88pathoffroad

Whatever it calls for in the owner's manual....have a look. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5410

Well, if you go around a corner and the LSD makes one tire chirp by itself, that'd be a bit touchy. I highly doubt it'll do that to you, but that's what I meant. Most of the time straight GL-5 will make an LSD work BETTER.

A MAJOR flaw that mine doesn't have. Nor do any of the other Pathfinders of all years in the two local junkyards I've been to...

Check your ECU error codes. There's a pinned topic in the Garage section that tells how to do that.

Stop by where? You've got no location info in your user profile.

Use two sets of Fel-Pro gaskets and try using two lock washers on top. I hear good things about that method.

Hey, thanks. Yeah, I was looking through stuff at the junkyard and said, "what's wrong with those coolers?" Not a damn thing, they work perfect and the equivalent would cost me $40 for ONE at the parts store! There are no guarantees that a cooler will fix your problems, but it's definitely a step in the right direction. Just an FYI, there are OTHER small screens inside a RE4R01A that aren't accessible to you from underneath, so there's more than one thing that can clog up. I've heard that some people have had good results using the Lucas Oil additive for transmissions with a slipping trans. Not that it'll fix anything, but it seems to help.

*watches zack beat the dead horse* Isn't that thing past it's prime?

Sounds about right to me, and you don't really have to put additive in for a LSD unless it's real touchy around corners. Regular gear oil will work just fine.

Then pick a forum and post a poll on one and link everybody to that. lol

The setup I have is simply a 3" Trailmaster body lift and Superlift UCA's in front with Sway-a-way torsion bars and modded Jeep Grand Cherokee .58" coils in the rear with 1.5" spacers. The horror stories about bodies flying off are from old Jeeps and Chevys that had rusty bodies and too-small bolts holding them on. I've heard of several people hitting the front end hard on the ground with their Nissan and shifting the body forward from it, but no stories of a body lift causing a wreck by letting the body come OFF. Not even close. Rough Country upper control arms and bushings: $160 Reindex stock torsion bars: free Jeep Grand Cherokee .56"-.58" coil diameter front springs from a junkyard: $20-up($70 a pair new from Schucks, IIRC) New shocks, stock length in front (suspension travel does not increase with an IFS lift) and 1.5-2" longer in rear: $40 each for Ranchos, you can get whatever you want though. 4WheelParts.com sells Pro-Comp ES3000's for $130 a set(for 4 shocks) when they're on sale, sometimes even with an included steering stabilizer, which is a real good thing to have. Total for a 3" suspension lift kit: Minimum of $310, possible max of $390 or so. Body lift kit: $110-$130, depends on where you find it. 2" or 3" kits are available. You'll also need an alignment after putting on a suspension lift, but not after a body lift. The best part about these lifts is that you can buy parts one at a time if need be and piece it all together. You don't HAVE to buy it all at once.

I see tons of Pathfinders in the junkyard with no rust whatsoever. It depends on where you live. If you live in a salted-road area, expect rust.

It allows you to start the truck without stepping on the clutch. Make sure it's in neutral before trying that trick, though. Simply hold down the Interlock button and start it. That lets you start it in the morning to let it warm up without having to get all the way in.

Slick replaced an engine, she didn't swap in a 3.3. But yes, she is a very good asset! Go read this first... http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/february05/pathfinder/

Exactly, the stock cooler is inadequate for use at ALL. Over time it WILL kill a transmission if left in use, especially with infrequent fluid changes(which will allow particle and debris build-up in the unchanged fluid that clogs the cooler over time). Read more in the trans shift kit thread I posted: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11862 Did you know trans fluid is supposed to be changed every 30K miles or 24 months, regardless of how it looks or smells? That's something to think about if you have over 100K and have only changed it twice... Loss of reverse, burnt smelling fluid, hard shifts or missed shifts, etc...the symptoms listed in the threads above are the signs that damage has already occurred and are manifesting themselves by creating driveability problems. Experiencing an occasional missed shift or slow shifting or anything out of the ordinary are simply smaller signs of the same. Protect yourself while you still can and do everything you can to alleviate any further damage, unless you have several thousand dollars burning a hole in your pocket...it only makes sense.

You can get a screw-on cap with a pump in it or yeah, just stick some tubing onto the tip of the bottle if you can get the tall-boy style with the pointy cap. Otherwise the pump is the easiest, but slowest option. It takes a while to pump thick gear oil out of those quart-size bottles.

Look for a different free poll site. There must be more than one.

Yeah, they were for the Mitsubishi Pajero(Montero). MudJayson has them.

You neglected to add ".html" to the end of your link above. Fixed...although the ads for the freebie poll software almost completely cover up your text. Why not just post a poll here?

The only CV boots I saw on that site were for a different vehicle. A Montero, I think?

Internal problems like you describe are an indication that the transmission is dying. Install an external fluid cooler ASAP and DO NOT USE THE STOCK TRANS FLUID COOLER. The stock cooler clogs up easily and restricts flow to the trans, which burns it up and ruins it. Rebuilds are NOT cheap, they usually run from $1100-$2200.

Bump for great justice! Even tho the links are quite dead.

Yeah man, if they both have the same brakes the shafts should swap no problem.

Yeah, but the price! MY GOD! $475 a pair plus ship. For 20 HP? No way.

That's your compression rod or tension rod. Same thing. Common problem.