88pathoffroad

The CHTS is located under the timing cover on the front of the engine block. You DON'T want to have to change that out unless you're really in the mood. You have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to it.

Yep. I have a set of the carbon-fiber Infinity speakers from a Pathy SE in my Chevy van, they sound GREAT. They're 5x7's. The door panel comes off pretty easy, but the clip around the inside doorhandle is a PITA...it snaps on around the handle, just gotta prise it off carefully with a wide screwdriver or appropriate prying tool.

Yep, bolt that puppy on and give the wheel a spin to test it out. Mine has a different hub setup than yours does...the 87-89's and the 90-95's are different, then the 96-ups all have drive flanges. I've pulled hubs off a junkyard '93 Pathy before and that's all there is to it, just bolt it back on and you're set to roll.

Either the starter solenoid wire is corroded or loose, or your battery is shot... Common problem, I hear. Do your headlights/accessories work? Couple of quotes from the AC BBS:

I had some POS little dog come after me once and actually got it's teeth into my ankle...I've never heard louder yelps after I kicked it in the ribs once, then the face. I hope I broke a rib. Stinkin uncontrolled aminals... I don't much like dogs.

Cats are not better than dogs and dogs are not better than cats, but more people in the US own cats than dogs. I strike at thee with this retaliatory dog video! http://temp.damagedreality.com/perrobush.wmv

GL stands for "Gear Lube", yes. The GL-5 is 80W-90, and GL-4 is 75W-90, generally. Different viscosity values is basically the only difference. Now, specialty GL-4 70W-110 or Synchromesh fluid...that's a whole nother thing. You can also get GL-5 in 80W-110, I think.

Nah. $7 pair of spring compressors at Harbor Freight, couple of bolts and nuts removed with a socket set, and they're out and in, no problem. At least, that's from what I've seen and heard...

You'd have to put some mighty expensive almost low-profile tires on those 17's to get 'em to fit your Pathfinder. Check the backspacing and see if it's anywhere near 4.5" or so...they may fit, but I dunno.

They're not bigger, just made of better material with slots or crossdrilled holes to cool 'em better.

Maybe it's just that you're listening too closely with the hood up. With the hood shut and yourself inside the car, you'll probably never know if they were loud or not...

Yup yup. GL-5 in the front and rear diffs, shouldn't matter if has LSD additive. Manual tranny should be GL-4 75W-90, and the t-case from 90-95 evidently uses Dexron II/III. T-cases from 86-89 use GL-4 75W-90 just like the manual tranny.

Go me! Thanks! ...and it only gets better, my friend.

MAF sensor wiring, or engine coolant temp sensor maybe...

How much did ya get those rotors for? I've been wanting some...

That's "noisy". You can hear the individual injectors opening AND closing? Wow, long fuel spray. hehehe

Gear oil in your hair makes you resistable to the opposite sex! plus it looks smooth.

Shipping on that thing would cost you another $100, heh. A used axle would be fine to swap in, just make sure your front and rear diff ratios match. A manual tranny-equipped Pathy has 4.3 gears, an auto has 4.6 gears. Then it's just unbolting stuff, taking the axle off and bolting the new replacement on.

It should be easy. And those two bolt holes are for REAL small bolts, be prepared to break one off in the drum if it's too hard to remove. To loosen the rear brake adjuster: 1. Remove small oval shaped rubber plug at base of backing plate behind the drum brakes. 2. Use a flashlight to look inside and ID the adjuster wheel. It has a thin metal stop plate slightly above and outboard of the wheel itself. 3. Use a small-thin screwdriver to push outward on the adjuster stop plate while using a larger flat screwdriver to unscrew the adjuster wheel itself. You need to turn the adjuster wheel in the direction of the stop plate, they're only meant to adjust tighter unless you're keeping the stop plate pushed off the adjuster. This should allow your brake pads to be backed off enough to loosen their grip on your drum.

Um, how EXACTLY is your whole rear axle "bad"? That'd take some real innovative wrecking to accomplish that, wouldn't it?

Argh! Not organized sports now! Stoppit! -study-

http://www.partsamerica.com

So run the switch power fom the fuse panel. Ignition-on only power.

Try degreasing everything thoroughly and pressure washing it, then you may be able to ID where the oil's coming from if you find fresh leaks after the old stuff is washed off. Oil on the passenger's side is typically just remnants from removing the oil filter that drip everywhere...

Pick a place and post your question once man, sheesh. Trying to spin back and forth between two different posts about the same thing sucks.