88pathoffroad

Has anyone checked oil pressure manually to ensure it's still up to par? The pump could be wearing out prematurely or something.

By the way, swapping heads won't give you any extra power. The VG30 heads are all the same from 87-95. It was the FI and ECU tweaking that made more power for the car engines. The cams are all the same, too. There's been talk of swapping a 300ZX NA ECU into a Pathy for a boost, but I haven't officially seen anyone do that yet.

I have an Audiobahn 15" subwoofer that's over 5 years old and it still pounds as if it were new...

Net congestion...happens to every site at times.

Me neither, and how are you going to put a cooler on a MT anyway? No pump, no lines, no point.

Thanks, and you have to add one yourself.

Shocks have nothing to do with alignment. I'd have it checked at a shop.

*scans FSM furiously* Sorry, been lax the past few days. It's coming. The TPS testing procedure will be in there. I hope you have a digital volt/ohmmeter. In short though(quick check): 1. Remove the air cleaner and unplug the TPS harness connector(not the one actually ON the TPS, trace your wires back and find the other plug on the passenger's side). The TPS is located on the back side of the TBI. Little black box screwed to the TBI. 2. Hold the TPS connector up so you can see the terminals inside the connector. You should be looking at the side of the connector that goes TO the TPS. 3. With the locking tab facing up on the connector, check continuity using the ohmmeter function of your DVOM between the center and right-hand terminals. 4. Either use your hand to open and close the throttle or have someone step on the gas pedal for you. The resistance reading on your DVOM should change depending on the pedal position. If it does not change, you should replace the sensor.

Exactly.

I'd just tape it nice and neat and not worry about it unless it looks like it may contact anything around it and ground out.

A quick fix is to loosen the adjuster nuts and re-adjust the toe by eyeball until it rides relatively straight again. That's not a GOOD fix, but it'll get you home without tearing up your tires and messing up your steering excessively. You can also remove the bent tie rods on the side of the trail and beat it straight again with a rock or hammer. Heh. Had to do that once.

Ditto. It won't hurt anything and it WILL help.

In other words, unplug the speaker and use a digital volt/ohmmeter to measure resistance between the positive terminal and the negative terminal(should be 4 ohms). Then measure the resistance between the positive terminal and the metal frame of the speaker(should be infinite, no continuity), then the negative terminal and the frame(same). If continuity exists between either the positive or negative terminal and the frame, the speaker is defective and you'll have to return 'em for a new set.

Hey, that's better. I thought you were just talking about the door switch.

Thank you, and you're welcome. I like it too!

156K, automatic dying from either bearing failure or something else internally. Added two trans coolers at just over 115K, too little too late evidently.

The heads are exactly the same from 87-95. The intakes and some accessories are different, is all. The 92 engine won't bolt in and run in a 87, though. You'll have to swap intakes and FI components over unless you want to rewire your ECU and deal with that mess.

Hex bolts work fine on mine.

Unless you're a vehicular HVAC tech, I don't think trying to disassemble the compressor is an easy job. Usually people just get a new/remanned one.

IIRC, OEM bumpers are either black or chrome. If it's grey, I think someone painted it or it's faded.

Don't R50's already have an external cooler? WD21's are the ones with the bad internal cooler design.

Mine were all aluminum, flat top and bottom, no special shapes or features. Can't you bend over and look underneath? They should be immediately visible in front, at least. I dunno if you're going to be able to find bolts that size and length...and you can't cut down the ones in it, there'd be no threads left.

Good LORD, did you get ripped off. Damn, man.

If parts from the toasted torque converter plugged up the filter screen, tranny cooler or went through the pump and totalled that out, it may not be the shop's fault. It may have been waiting to happen anyway. Just my 2 cents worth...

I was thinking about this today, and I think mws may have hit the nail on the head...the stock airbox has a fairly large capacity for holding air. If you swap that out with a small, tight-fitting box it's going to suck most of the available air out of the intake tube right away and then not have enough to run right after you hit 1/2 throttle. Just a thought, I may be wrong entirely. You can remove the AB valve if you want, I did and haven't had any problems with it. Just make sure you plug the old fittings off well.