88pathoffroad

Only problem with the PA option is that the CB only puts out 4 watts tops, and by the time it gets up to the speaker under your hood, the voltage has dropped even more. Not a good equation for a loud PA speaker...

Are you referring to chrome in general, or Nissan stock chrome items?

I disagree. The stock wiring is 18 or 22 gauge. Way too small for modern 50Wx4 CD decks with multiple 4V outputs, display faces and integrated motorized action like flip-faces or angled faces. Upping it to at least 14 gauge is a great way to ensure that it'll always work properly. 12 gauge isn't too much overkill, but it's probably more than the in-dash stereo will ever need, per se.

The grille is the first step, but you also have to get the mounting buckets for the sealed beam headlights. The sealed beams and the composite headlights have different mounting setups.

8-10 at the beach, 15-20 on the trail for me.

Simple. Remove the door panel and eyeball it. It's just as easy as it looks.

Pull the plug, drain it, then run the engine for about five seconds. It'll pump more fluid into the pan and you'll be able to drain more out that way. No, it doesn't hurt the transmission to do that.

You could have used generic vaccuum hose for the PCV valve and cut it to fit...

Does that mean it spins easily both times, or not?

Sweeeeeeeeeeet

*snicker* He didn't know the same key opens the doors... Did you get a hatchback key, at least? *wink wink nudge nudge* Boy, I hope so. Those things are IMPOSSIBLE to find!

Yes, if you really felt like it.

Your current wheels already ARE 15x7, but the backspacing is more like 4.25", I think. They'd fit OK with 3.75" BS. Mine are 4" or so.

Please type slower and a bit more completely. Heh. You'd need #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, so make sure that's where it is, not on the exhaust stroke.

Mmnope. I do see another pair on Ebay right now for $29.99 +$7 shipping, tho. I'm bidding on those first. Thanks a lot for the link, though!

There's only one PCV valve, and the AB valve just has two hoses going to it, then a single mounting bolt. Very easy to replace. The cylinder head temp sensor, now that's another whole pot of nails....it's right by the thermostat housing, on the block or head, can't quite remember which.

If they're just evap/vaccuum hoses, you can replace 'em with cut-to-fit lengths of standard hose...

Precisely how does one go about testing remote control batteries? Or did you have your vehicle's battery tested? I don't know about the stock alarm, but I do know that it's under the driver's side seat. Take your seat out and look under the carpet for the remote wire if at all possible. Yes, you can attach a longer piece of wire and run it up into the dash or wherever you want it.

The injectors aren't all that hard to replace if you have tools and a place to do it, but it's definitely not a side-of-the-street job. I had to make a special punch tool to knock the injectors loose on mine. Other than that, it's disassembly and reassembly.

Can't, it went bye-bye. AC ruined it for everybody! That is, after I altered the pics in the thread a bit... *snicker*

You cold do that, or spin the fan by hand while cold, then while hot immediately after shutting the engine down. When cold, it should spin easily, when hot it should be tough to spin by hand.

Attach it to a post through the forum. The option to attach a picture is at the bottom of the post page.

Ok. Yours looks exactly like mine. My Trailmaster body lift kit came with a longer centershaft to replace the stock shaft with. Apparently it's not all that important to the PA people. The top and bottom parts attached to the steering box and steering column output shouldn't be moved/extended. If you look closely inside the clamp, there's a flat spot machined across the input shaft where the pinch bolt goes. The bolt needs to stay there to prevent the bottom jointed shaft from pulling off the steering box. Like so: The part that needs to be lengthened is the upper shaft, at the joint of the lower shaft in the middle. Like so: The center shaft extends into the bottom jointed shaft. You'll most likely need to remove it completely to get it apart far enough...I know, it's a PITA. I had to put mine in a vise, WD-40 it, then lock a pair of Vise-Grips onto the upper shaft and pound on that with a hammer to get the shaft out of the lower jointed section. The green circle and arrow shows that the upper shaft extends into the lower shaft. The yellow rectangle is around the hole where the retainer bearing is inserted and removed. If you pull the shaft out enough, the little teeny bearing will pop out that hole as it's pulled along with the center shaft. The bearing is near the end of the shaft, so don't go much further than that... Hope that helps.

Run new wiring. Quit confusing yourself. It's easier and WAY LESS COMPLICATED.

Can you get a **GOOD** pic up on that? It's REALLY hard to tell how to advise on that when you can't see what's being asked about.