long did this occur after your last fill up?

Try spraying it down with MAF cleaner? It's good to pick up a can ($9 or so) and spray it down with each air filter change. The can will last you many, many years so don't hesitate with the initial cost like I did. I have used it on three cars so far and have noticed a difference on two of them. However, I have yet to smell rotten eggs from either of them.

Except I would think those would light up the SES light. Wouldn't a clogged catalytic converter throw said code along with the sulfur deposit odor?

It is just a mouse. This should take care of itself in a couple of weeks.

That sounds exactly like a clogged cat. Does it run okay when the truck has cooled down?

All great advice. Also, you might be able to shove a shop-vac in there with the blower motor removed.

This! The first thing I notice when I re-engage my hubs is how heavy the front feels when turning and coasting to a stop feels heavier.

That is a tough gremlin to catch. I'd much rather have mechanical issues than electrical just because they can be a royal pain to locate. You say you were playing with the auto climate control. Have you retraced the steps with the wiring harness' that you were testing? It is possible that you partially separated a ground wire (or any wire for that fact) if you were stabbing them with a probe. I'm willing to bet that it is a simple, well hidden, easy fix. Good luck!

Put over $120 worth of gas in her. This is why I bought a Miata for long day trips. Stupid tag along friend wanted to go with us so two seats would not suffice.

I like it too! Very clever way to attach the cargo barrier to the interior.

Why is that not your avatar picture mang?

Rammer Jammer, Yellowhammer, give 'em hell, Alabama!

I feel like a broken record repeating my timing jump issue so, I'll save the details. Mine jumped as much as two teeth on one cam and one tooth on the other. I had slack between the cams! I still have good compression on all cylinders. You are probably fine.

Maybe he had a bent control arm(s)? I could see that causing some funky issues with the rear axle travel on bumps and bounces. However, I couldn't see that affecting the ride height.

Round tooth belt it is. He has a '96 3.3L old man!

You are fine with the tire/strut clearance. That distance is static (tire and spring mount move together) when it comes to suspension travel.

Polished the headlight lenses. They look like glass again.

Only thing left to cover is your engine block ground. I'd be surprised if you haven't solved this issue.

You can swap the 3.3l in. There are multiple threads here on it. I had one timing belt jump and the replacement broke shortly after due to my ignorance of not replacing the tensioner pulley. My engine is still good! I have to count my blessings though.

Ha! When I read the thread topic I was thinking, "Yet another sensor I am unaware of?" ... This has to be the most relevant "irrelevant" thread on NPORA. Congrats Stioc!!

I know! My cat is digital. His name is 1001101011100010101. * edit .. I had no idea this was such a studied topic? In my Miata, my left foot is on the clutch. In my (auto) Pathy, my left foot is in another space continuum. I mean, I only need it to catch my fall when I'm exiting the wonderful bliss of another adventurous ride.

So, what good did your bookmark do for ya'? Maybe the cat got a hold of it. (that's all bookmarks are good for around our house. )

Mine sounds the same as those that posted before me. Mine is nothing more than a plastic strip sewn (or molded) to the carpet. 1999.5 LE Leather

Yes, welcome to NPORA. If Shoe's metric conversion is correct, you should have plenty of clearance between the shoulder blocks of the tire and the lower spring perch on the strut.