88pathoffroad

Add some Febreze after that. *sniffs* Springtime fresh!

You can look that info up on Rancho's web site. www.gorancho.com

Check your brake and CC cancel switches above the brake pedal. You might have kicked them loose somehow.

What year and engine, please...

It won't matter. They will still work exactly the same. I've tried longer fronts, there's no difference.

That's your A/C condenser.

Yep, I've heard of this too. Some Frontiers have the same problem, IIRC.

Your alternator has gone out on you. Sorry. Hey! Go score a Maxima or 200SX alt and up the amperage to 90 for the same price as a new 70 amp Pathy alternator. The How-To section has that thread, I think.

Here's some more info on the bigger MC swap from Hillclimber/Homercules on N4W.

This one? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12822 It says you sold it. ???

Yup. As long as the wiring and linkages and mounts match it should be the same thing.

I'd suggest that the time has come to start taking things apart and doing some heavy duty cleaning. Clogged EGR passages are very common, as is a rusted out or non-working carbon canister and AIV case, which may all affect idle. When it gets to the point that nothing looks wrong and you've spent that much on it, it's time to start removing things and inspecting each one to make sure they work, instead of assuming they do or they should. When I took off my TBI, I was horrified to find that the EGR passages inside the intake were completely clogged shut with black crusty carbon and deposits.

Yep, you just need disc-specific cables. The transmission and 4x4/4x2 part doesn't make a difference AFAIK.

Get a friend or assistant, then start at the rear passenger side wheel and bleed each one with a vacuum bleeder for the best results. Go from rear to front in order of distance from the brake MC. I just helped my brother do the brakes on his Chevy and it took three bleeds to get the brake pedal to stay firm.

The dizzy has an o-ring on it that keeps it seated. It just takes a bit of force to pull the distributor out. Put the rotor back on and match-mark it so you know where it needs to be when you put it back in. You're sure you can't get to that screw without taking it out? It's somewhat of a PITA to put back in, cause the gear at the bottom spins a little when you slide it back in and it meshes with the cam teeth. Make sure you mark where the rotor needs to point.

Coolness! Make sure you change all the fluid and get fresh stuff in there. If you don't have one already, install an external aftermarket fluid cooler and DO NOT USE THE STOCK ONE in the radiator.

If you already have the auxiliary external cooler(which is additional to the basic radiator cooler they all come with), I dunno why you'd need another one. Do you do a lot of towing or beat on your Pathy offroad in hot weather?

Weirdness, works fine for me.

It should be OK AFAIK. Valves shouldn't bend themselves under valvespring pressure with nothing else moving. Try using a ratchet on the cam sprocket bolt to turn it back to it's mark. Then quit touching it.

Actually, they used two different steering boxes. The 92-95's got a great big sector shaft with a huge nut and the older ones have a smaller shaft. I'm not absolutely sure about what year they changed, though.

HTML is not allowed in signatures, what you're seeing is HTML code along with your sig info. I dunno why it's doing that. Just belete the extra stuff and try again. Sorry Pickle man, it's what we have to work with. I though it was a nice step up from the old forum crap.

Well...like I said, to make any changes you'd need to remove the ECU, open it up, desolder the ROM chip and then build a new map, burn it onto a new chip, then either solder that to the ECU or get a chip seat that lets you remove the chip...

Very true. ^^^ The cylinder head temp sensor (which is what the ECU uses to determine engine temp for fueling calculations) is under/below/outside the upper timing cover on the very front of the engine, to the right of the thermostat housing. It's a real PITA to get to. The O2 sensor is directly under the driver's seat in the exhaust pipe.

You'd have to buy a ROM burner and the software for that, then go from there. To re-chip an ECU requires desoldering of the existing chip, they don't plug in. It's not easy to do.

phatG20.net has FSM's for 94-95's and up. That's about it.