88pathoffroad

Nope, you can cut that sucker off, no problem. All it runs is the AC compressor, AFAIK. Mine's off right now too.

Thorley headers are what you need. Pacesetter makes them too, but you get what you pay for if you know what I mean... There's really no place to run a CAI on a Pathy, unless you stuff a tube through the front fender hole that the stock airbox pulls air from. A cone filter with a MAF plate adapter works fine for intake. Advancing your timing 2-4 degrees wouldn't hurt, but if you hear pinging run a higher octane gas. You can get new camshafts, port and polish the heads and intake, etc...it's like they say: "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?"

Well, that and to have a bit of safety cushion between 4HI and 4LO, cause you can shift into 4HI while moving and NOT 4LO...

Define "live beam axle". Are you referring to a Ford TTB front D44 setup, or just a normal solid axle? There are quite a few people out there that have done a solid axle swap, most use leaf springs and a Dana 44 front axle from a Jeep Wagoneer or similar vehicle. Search around, you'll find them.

Check the speed sensor and/or speedo sending unit on the back end of the transmission. It could be unplugged or damaged.

Ok, stock 87-89 roof rack looks like this: Two outer slider rails with four roof reinforcement strips inbetween. Two sliding crossbars with attachment sliders inside them. The outer rails and ends are 49" long end to end, and the whole thing is 39" wide, end to end. The sliding crossbars are 36" wide. The reinforcing strips are screwed down with one Philips head screw at each end, the outer rails are attached with Torx screws at each end. Not the most stable setup ever invented, but stylish and it gets the job done. 80 lbs capacity according to my owner's manual. That spare tire is about all I can put up there, heh. I've seen two other styles of roof racks on Pathys from 90-95, one kind with about 2" tall outer slider rails attached at both ends, no roof reinforcement strips, and two to four sliding crossbars...then another style with low-pro outer sliders screwed flat to the roof and real low-profile sliding crossbars. I haven't felt like taking the $300 digicam to the junkyard with me, so I don't have pics, but any people with pics are welcome to post them here. All the roof racks have an 80 lb rating, from the stickers I've seen on them.

What're they gonna do, write "Unbolt old shocks, remove, install new shocks, reinstall bolts" ? It's not rocket science, heh.

That's your oil pressure sensor wire. Just splice it back together and it'll be fine.

That should be ROFLMAO. Rolling On (the) Floor Laughing My Arse Off hehe

Stock weight rating is 80 lbs, and they screw directly to the sheetmetal. I would think the 87-89 rack would be a little short on a 90-95, but I'd have to measure to see for sure.

I'll borrow some $$ from my GF or little brother tomorrow. Online order placed for one 2" and one 3" strap. $42 total with shipping. Woohoo! SWEET SCORE! Thanks for the heads up, mzextreme!

Actually, I've only heard of two people doing a V6 swap like you're thinking about. You have to either fab or replace the motor mounts, then use the adapter and then go from there. It's a totally custom job, basically. Make it work the best you can. The engine physically fits in there, yes... but you might have to move the radiator, etc.

What year's your Pathy again? I can get you a roof rack if you really want one. Want one from a 87-89, or one from a 90-up, or what? They're differently designed between years...

Gears for the rear alone are $400. You can get 4.90's or 5:13's, I forget which, from the Nissan dealership ordering from the NISMO book. If your Pathy has a manual tranny, you can easily swap out your diffs for the diffs from an auto-equipped Pathy from 87-90 or so, then you'd have 4.625's instead of 4.375's.

It'll be fine. Those boots only keep mud and water inside after a while anyway.

Holy crap, that's GOT to be a typo. No way. Dammit, and I just ran out of money, too! >.<

IIRC, the oil filter relocation kit is actually for a Ford application, the Nissan filter has the same size spindle hole and thread pitch as a Ford 1A filter, like for a 5.0. As long as you're pulling the heads, rebuild the heads, P&P them yourself if at all possible, and get new head bolts. Pressure wash your front diff!

The CV alignment doesn't really matter. They only spin axially fairly slowly, compared to road speed. I'd look at worn bushings or steering components causing the vibration.

You really can't mess with these auto trannys. If it's going out, it goes, then gets replaced or rebuilt totally. Other than that, there's no tweaking really possible.

I replaced mine when I did my timing belt. You basically have to remove the upper timing cover to get to it.

I haven't heard any input regarding brands, nor have I noticed any difference between brands since replacing mine a few times, so I don't think there's much difference. You can replace the upper balljoints without removing much, but to do the lowers you have to remove the knuckle almost completely, including the front axles.

Well, I'm saving it to cut up and build a front receiver for my Pathy right now. I'll keep my eyes open for a hitch for ya if you want.

The tension rod bushings make a big difference in caster measurements, particularly if the frame mount is rusted out or the sleeve for the bushings has wallered out the mounting hole. Check into it, changing out the bushings is a fairly good pain in the arse but well worth it afterward.

They should fit just fine. I have a tow hitch sitting in my garage that I'm not using. Want it? Shipping's gona be a killer, though...weighs like 65 lbs.

To begin with, it'd be good to know what year yours is and what year seats you're looking at.