88pathoffroad

Not for 5000's. They're $38 each. Damn, I'd get pissed at that shop. They replaced stuff without your approval, then they tossed the old parts? That's against 99% of repair shops procedures. It is a charge-em-and-see-if-they-check-the-bill kinda thing that rip-off shops typically do. I bet they kept the rear shocks.

Rear swaybar end links? Shock bushings? Panhard rod bushings? Something's loose and has play in it...

True. It'd be real bottom-heavy tipped upside down with the heads on and no crank in it tho, wouldn't it?

The rotor only goes on one way, you'll be fine.

Rod bearings are in the bottom end, that would require a nearly complete disassembly of the engine to do properly.

I'd say either the starter is getting old or the battery is deficient in some way.

Did they give you the old shocks back? You could sell 'em to someone here and help a brotha out, maybe...

No relays, and check your headlight switch.

No, but they both run through the headlight switch.

The concensus is that oiled cotton gauze filters generally let through more dirt/dust than new paper filters. They do offer a small boost in airflow, though.

Have someone sit in the driver's seat with the engine running. Crank the wheel all the way one way and take a look under the fender at the end of the centerlink beside the tie rod. Have your helper move the steering wheel side to side repeatedly(not necessarily quickly, get the idea?) so you can watch the joints move with it. If there is slop or play in the CL joints, you'll be able to see it then. Repeat with the other side, remember to watch the idler arm and make sure it's only pivoting, not pivoting AND moving up and down. On the clunking noise, I'd look underneath for missing parts or loose exhaust, etc before assuming anything to do with the differential. Diffs don't usually just start clunking by themselves. Do you have the external tire carrier? Check that for clunks too if so.

Oooooooh, how could I forget this happening to me also? Same thing, but it was the power transistor for the coil. Apparently it took a little while to heat up and then it would completely kill spark to the engine until it cooled off. Had me stumped for a while until I had it happen at home and started checking stuff over with a voltmeter and timing light. Silly question ankana, but when this happens to you, do you know if you have spark still?

It is possible, but any coolant leaking onto the belt will degrade it and could possibly lead to it breaking again. Therein lies the rub, my friend! I used some silicone on mine along with the gasket, yes. Doesn't leak a drop.

Yeah, look under the carpet. There's a decent sized hole for the wiring.

What you need to do is install new wiring and relays for the headlights instead. The stock setup isn't relayed at all, it runs the power from the fuse panel through the headlight switch and then back out to the lights in one swell foop. Hence the dimness of stock Pathfinder headlights. The "blue-white" or purple bulbs actually put out less light per watt due to the coating on the bulb, regardless of how shiny white the beam is. Humans see better in the yellow spectrum anyway. Also, don't fall for the 55w= 110W crap, if it's a 55, it's a 55. Read up here and poke around their website for more info: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Shpiffy, man. Cool find! I might write for an online Nissan mag for allnissans.com sometime. They offered me a part-time editorial job if things pan out for them.

Or a leaking shift solenoid. If a seal went, it'd likely leak fluid through the one and affect the other solenoids. I'm not a tranny pro, though!

I was gonna say, if it runs and drives, put it back together and roll on over to Les Schwab's or a tire place and have them hit it with the big gun. If not, then yeah...take Martin up on the loan.

I've been eyeballing it. It changes every time I put it in 4WD anyway. Sometimes I have to redo toe in parking lots. PITA but better than paying $45 a pop and then having it be out of whack again within a week.

I think you're just lucky, Grant. People have snapped rear axles before, too. Now THAT takes some doing! Those things are THICK!

Ditto, ditto, ditto and ditto. Martin is wise, Martin is smart, Martin is right.

My 88 has very slight surface rust in a few places due to dunking it in the ocean, but the 89 I have has rust holes all over on the body. Driver's side floor under the gas pedal(large hole), in the rear floor behind and under the seats, and a few other places on the body. The spare tire carrier mounts inside have rusted out so bad that the nuts fell out in two places, too. I haven't gone around banging on the frame, so I dunno about that part yet.

I believe it'd be a bolt-on modification with no fueling issues, though you may want to choose an appropriately sized intercooler and do a bit of research first.

All I hear is a bunch of Waaaaahhhhhhmbulances coming to take your Pathy away... The same could be said of any vehicle you own and beat on. Things break and it's not new. Why expect perfection?

The engine runs in open-loop mode until it warms up(relying on pre-set values to calculate fuel/air ratios), then switches to closed-loop mode relying on the MAF, TPS, air temp, coolant temp and O2 sensors to calculate fuel/air ratios, spark timing and injector timing. Perhaps a combination of things are making it run that way when it comes out of open-loop mode. You can run a real-time ECU test to see if the TPS is working OK and if the O2 sensor is giving the proper feedback when it's running. Check your FSM for the procedures.