88pathoffroad

You can fix the bushings in the idler arm yourself for $14 if you have a dealership nearby. New bushings for it are cheap and I bet that's a good part of why it's wobbly.

Actually, HB t-bars have a little higher spring rate, but yeah, 1" shorter.

The 3.3 is bored and stroked, not just overbored. Sorry.

I welded a diff with a 120 arc welder once. When the welds broke loose it made some really wonderful noises.

Gotcha! Two heads, ready to ship in a few days. *waves* Gotta take 'em off and clean 'em up, though. Want me to port them first?

Put the oil filter under the fender in the front next to the body mount. Take as many looks through the fenderwell as you can, also. The starter's right there. For a t-case shifter it's bolt-on. Dunno about the trans shifter.

Could be the fuel pump getting noisy.

I used a 4" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.

By the time the trans has that many miles on it, it definitely needs it. The problem is, as they say, that the worn out parts that are now working OK with the accuumulated crap in there and fresh fluid lacking that grit may allow things to start slipping and not working the way it is now. That's how it goes... They recommend changing the fluid every 30,000 miles, so the more often the better. People not doing it in the first place is the reason the trans wears out. Changing the fluid after it's been neglected is kind of a band-aid at this point. It's still going to wear out eventually, it just depends on trans temp and use/abuse when you drive.

You CAN run 33's with only a 3" suspension lift but they'll rub the fenders eventually. My 33x10.5's rubbed both front and rear before I trimmed more off.

Aluminum against steel will corrode both metals. It's called dissimilar metal corrosion and has to do with the electron imbalance between the two.

What for? Mine is fine in stock shape.

Space 'em up a little with washers or a plywood/particle board cutout. Or get speakers that actually fit your enclosures.

I thought timing was supposed to be 12 degrees BTDC. *shrug*

lgranch, you sure about the cams? Everything I've looked at for US Maxima/Pathy/300ZX VG30E's say the cams are ALL the same. I don't see why they would change the firing order. Here's an idea. When you put the timing belt on, was it all in line at TDC? If the crank was off by one tooth it may do exactly what you're describing.

It's turning over just fine. It's not firing, that's all. Wierdness...that sucks.

Sure. They're just longer.

There is an adapter installed in the back end of the crank on auto-equipped engines. It needs to be pulled out to use the engine with a manual. Autozone has pullers for that you can prolly borrow.

I took out the tranny/tcase together. Less bolts to lose.

5116 is the right one.

I think it was similar/the same as the California ECU. Emissions was the only difference.

5116's are about 2" longer than stock, 5112's are 3" or so...IIRC. I'd have to look it up.

Well, he can still sell the parts back to someone here if he does go solid axle. It's not a total loss as long as the parts stay in decent shape. There's no hub install kit AFAIK, they come ready to go. I'd suggest using bolts instead of the studs that come with it, though. They're 6x1.25x50mm IIRC. Look in the Warn Hubs Install thread in the How-To section for more. I can get you a pair of modded finished (read: top coil re-bent out to fit and painted your choice of color) JGC coils for $60 shipped if you can wait a week or so. There are like five JGC's out at the junkyard right now. You got a quote of $170 for two shocks?!? Ow ow ow! Rip-off alert! The 5116's are only for the rear, remember. Why relocate the filter if you don't have headers? The steering stabilizer is a good idea. I'd go with the Pro-Comp package deal, that's a good buy as long as they don't tack on $40 for shipping or some crap like that. The only thing I'd add is UCA's, $133. They're worth it and they hold their value later on down the line.

I think that's the sort of thing you'd have to order at the very least. If they can even look one up. I'd suggest a visit to a junkyard and a quick relay pocketing and retreat.

87-91 are small taper. 92-95 are large taper on the tie rods.