88pathoffroad

One thing I'd add to this is that the 87-89 Pathys have 27 spline front axles while the 90-95 Pathys have 28 spline axles, so they don't interchange. *edit* Fixed spline count #'s

No...that's what they're supposed to do anyway. I wouldn't worry about it. What you should worry about is either overextending or compressing a shock too far. That could damaged the inner rebound bumpers and blow an oil seal on the shock itself.

They all have a front differential, yes. None have a solid AXLE, no. Stealership people aren't known for being very good with facts about older models. They tend to pay attention to the new stuff they're trying to sell. The WD21 Pathfinders from 87-95 all come with a steel skidplate in the very front.

Most of the gas in Cali comes from the refineries that're actually located there. The rest is imported from overseas. A lot of it comes in through the East Bay area. So...I guess closeness to a refinery or import center doesn't have much to do with it.

They ALL have a front diff if they're 4x4. IFS means "Independent Front Suspension". They're ALL IFS, in any case..

I can't find anybody that even MAKES them for Pathfinders. I'd LOVE to have some for mine.

Give it up! pathfinderoffroad@comcast.net

That should be "96 and up". The 95's are still built on a frame platform. Totally different design.

"The file you are looking for is inaccessible. Thank you for visiting Yahoo!"

That's pretty good for the front end/diff, man, but I think what most people are looking for is something that protects the oilpan, tranny pan and exhaust. They're all still completely vulnerable.

Bah, ours has been sitting at $2.19 for weeks now. You guys got it cheap in Texas.

I'd check your charging system for one, if the lights are dimming. Have an alternator test run and a battery test. Seriously. The alternator could be putting out excess voltage and that might fry your $1000 ECU. The owner's manual for my '88 says: Pretty much a gimmie on that one, people. Something's wrong with it. You can run tests yourself on the transmission computer, essentially testing the shift solenoids with a voltmeter. Here's a picture of the test procedure. To reset the transmission computer, I believe you have to physically unbolt it from the vehicle so it's not grounded anymore, unplug the wiring harness and wait a couple minutes, then bolt it back in. The transmission computer is located in the rear of the vehicle on the passenger's side(US model left hand drive version), inside the plastic wall panel in the back cargo area of the Pathfinder. It's a gold colored shiny box about 5x6" with brackets on the sides.

Fresh pics. Looks pretty decent!

A wheel out of a 240SX will also fit. Dunno about the CC buttons, though. My CC buttons are on the turn signal lever.

They don't leave the engines in at the junkyard. Plus, I'd have to swap wiring harnesses and ECU and everything. No thank you. Too much work, too much time, too many potential problems.

Email the pictures to me and I'll host them for you for free. pathfinderoffroad@damagedreality.com

Sure, I'll just go grab one off the shelf and dump it in! I hear it's a DIRECT SWAP!

You would be cutting the blue wire, then connecting each cut end to the separate end of two more wires. Speaker wire was used for simplicity's sake because it is already made of two separate wires. The ends of the speaker wire are run into the cab to a switch, where they are connected to the input and output terminals of the switch. It really doesn't matter which end goes where on the back of the switch. If it appears to work backward, switch the wires around on the back and it will work with the switch in the opposite position. It's a simple circuit interrupt, same as any wall switch in your house. You're interrupting the path of the circuit when the switch is open, and letting it run as normal with the switch closed.

Can't tell anyone just yet. It's top secret. Let's just say that Lee from L&P Performance is helping me out on a few things and it will add at least 10 HP when we're done. http://www.lpperformance.com/Performance%20Services.htm I know, the headers are crappy, but if I get 'em for less than $100 I'll toss 'em on and keep the stock manifolds just in case. I need more power out of this thing. This is pathetic the way it sits.

I bid $75 and that's still not at the reserve. Anyone else care to bid higher? I'm not even going to use the y-pipe that comes with it, I just need the headers cause I've got an intake setup coming along that will blow the stock intake out of the water, so I need better exhaust. I shoulda held onto my headers when I still had 'em.

Needs a new starter, I'd say. It's prolly locked up.

Well, compare those prices to springs brand new from the factory. That's what they're going on. I bet new springs are in excess of $200 each.

I doubt it. Whatever gears are in it can stay put unless you really want to re-gear both diffs or replace them.

Aha! So Steve's Terrano DOES have 4.8's! See, magic DOES happen in this world.