88pathoffroad

You need to relay the lights as well. There are no relays in the stock setup, so all the power runs from the battery to the switch and then back up to the lights. Can you say "voltage drop"?

When it's hot it should lock up. If it spins freely when hot it's toast.

Don't worry too much, the stock Nissan hubs break just as easily as the Milemarkers. I've broken two of 'em.

So you're saying that if you spray out the frame and undercarriage every now and then that's all you need to do to deter rust if you live in a salty environment? You might note that my comment had a bit in there about "rust-proofing or treatment to prevent rust if necessary."

Those prices sound just fine for dealership parts.

It was probably already hosed, just not enough to notice till you got on it. I've bent both tie rod sets at the same time just going up a rutted dirt hill. Talk about toe-in... heh

Or free at the junkyard if you can find one...

It's not that bad. Pull the valve covers and the rocker arms, then yoink the lifters. Rachel, do you have any input on lifter removal?

I've had my Lock-Right for three-four years now and haven't noticed any premature rear tire wear. I wouldn't worry about it. The fronts now, that's a different story. Damn IFS.

Here's my comment, I posted just to toss my 2 cents in. I have an 88 Pathfinder with no rust whatsoever. It seems to me that everyone that's saying "terrible design", "poor design" and "death trap" have neglected to properly care for their vehicle (or the previous owner, of course) and have simply allowed the rust to continue unchecked until it gets so bad that the frame breaks or things start falling off. Proper care includes undercarriage inspections and rust-proofing or treatment to prevent rust if necessary. If you do find rust, you CAN have it fixed before significant damage occurs and/or expensive repairs are necessary. Rust is not invisible. If you live in a salted road area and do not clean your vehicle's frame and undercarriage frequently, what do you expect? Just my 2 cents... -88pathoffroad http://npora.ipbhost.com Nissan Pathfinder forums

I think so too, but definitely replace the cam bearings.

That's a perfectly fine idea. It works great. Have a look at this project Pathy, they swapped a 3.3 into it. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php

It'll heat the diff up more if you go around long sweeping curves on the highway, but I think the tires will slip a skosh and keep it under the danger zone. Don't quote me on that, though. Depends on what you want to do with it. You can rebuild the LSD or use a Lock-Right in the open diff, either way. Lots of people want to swap a LSD for an open diff just so they can put in the Lock-Right. There is a definite advantage to having the LSD. The more traction, the better...even if you do manage to get one tire off in a place where you could get stuck.

It's a utility pole anchor with the anchor end cut off and ground to a chisel tip. My rock bar.

Oh, comment. Replace the anchor. If the splines are stripped out then it's not gonna stay no matter what, even with new bars...and you don't want to bung up new t-bars with a stripped anchor.

I haven't had time to go to the junkyard and pull a set is all. Losing your license is a giant hindrance to going places...

Retest everything with a good battery, not a recharged old one. It sounds like yours has died. THEN see what happens. Bad batteries can do wierd things to electronics.

The ECU may be waiting for the main relay to be turned on by the clutch switch or something, I'd have to eyeball the wiring diagram to see what controls what. Did you install a clutch switch with your new pedal and all? If the main relay doesn't come on the fuel pump relay won't come on either...

Sounds like a good start. It's always better to adjust or clean things first than to just go out and throw money at it and STILL have it run the same.

Sounds like it needs a bit of adjustment and tightening. Does the hood sit flush around the edges when it's closed?

They'll just read the bottle and tell you to take it up with the oil manufacturer. If the bottle says "GL4, GL5 compatible", that basically releases them from all interest in damages caused, even if they did the service.

TIG welders are hard to find and harder to use for a novice. A nice 220 MIG setup will do great! This Isuzu diff was welded up with a stick welder, no preheating. Mwuahahaha. And here's the baggie-o-bits from the 120 welded diff. I got lucky on that one, the ring and pinion escaped damage enough to re-weld it.

Steering stops or the front crossmember bolts, yeah. I'd get it aligned after you put the new springs in, it may change the way the front end sits a little after that.

You guys forgot the sweet sweet deal I got on that Pathy... Pacesetter headers New aftermarket cat SwayAWay t-bars K&N filter Trailmaster steering stabilizer Full set of Lego wheels and shot 31's Power windows, locks, everything mine DOESN'T have! 300ZX VG30E Rebuilt auto transmission (installed 3 months before it got wrecked) All for the low low price of $800? Oh yeah...I think so!

WB man. Have fun while you were out?