88pathoffroad

I thought the plan was simply to swap the 3.3 shortblock in and use the intake, injection and sensors for the 3.0 on it. No head swapping last I heard. And what's this about swapping cranks? What for?

Sulphur smell from exhaust generally means the catalytic converter is gone...

WTF, dual torsion bars with an add-on bracket near the front?!? Oooooohhhh. Dual rate bars. Aha. Interesting way to do it.

No such animal. No company to date has mass-produced a reliable supercharger kit for a Pathfinder from 87-95.

Check the vaccuum line for the CC diaphragm.

Not without substantial work and money invested. The engine size and drivetrain are both different. We're talking about the VQ35, right?

Point taken and indexed for later subsequent access. Thank you!

$1300 for a coil and power transistor is robbery. Are there no parts stores that can ship internationally for less? Try cleaning the MAF first. It takes 5 minutes...there's a thread in the Garage forum under How-To's that tells you how.

MOOG or Three-Five Co. parts are good. You can tell the 3-5 ones by the little oval with 3 5's in it stamped into the part. I went with generics last time and they're getting loose, but I attribute that to bending my idler arm pivot and not noticing for a while afterwards.

AC had them, Aggressive Offroad made them, I haven't kept up on the subject. Making them yourself wouldn't be THAT hard if you had at least a picture to go by and the time to try it out. Under the stock rad support is where it usually goes. You'd have to measure and see how much room there is in there or what you'd need to cut out or modify to get a good radiator to fit. A custom radiator comes to mind... AC had them, but I recall hearing that Advance Adapters quit making them. You might try calling AA to find out.

Shoot, you can pull nearly 300 HP out of a VG30 with no forced induction. The turbo 300Z's can push 400 with tuning/parts. Get cams, headers, exhaust, intake, port/polish the heads, smooth the intake, MSD/Jacobs ignition, and perhaps a modded ECU... That's the short list, hehehe. They did it with a VG33 for the Project Pathfinder on Nissanperformancemag.com. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/september03/pathfinder/

Oh, and the rear axle will take quite a bit of power. The H233B axle has been said to be on a level with a Ford 9" rear diff. Good stuff. The front, however... I'd invest in replacement CV's or a junkyard diff before trying anything too extreme with a 350 in it.

It's doing exactly what it's supposed to. The ECU limits the RPM's to 2800 +/- if either the MAF or TPS malfunctions. Try pulling and cleaning the MAF sensor and make sure the connectors are good for both the MAF and TPS.

I'm prolly going to do it that way too, the damn TC bolts are too damn hard to get to, to begin with. Whatever works!

Ah, it's not that bad, but it does cost a bit. The adapter people were talking about is to let you bolt a 350 to the Nissan transmission, not the axle. You need: A Chevy 350/4.3/whatever. If you get a modern FI engine, then you also need the ECU and some wiring to go with. A carbed 350 would be very easy, no ECU and only a few wires to hook up. Engine mounts to adapt the Nissan frame to the 350. Relocated radiator/bigger radiator. A 3" body lift would definitely help, but a 3+3 isn't *necessary* AFAIK. If you go with a Chevy tranny/t-case, you'll need to get the driveshafts modified to fit both ends. Also, you'll need to make sure you use a t-case with a driver's side drop for the driveshaft cause that's where the front axle is on a Nissan. If you can find an Advance Adapters adapter you can use the Nissan trans/t-case with the 350. They're about $900, though. Transmission crossmember needs modification to bolt to the Chevy setup. Exhaust manifolds to fit the 350 AND fit in the Pathfinder's cramped engine compartment(I guess the cast-iron truck manifolds work IIRC). I may be forgetting some things, but that's the gist of it. People HAVE done it before, but for the most part it's folks with another vehicle to drive and a lot of time to invest in the project.

Ignition switch or ignition relay, perhaps...

The throttle position sensor may be responsible for some of that. It can be adjusted, but it takes a voltmeter to accurately position it. I don't know what else to try, aside from guessing at what it might be. It's very difficult to diagnose driveability problems over the internet.

Yeah, I've run it with just the y-pipe and empty cat before, the drone drove me nuts and it actually lost some power.

Check the hot air riser flap inside the aircleaner intake. If it's stuck shut it may do exactly that.

Hi, Vsicks. LTNS, man. Sorry to hear about the smashup, but it seems you've taken care of most of it already. Allright!

How 'bout a Batcap?

I believe I do. PM me with your address and they're yours!

Try cleaning the throttlebody as well. Open it up and spray inside as best you can with TB or carb cleaner. Here's a link to a page that shows how. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=599

Dude, you spun the crank but NOT the cams? I hope the valves didn't hit anything...

Yep, the stock bushings are plastic and wear out. The more it moves, the more likely it is to bend itself...