88pathoffroad

Aha, I was wrong. Plug that vaccuum line back in!

There are two types of springs used in the JGC's apparently. On the Laredos with the Upland suspension package(maybe) they got 9-coil .56" coils. The stock JGC's got 9-coil .52" coils AFAIK. I've measured many a set and only found two sets of the .56" coils, both off Laredos. And once again, the standard 8-coil Cherokee coils won't give you any lift AFAIK. It's been tried...

You're going to have to clean the engine and try to find it yourself. There are a LOT of things that can leak around there.

By the way, tractor/farm supply stores carry metric bolts of that size and length if you can find one near you. If not, let me know...I can get 14mm bolts from a place near me. They're about $3 each, IIRC.

You might want to make sure the timing belt is still intact before pulling heads....just a caution.

The skinny tire/wide tire argument has been beaten to death. What you want on snow is flotation and traction. Same with mud and sand. Lowering the pressure allows a larger tire tread contact patch and more tire surface area to come into contact with the snow, thereby giving more traction. The "cutting through to the bottom" argument doesn't hold water. The bottom layer under road snow is usually ice or hard-packed snow very close to ice, isn't it? What would cutting through to that accomplish?

Regular Cherokee coils don't do the trick. The right ones have nine coils and are at least .52" thick. You seem to have two Cherokee coils and one JGC coil there. Mine were from a Laredo as well and are about .56 thick. The spring rate difference is fairly high, from stock .50 to JGC .56, you go from 250 lb/in to 400 lbs/in. (all figures approximate) http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/coilcalculator.htm

Rears are the same from 87-95 AFAIK. Fronts are different between 87-89 and 90-95.

Um, it holds the UCA to the FRAME? Which holds your wheel, tire, brakes, etc...

Lower the tire pressure and drive slowly. Do NOT go faster than you can stop.

For the record, they're called "end links".

The only locker you can get for your 97 is an ARB air locker. Ouch, $1200 out the window. They changed from 28 spline axles on the H233B from 87-95, to 31 spline axles in the H233B for the 96-ups, IIRC. Nobody makes a mechanical locker for the 31-spline axles. You might look around nissanoffroad.net for more info.

It'd be cheaper to rekey the doors, I think. The ignition switch is screwed to the steering column with self-shearing screws, you have to drill them out to remove it.

That may depend on if there were safeties on the lift that were not engaged prior to working under the vehicle...

Doesn't ask much, does he? Um, if you want to remove the roof rack, I suggest you get up there and LOOK AT IT. Jeez. If I had a nickel...........

Welding a nut full of bead isn't a good way to get a tappable surface...I'd go with the helicoil if mine stripped out. I suppose you could remove the UCA, then cut the bolt hole out with an appropriate tool and weld in a new nut along with the new steel for the piece you cut out...

I've done a write-up on it for a 2-door, at least. http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

I think it's hilarious that nobody at the dealership can tell you what it is. That's f***ing ridiculous. Power steering pressure switch, it's in the Chilton's as well as the FSM...

Man oh man, could you TAKE a more blurry picture of it? Dude, Land Cruisers with 350 swaps are common. That's what you do FIRST when you buy one of those. The old stock engines won't take any abuse.

Removing sway bars will result in more body roll around corners. You will need to slow down more for corners with no swaybars. Shocks won't help even out the ride, no. The torsion bars in the front suspension are your friend for fixing this problem. There are a few write-ups on how to do this in the Garage under the How-To section. I'd suggest fixing your problem pretty soon before it gets worse. I've seen torsion bars break before.

Mine has a brass plug end fitting with an o-ring on the end of a hose, then the gauge goes on the other end. Screws into the plug hole, just twist the hose a bit to tension it up and it's done.

Methinks your expectations are quite a bit high. You're looking at it wrong, you don't need more wheel travel, you need to lower the torsion bars. It's been argued over and over on several forums, and the end result as far as I've seen is that aftermarket UCA's do not increase IFS travel by any significant amount over stock, even by +/- 1". That said... Increasing front suspension travel with BJ spacers AND aftermarket UCA's will result in the semi-immediate destruction of your CV joints on the diff side joint within the first few attempts at off-roading, or even driving in 4WD around curves. I guarantee it. Been there, done that, got tired of changing axles out. The joints cannot cope with the additional angles you're putting them at at that ride height. The tie rods will be next to go. If you don't want it to ride rough and bounce, lower the front end. That's all you can do with the IFS we were given. There ARE limitations. You simply can't get much more than stock travel from the IFS without breaking things, even with aftermarket parts. Besides, if all you want is for it to ride better it's not going to happen by spacing the travel out more. It's entirely dependent on the torsion bar height and by the shocks.

Bolt it right to the stand using the tranny mount holes, yeah. I dunno what size, never been in there. Sorry.

No, but it does do a wierd little "bump" thing where RPM's fluctuate between 1500 and 1700 a few times before it settles down to below 1500. Only on deceleration. I have an auto, and it never gave me any problems with the clogged EGR port. It simply didn't work. *shrug*

She was talking about the front axles. The rears are the same from 86.5-95.