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88pathoffroad

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Everything posted by 88pathoffroad

  1. Nope. I left them on so I could see what the mileage would do and then the trans died on me, so I'm still waiting for the extra $$$ to get the rebuilt trans put together and in.
  2. I'll see if someone can't get ahold of him. I have contacts.
  3. Aside from needing a tool to torque and sometimes loosen the wheel bearing locknuts, sure, it's an easy job. A Chilton's should have all the info you need in it.
  4. I see beadlocks all the time on the road over here. Why would they be illlegal? That's crazy.
  5. That's the PCV tube, and I bought new studs at an auto parts store from their generic hardware bins.
  6. The problem with that is the more they stick out, the more they will rub and the more fender you'll have to trim off to make the fit right. Stick closer to stock backspacing and it'll work a lot better. Stock BS is around 4.5" IIRC.
  7. You can still use self-tapping screws to screw them down with.
  8. That kind of thing is easy to do if you're familiar with wiring at all. Simple wiring modification.
  9. The EGR tube in the intake manifold. The PCV tube is nasty as well, usually. To P&P the TBI it needs a complete tear-down and removal of the injectors, etc. with new gaskets. It doesn't get ported all THAT much, but every little bit helps.
  10. That'd be cool as long as it doesn't stick out too far. I like prerunner stuff.
  11. Hit 'em with some PB Blaster first!
  12. Swampers will go as low as 6 with hardly any sag. It's ridiculous. Hehe. On hillclimbs in sand, tire pressure makes a WORLD of difference. I was having trouble going up a hill in sand at 12 psi, so I went down to 8 and did the climb again and made it. No change in approach length or gearing.
  13. You may have to check the wiring for the rev sensor from the trans up. If they did something wrong it may have been pulled out of it's socket somewhere. It seriously just sounds like the rev sensor isn't giving any input to the ECU.
  14. The auto SUCKS in sand. It's good on rocks and for slow climbs, though,. You can ride the brake and the gas at the same time for that 'delicate feel' we all need at times...
  15. lol! I used a block of scrap 2x4 on top of the jack to prevent the jack from possibly denting in the floor of the body. Be careful when lifting it, though. Go slow so it doesn't slip out or fall off the jack. That would be bad.
  16. I've got some. They came off my wrecked 89. The tubing is heavy-gauge and the flanges are halfway decent. The y-pipe sucks BAD though. Apparently they just blow a small hole through the tube with a torch before welding the other one on top for the 'y' bit. You might look into modding or replacing the y-pipe if it's in the same shape mine was, but otherwise they're a fairly good design, equal-length tubes and all. I'm not hooking up the EGR on mine, so no idea on fit for that, but the EGR tube is bendable if you're careful.
  17. I hear quite often about those going out. It seems to be a weak point in the gauges. You may have to swap gauges to get it working again.
  18. Hmmmm. Have you run the ECU error codes to see if anything comes up? There's a pinned topic on how to do that in the Garage section under How-To's.
  19. Pull the distributor cap and crank it to see if it still moves. That will rule out the timing belt. Check the wiring plug for your distributor as well, just in case. The crank angle sensor inside is what fires the injectors and determines timing.
  20. Take it back to the trans shop. There's nothing you can do to fix internal problems unless you want to pull the entire thing yourself and disassemble it.
  21. No it won't. I've run 8 psi or less with no problem whatsoever in deep soft sand.
  22. If you pull the spare off, then look directly into the cavity behind where the spare goes, you'll see that it has no bottom. Cut ye a piece of thin plate to fit the bottom of the standoff, weld 'er on, and you have a small compartment to put things in. I got the idea from MrReverse on AC's forums, back in the day.
  23. I think you're lowballing it. Most people pay between $800 and $1100 for a t-belt change with water pump, seals and new accessory belts.
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