88pathoffroad

Mine hasn't made one noise a-tall. What exactly is squeaking?

On the coils themselves. Get yourself a $4.99 plastic measurement caliper at Harbor Freight and make sure...

Just a note: you don't NEED new t-bars. Mine have been stock since I bought it, just reindexed. The stockers flex better, the aftermarket ones are stiffer.

Nope, unbolt the old one and replace it.

Could be many things...shot engine or trans mount, driveshaft/u-joints, etc.

Depending on money situations, I'd do it. Anacortes is pretty. I've been there a few times when I was working in Sudden Valley outside Bellingham.

Um, I've always just taken off the retainer ring and pulled the bulbs out from the back. There's enough room in there unless you have massive hands.

I think that would be awesome and I'm going to start cleaning out my garage so I can get my transmission swapped!

I'd do it if I could find a way to score slightly longer CV's and a better UCA/LCA setup allowing more wheel travel. I think that'd be really cool.

Ratchet wrenches are your friend in tight spaces...they're kinda spendy but totally worth it. GearWrench is one brand name.

I was going to ask, JJ...how high is your front end cranked? What other parts are being used?

You would have to relocate the turbo somewhere other than a stock location and hand-fab all the parts to do it with, is the thing. I've seen a few turboed Nissans but they all involve personal fab-work and a bunch of new spendy parts... Fuel pump, regulator, injectors, exhaust, intake piping, engine computer/fuel management, turbo, blow-off valve, wastegate routing...you see how it goes. I won't tell anyone it's not possible, but it's VERY tough on a budget. Not a direct swap.

Cool beans, Jim! Good deal on the IBM job, that should help immensely, eh? We're still rootin' for ya, keep your chin up!

That is correct.

Yeah, but they're 4.625:1, not 4.636:1. Different gears.

Mine did that too a long time ago. It was the swaybar. Could also be worn-out shock bushings or a loose muffler mount or several other things being loose.

Well, it's got 4 bolts holding it on, I'd say take the bolts off.

You can get to the bolts easier through the wheel well, but taking the starter out is over the CL and out the front.

Nice! Keep spreadin' the good word, brotha!

Yeah...coilovers aren't cheap to begin with.

Dude, I totally missed the coilover part. Sorry! MHC: Jeez, man. You don't know what an SAS is by now? Not even close.

Not safely, no. You know what's wierd, my TM BL came with a longer shaft to replace the stock one with...none of any of the other kits I've seen have one like that.

How do you propose building a drop lift without relocating the t-bars? I suppose you could build new anchors and adjusters at an angle and run them at an angle, but that's a lot of extra work for not much gain.

Woooo...nice, Trailchaser! Let us know. I had a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 for a while, it worked great with flux-core wire.

The problem is that Nissan placed the fill hole too low on the case, so the gears inside suffer from underlubrication with only 2 quarts in it. They didn't fix the design until 96.