88pathoffroad

The Firefly was rated at 49 HP? Damn.

That's wierd. It doesn't sound like a common problem lots of people have, so taking apart the steering column cover and perhaps the steering wheel may shed some light on your problems.

Search for doing this swap on a R50. It sounds like you're quoting procedures for a WD21.

Bump for great justice. I keep thinking about this idea and never have gotten anything together that'd be suitable to give out. I have very limited photoediting software and no real experience in messing with any. Help!

I second the VW Bug. I think that's what they came rated at new.

Well, a nice Griffin 4-row radiator would be a good investment then, I suppose. Add an e-fan and take out the AC condenser and it'd probably run fine.

I cannot for the life of me imagine why it would cost you $2500 for the internals, especially if Calmini sells a complete unit for $570. Does that price include a ring and pinion and the gears? Cause your Pathy front diff already has those inside it, ready to be swapped over...

Apparently it's not as hard as some would make it seem. This guy did it all by himself in a 2WD HB truck and it works great. http://www.nissanforums.com/truck-suv/4672...san-pickup.html

Jeez, if I'd have known they cost $100 I wouldn't have cut the good one off the 89 and tossed it. I could have sworn they were cheaper than that.

I think I'd have to try both tires in the same exact spot to find any difference. I noticed a lot more grip from the wider tires when offroading on dry rocks and dirt.

That appears to be the right one, but be aware that the case is totally empty and you're still going to have to buy clutches, friction discs, springs, all the internals. You can get a pre-built one from Calmini for $570, ready to install. http://www.purenissan.com/r200a_lsd.htm

I dunno. Calling a 33x10.50 tire "narrow" and a 33x12.50 tire "wide" doesn't leave much room for argument in his views. I also don't think there's that much difference in contact patch pressure between the two. I notice he didn't have comparison stats listed for each width tire side-by-side for SOME reason... There's a reason rock crawlers don't use skinny tires. There's a reason Iceland trucks use wide tires. Choose the tire that fits your terrain. I don't think there's a lot of room left there to argue about why a skinny tire would be better in each situation versus a "wide" tire.

A Chevy Celebrity? Geo Metro?

Clean your MAF sensor and make sure the wiring is in good shape and plugged in all the way.

Yep, it's that simple.

I don't think there are any dedicated threads about tach problems, just people complaining about them not working and the rest of us telling them to replace their tach.

Those bolts aren't prone to simply falling off by themselves. I've never seen anyone complain about such a problem, at least.

I second the broken t-belt hypothesis. I'm sorry. It may be shooting air back out the intake cause the cams aren't moving and the intake valve is stuck open or bent.

Tape a stick to the drum and spin the driveshaft. Count the spins it takes to rotate the stick all the way around and you'll be close. Then you get to guess whether it went around 4.3 times or 4.6 times...

Cold solder joint in/on the gaugeset perhaps...

I dunno, but if they're both US-bought they should only have the two choices, 4.3 or 4.6. 4.88's were available outside the US.

Anywhere between the engine and the firewall, fenderwells or unibody. Top center of the engine would probably be a good place to start.

Yeah...before you try to start it, pull the air filter. Seriously. If the air filter's all wet and there was water in the engine, trying to start it could bend a rod and ruin the engine. If it's wet you're safest to pull the plugs and turn it over to shoot out any water that's left inside.

No idea, but it couldn't hurt. I ran new ground wires all over the engine bay on mine just to make sure everything got a decent ground.

Ditto, could also be some sort of wacky problem with the MAF sensor coming undone.