Nefarious

This ^!! I know my maf is a major restriction now. Cams, 3.3 swap, headers, exhaust, cone filter....etc. the stock maf is a major bottleneck and its not a very good design either. There's a reason even the vg33 in pathfinder, etc uses a maf similar to the n60.

Sick!

Pardon my guess on the stock maf BTW, I didn't have one to compare handy it was just an approximation.

The intake should be larger than the exhaust to make maximum volumetric efficiency. The Nissan maxima with the vg30e does use an n60 maf and they also make more horsepower. Less restriction will not = less power. There's a reason all Nissan after that point use large free flowing mafs. With the use of early vg30e cams this engine will need the extra breathing room. This is all based off my success with the ka24de engine in my 240sx. It uses a similar setup with a n60 maf and its a 2.4l. Not only did my power increase but so did my gas mileage. The trick is dialing it all in with the tune after all is said and done. thats where you get the major gains in efficiency. These engines run rich, and they dont push very much true timing. There is a serious amount of performance that could be unlocked with the right forumla!! I can only speak on it for so long but the proof will be in the numbers.

With my setup plugged into virtual dyno, I'm expecting 210-220 HP and 230-240 lb ft once the tune is complete with some dyno time to dial it all in. This is my exact setup, just have to do the electronics still. Vg33e engine Vg30e cams Obx headers (2" exits) Full header back exhaust 2.5" from the y pipe back(magnaflow hi flo cat and flowmaster 40). Cone air filter N60 maf (maxima) 260cc injectors (240sx/frontier) Custom ecu tune This is what I have so far, I am currently trying to find a way to convert to a vg33 upper plenum and throttle body as well to match, I have a couple 3.3 intake manifolds outside to play with to get it to work. I have everything figured out except for the idle solenoid, may need to do some machining to make it work.

You can buy individual maf elements but they won't work properly with an factory ecu. It's not so much the amplitude of the 0-5 v signal, its the analog steps between those voltages called the "maf curve". Each style of maf has different voltage steps based on temp than another maf. For example one maf may put out 1.1v at temp1, 2.3v at temp2 and 4v at temp3 Where's another maf may put out .8v at temp1, .2.5v at temp2 and 3.8v at temp3. There are far more than 3 steps since the analog signal is converted to digital for use in the ecu. There are usually 40-100 analog levels that convert over to digital so just plugging and playing with a new maf element (although u may get it to work) is really not ideal because even if it runs fine under some rpm/load conditions, it most likely will not run all values correctly. Even the difference between an n60 maf and n62 maf is enormous, value wise, and they share identical maf housing even with just different elements. I am currently working on setting up a stock ecu with a programmable tune to utilize a larger maf and more aggressive afr and timing curves. I'm finishing up my second year of industrial electronics/automation diploma so time is tight but I will definitely have a setup going in the new year. My plan is to run an n60 maf and some slightly larger injectors (possibly 260cc from a ka24de) to keep the duty cycle and pulse width low. This uses the same housing as a n62 (around 3" diameter air passage, much bigger than the 1.75" stock maf air passage) and doesn't get near 5v output until over 300 HP. They can be had quite cheaply as well.

After the body lift you need to use a 4wd hardbody transfer case shifter or bend and extend your stock one with a welder. I cut some sheet metal out of the transfer case shifted slot and its still not enough. I can hit N now but can only make it half way to 4 low. After the hardbody shifter I should be alright. I have had no problems with the duratracs! I have a decent amount of extra weight out back with the steel plate rear bumper and my hi lift and tools/gear ei that may help but I have amazing traction! I can stop in the hard pack ice super fast. The hills around here are quite steep and they are covered in snow and ice and even 2wd I can make it up no prob. The rear end does get a little fishy if I gas it but that's just me having fun with the new (to me) lsd. I don't even need 4hi and I live in a very mountainous area right by the ocean. Very humid and slick snow. They work great for me I am used to driving a slammed 240sx with lsd in winter though so my reference may be a little different lol.

Bombed around in the snow and ice. Ran up some of the local wilderness. The plows don't seem to be plowing, my favourite thing! All of the streets are covered in snow and ice and this is where the pathy owns! Lol.33x12.5x15 duratracs + factory LSD = too much fun to believe! Can make it up hills in 2wd that many trucks slip in 4wd. Just way too cool, my pathy impresses me yet again.

I got a magnaflow hi-flow 2.5" weld in cat for 75$ on ebay and that was shipped to canada. I've had no issues at all with it, would definitely recommend.

91 will be small taper for sure.

i think he meant the drive shaft that connects the trans/xcase to the rear diff? i dont think there are any issues with the factory drive shaft with a lifted pathy...I have 3" rear lift right now and the shaft length has barely changed, it's angle towards the x-member though might be of concern if your shocks are long enough, it may hit the x-member. I am going to modify a an upside U shape into the crossmember so the shaft can travel through it so to speak. The only thing you really have to worry about is the tension on the e-brake cables. When you lift the rear (with longer shocks) and/or have a body lift you will break your cables if you don't extend them down further. I am about to add another 1.5" of lift in the rear for a total of 4.5", so once I do that I'll let you know if I have to modify anything. I already made 3" drop brackets for the rear e-brake cables(they are super easy to make if you have a welder), but will probably extend them to around 5" since I have a 3" body lift but this will be based on your trucks setup. If you were talking about the front cv joints then there aren't any longer ones that I know of but I am quite interested to know about the porsche 930 outer cvs? Do they travel further without binding or are they stronger?

