88pathoffroad

Mechanical fans push a LOT. More than most electric fans.

To fill stock motor mounts etc, you remove the rubber either by burning, drilling, cutting or pulling it out, then you use a jig to bolt the mount back together empty so it can be filled. Making new bushings would be easy as well, use a stock bushing for making a mold as Martin described.

Sounds like the dimmer wire for the stereo is grounded out or attached to the wrong wire for the stereo. Pull the deck and verify the wiring.

It's easy as hell. 1. Buy fan, mounting kit and thermostat kit. 2. Remove stock fan shroud and fan, then bolt the WP pulley back on without it. 3. Mount your new fan to the radiator with the mounting kit. 4. Wire it up according to instructions that come with the thermostat kit. 5. Drive. I had to trim the shroud around the fan I'm using, but it's all eyeball work. Make it fit. Plastic is very easy to trim and/or cut. That's about it.

Look for a relay on the firewall on the passenger's side, near the hood hinge. (It might be placed somewhere else, but it's the only Bosch relay by itself in there) Follow the wiring and you will have the correct fuse.

What for? Locking up your candybars and sunglasses?

After doing a bunch of searching and reading, apparently the Flexane 94 is VERY stiff stuff. I should probably go with the Flexane 80 to save trouble later on down the road. Small amounts aren't that spendy, but it's about $30-50 for a kit. Ow. Still better than $150 for 4 bushings from SLR!

Mine are 15x8.5's with 4" backspacing.

Anyone have a line on affordable castable (liquid) polyurethane suitable for making or filling stock bushings? I've been looking around but the choices seem to be kinda unclear on what I should get and use. I want to make my own diff drop bushings if possible, fill my trans mount and motor mounts, etc...

I don't remember what year, but it seems like it was 90-up or so. They're about the same price IIRC. Forums got hacked by somebody and lost three months of data. I'm just being lazy and not getting it back up. Sorry.

Wierd. Mine works OK. Do you have cookies enabled on your computer?

Yah, if you can find a 6mm helicoil, heh.

On my 89 they're marked "Stop Lamp" and "Clearance/Illumination".

Yes, that was what I was using, and apparently so.

You need to get under there and scrape off rust, poke around and find out if it's surface rust or if it's structurally degrading your frame first...then I think the only resolution is to clean the affected areas, cut out the rusted-through areas and weld new steel in, in pieces to match the original as closely as possible. Lots of people have done this to repair frame rust and rot.

Thanks, Jay. I'll work on it in a bit.

Read here for more on wiring and relays... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html I found new 9004 headlight plugs at Wal-Mart for $4 each and took them apart, soldered heavier-gauge wires to the pins and put them back together. Plug and play, baby!

You can look for a new ball stud but I'd replace the strut, especially if they don't hold the hatch up anymore. They come with new ball studs. Last one I bought ran about $28 from a local auto parts store.

Very nice! Thanks to all who contributed.

Mine just has one on the driver's side.

The power transistor should be grounded, yes. Testing procedure: 1. Disconnect main wiring harnesses for both the coil and the power transistor. Leave the t-type connector for the coil plugged in. 2. On the power transistor main input power connector, the locking tab should be facing up as you look at it. You should be able to see four tabs inside. They are numbered as follows: TAB ON TOP 1(blue)_______4(black/white) 2(black/pink)__3(white) 3. 1 is the coil's 12VDC+. 2 is the feed from the ECU. 3 is to engine ground. 4 is to the coil's 12VDC-. 4. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine. Test for battery voltage on #1. 12VDC+ should exist. 5. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 3. There should be no continuity. 6. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3 again, but the positive lead goes on 3. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity. 7. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 2. There should be no continuity. 8. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2 again, but the positive lead goes on 2. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity. 9. Test continuity between 3 and engine ground. There should be continuity. If you have no continuity where you should have it, the power transistor should be replaced. I can't find the exact testing procedure for the coil, but there should be continuity between the + and - terminals and NOT between either one of those and the coil wire output, nor the grounded base of the coil. Hope that helps.

Swapping in the Maxima 90 amp alternator is bolt-in too.

Pep Boys opened a single store here in Salem, Oregon a few years back. Lasted about one year, then they went out of business. Lame-ass place, anyway. A plumbing company bought the place(ten bays and all) and now it's a plumbing store.

The power transistor has probably gone out, but I wouldn't rule out wiring issues either. The power transistor is the little module dealie on the coil bracket. They run about $110 or so new...

Exactly.