88pathoffroad

To keep it riding smooth like a car.

Tried a bungie cord? No wait, coat hanger! Yeah!

The axleshaft could have a slight burr or scratch on it right where the seal goes that ruins the seal after a while. Mine leaked a long time ago too, made one rear brake lock up every time I pressed on the brakes(fluid on brake shoes), it was terrible! I replaced the seals twice and it quit doing it. *shrug*

The 90 2-doors have the VG30E. I want one!

The steering problems start with the centerlink. It allows torsional (twisting) movement of the tie rods, thereby allowing them to move directions they aren't meant to and bending them. If your idler arm is hitting your frame, you're going to need a new one in short order before your tires are severely worn from bad alignment. The tie rods are OK, it's just the CL's movement allowing them to either hit the frame or move back-and-forth too much that's the problem. Aftermarket UCA's are simply stronger than the stock UCA's by a long way; they allow for alignment when it's lifted as well. I'd stay away from BJ spacers in general, they allow a bit too much suspension travel which destroys the CV axles. On the JGC springs, there are about ten different springs they used in those damn things, so if you're getting them from a junkyard measure them with a caliper to find the wire diameter. .54" is a common size(about 2" lift), .56" is better(3" or so), and .58" will give you 3+" of lift. Stock Pathy springs are .50".

4200 lbs - 200 lbs = 4000 lbs oops, add driver weight = 4200 lbs again Still not enough to make a difference IMHO, I think you're overestimating the weight of stuff.

Eeeh, not really. The panhard rod just locates the axle laterally and helps keep it in place. The swaybar applies pressure on one side or t'other when cornering to keep the body level.

My thought exactly. You can build a mild 350 with FI and it'll match the VG30 for gas mileage easily.

I respectfully offer the fact that I've had no swaybars for years now and no death wobble or problems of any sort, aside from wearing out bushings faster, but that's mostly from going offroad and flexing it out a lot.

Typically, the O2 sensor going out will make it run pig-rich like that. The mass airflow meter will too. Sometimes it just doesn't give the ECU enough trouble to throw an error code for it.

The junkyard I go to just has the alt already pulled and hanging on a rack, I couldn't pull brackets off anything cause the engine generally goes into the storage warehouse until someone buys it. This is true! I just meant that the alt isn't meant to do everything on it's own, that's all.

87-95's have auto hubs. 96-ups have drive flanges.

Maybe you could collaborate with Black Panther to come up with a skid idea or two.

That would work. In front of the AC condenser(if you have one) is the best place. You could stick it behind the rediator too, though.

I think that'd be even heavier than the stock frame, take a look at the thickness.

That and a tranny cooler if it's an auto...

A what who where when why how?

I really can't think of many ways to lighten a Pathfinder, most of the parts on it are necessary or don't weigh enough to make a difference. Sorry.

Ask and ye shall recieve...

I got a set on Ebay, but Mako poly sucks to order from. *shrug* Energy Suspension makes 'em too, call around to some parts places.

It won't hurt anything, but it will make the handling a little sloppier around turns. You just need to adjust to it is all. Truth be told, taking the rear one off is a better idea, it frees up the rear axle to articulate more than it will the front.

$125 for an auto is a DEAL. Most of 'em go for $700+.

Hmmm, if I had a pic of the case or the pan I'd give it to you so you could tell. Check the pinned topic in the How-To section with transmission pics, that might help. The shifter linkage should be pretty stiff, yeah. There's a spring and detent inside that gives it resistance to movement. Maybe yours broke inside and all you need is a new one! Take the pan off and see, maybe.

Ben: that's not just an e-brake light, it is the brake warning light. Check your brake fluid level real quick...

The e-fan only pulls 50 amps at startup, running full speed it should only pull 20 or less. I tested mine and the amperage drops quite a bit after initial startup. Further, the battery will supply more than enough amperage to run the fans, regardless of the alternator's output. The alternator is there to recharge the battery, not supply all the power for everything by itself. A 90 amp 240SX or Maxie alternator is a bolt-in, AFAIK, yeah. Get on it! Side note: I believe a small (1/2 farad or less) car stereo capacitor hooked to the fused input from the battery would really help on fan startup if you didn't want to swap alternators... MWS, any thoughts on that idea?