I've done the swap twice, once with a full r50 engine/accessories setup and once with Mr510 crank adapter. If you go the adapter route there is very little custom work done. No machine work at all. Mostly mild grinding with a 4 1/2" grinder and mixing and matching parts between the two motors. I did have to cut and change the offset of the alternator bracket but it was very simple and easy if u have a welder and would be inexpensive if u had to have it done. Both donor vg33 were from 96-99 pathfinder so it may not be necessary with an xterra / frontier vg33. I don't have experience with those configurations so I can't speak for them. Need any more info, just shoot. I know these engines like the back of my hand by now, lol.

so its excessive negative camber - wheels look like this / --- \ <-- tops of tire leaned in? or is it excessive positive camber - wheels look like this \ ----/ <---tops of tire leaned out? pics and more info would be helpful.

The engine, ecu, wiring harness will all have to be swapped over. U could just swap the intake and exhaust manifolds if u want but the later W series engines have a few improvements... I'm curious if u could take a picture of your dash? You say there's a button that says 'diff lock'. I've never heard of this as an option, I'm curious? Lsds wouldn't have a diff lock button...

Yeah the rotor doesn't point exactly to #1. Make sure the cam sprockets are lined up to the marks, make sure the crank sprocket matches its mark. Make sure the crank pulley lines up to 0 on the timing tab. Then count teeth (unless your belt came marked, in which case just make sure the belt marks line up with the sprocket marks. Once the belt is on and tensioned, spin the engine by hand once or twice to make sure nothing is binding and you should be fine. If I remember correctly the rotor pointed to just before or just after the #1 contact on the cap. Look in the FSM, its posted in the garage section , I think under how-tos. Gives a decent picture as to what the distributor should look like when installed

If its that bad, definitely fix it. If its just slightly worn, then its not a big deal. Would need pictures though. Most important part is the bushing cup. It's what holds the bushing centered anyways.

I have put my vg30e, vg33e, and vg30de engines in various vehicles through redline conditions for years on end and >100k km with regular maintenance and very, very few problems. I would really investigate for any (if any) causes to the engine failure... pretty much any Nissan engine from the late 80s to early 90s are bulletproof when maintained...and no mechanical failures are present.. Maybe there were contaminants in the oil, an exploded filter or something ? (Just brainstorming). Really unusual for that failure, especially in a 3.3.(from my experience)

Totally depends on the snorkel design. Smooth transitions, adequate diameter piping, filter facing forward, then you could gain power/mpg. Tiny constrictive piping with odd shapes, bottlenecks and a top or rear facing inlet and you will see decreases in power/mpg.

I couldn't put it down to exact numbers but I know the vg33 crank has been improved by eliminating the "thin spot" near the front of the crank behind the front crank snout. The snout is also larger. Not as much of an issue if you plan to run close to stock power levels but if you plan to upgrade (turbo, supercharger, etc.) then you will definitely want the stronger crank. The oil pump is known to flow more as well from what I have researched. EPRacing (a professional VG30E/VG33E/VG30DE engine builder states this and he knows his stuff!) I actually did the swap using the whole engine/accessories from an R50 in my truck keeping the entire VG33E engine assembly in my WD21 but in my girlfriends truck we used the mr.510 adapter. Maybe tonight I will get some time after homework to put up a thread in the members ride section for my girlfriends truck. It looks pretty much 100% stock and still uses all factory vg30e accessories with all vg33e engine components.

Grabbed some hardware to re attach and reinforce my factory antenna. Also got hardware to mount an SE rear hatch lip. I am almost 100% converted to SE now!

That is the hard way! You pulled your engine apart to put a weaker crank and oil pump in? I would stick with the vg33 crank and oil pump. Grinding down a bracket and a tab is a hell of a lot easier than rebuilding half of your bottom end with weaker parts...

I run 33x12.5 duratracs with 7 inch lift and get 18-20 mpg

yeah i use an altima fan. bolts right up, works great. switching over to a dodge caravan fan though soon cause I will need more cooling with the turbo setup.

89.99 is freaking awesome dude. DO EEET! VG33 is the best thing I have done to my truck drive-ability wise.

I got mine from buying a rusted out 96 r50 from eastern canada with no papers. went halfers with a buddy and got the truck for 400$ including toe. split the cost half and half I took the engine he took the rest. 200$ for the vg33 in my truck. pick-a-part in chilliwack, when engines are on sale, go for 139.99. so that's where we got the second vg33 that we put in my girls truck. hers was even from a 1999 pathfinder and it was uber clean. so far 340$ for 2 good shape vg33s . you can get them cheap if you look around!