88pathoffroad

True, but moving it back and forth slightly won't hurt anything. Cranking it backwards however, is a bad idea. *nodnod*

87-89's have rear speakers mounted beside the passenger's seats in the walls.

You have to make your own reference mark. Remove the #1 cylinder spark plug. Use a flashlight and watch carefully down the spark plug hole to verify when your #1 piston is at top dead center. Alternately, you can use a thin bladed screwdriver or piece of wire to touch the top of the #1 piston and see where TDC is by watching the wire rise and fall on top of the piston. Use a ratchet on the crank bolt to turn the engine back and forth to find TDC. When you have TDC, use a punch or scratch awl and mark where the crank gear indicator mark is pointing on the aluminum timing cover edge. Then replace your belt. The belt matchmarks should match the crank gear dot and both the cam gear dots.

"Real Tight" Heh I just cranked mine back down nice and tight after removing it.

Owie, dude. I hope that thing had an intercooler inbetween the output of the turbo and the intake of the engine to collect the broken bits instead of the cylinders and head...

Floormats or mud flaps. I used mud flaps meant for a semi truck, cut into 4-6" wide strips.

The 01 and the 93 models are SLIGHTLY different.

With the proper mods, yes. Stock shape they do OK but aren't really any better than any other unibody 4WD with open diffs. *shrug*

A-yup. Ditto.

Better yet, use circuit breakers and never have to carry fuses with you again.

No way, Yakima is.

Man, that sucks. I'd take off the interior panels and see if it's possible to just stick a new nut back inside there by hand and bolt it back on that way.

There's nothing to adding the spacers, simply unbolt the upper balljoint, lift up the upper control arm a bit, slip in the spacer, then put new bolts in the balljoint. Easy as pie.

Because the stock exhaust manifolds are simply there to route the exhaust gas away from the heads and out into the piping, not to promote better flow and scavenging of exhaust gases, thus resulting in better performance and higher horsepower output. The headers help a lot and they do work as advertised. The stock manifolds are restrictive and don't work as well. Installing a cut-out after the manifolds won't do anything but make more noise. The exhaust is still being restricted by the stock manifolds, and the lowered backpressure from a cutout wouldn't help any either. If it worked that way, lots more people would be driving around with the exhaust pipes cut off, ya know?

He's not talking about the fake resistor mods from off Ebay, he's talking about the Jim Wolf Technologies reprogrammed ECU from AC. It's a solid mod, but you really won't see too much improvement without some more serious mods like headers and a high-flow intake. And of course, keeping it tuned up and running in top shape always helps. By the way, you have to remove your ECU and send it to them for reprogramming, which can take a few weeks...unless you have a spare, that'd mean your Pathy will be undriveable for that time.

Nope, the tie rods and centerlink have pressed-in balljoints that aren't replaceable. You have to replace the whole thing if you want to correct the problem.

That was this guy, with a 4.1L Caddy V8. Almost the same size as the stock V6 for the Fiero. http://members.fortunecity.com/bubbajoexx/index.htm

Either have someone else turn the steering wheel back and forth a small amount or use your hand to twist the steering shaft while you look at the input shaft to the steering gearbox and the pitman arm on the bottom. If there's excessive play between the input shaft and the output shaft, you need to re-adjust the steering gearbox via the adjuster screw and locknut on top of it. Other than that, your centerlink could be getting looser, or a tie rod...do you still have your front swaybar on?

Check and see if the glove box light is turning off when you shut the glove box door. I hear that's a common problem as well.

That'd be worn out steering components. The steering gearbox could also need a bit of correction.

A rear diff locker will help you infinitely more than anything else in your case. Then the bigger tires, body lift and the driver will make more of a difference than anything. A K&N filter, good exhaust and properly maintained engine will keep you rolling with little to wish for unless you want more, in which case you'd better be looking a bit harder.

You're right, JmCardamone. Going bigger and doing it the right way is always better than using smaller wiring and being less safe. Running power from the battery through a cheap switch and then back out to the lights is a sure recipe for a failed switch and hot wiring, with the possibility of a fire under the hood or dash. Use a relay, definitely.

Exactly. That's how mine is bolted on. Take it off and have a look yourself.

The BDS kit is simply new torsion bars and rear springs along with new shocks. You'd need to crank up the front end, get it realigned, install the rear springs and then the shocks all around for the 2" lift. You can't safely go much higher than that without replacing the upper control arms in front to correct the alignment angles.

I think not! No post whoring!